Looking for advice about driving a portion of Bill Moore Lake to hike Breckenridge peak without a proper offroading vehicle.

I've linked the alltrails page for what I'm looking at doing. I've been reading about this route online, and it seems like the main difficulty of this OHV trail is towards the end. It also seems like there should be spots along the road to park up. I'm hoping to drive up to save some distance if I can. I have a Ford Maverick Tremor which has 4wd, a small lift, skid plate, and all terrain tires. I've been able to do about a mile on the cony flats trail and make it to the end of halfmoon lake trial near leadville.

My goal, based on what I've read, is to make it along 251 stopping near the junction with miller creek, north empire creek, and bill moore. From there I'd carry on on foot. It seems to me this should avoid most of the real difficult sections.

Has anyone been in this area willing to share their opinions?

https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/colorado/breckinridge-peak-and-mount-flora-via-north-empire-creek

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u/aDuckedUpGoose — 6 days ago

Looking for advice about driving a portion of Bill Moore Lake to hike Breckenridge peak without a proper offroading vehicle.

I've linked the alltrails page for what I'm looking at doing. I've been reading about this route online, and it seems like the main difficulty of this OHV trail is towards the end. It also seems like there should be spots along the road to park up. I'm hoping to drive up to save some distance if I can. I have a Ford Maverick Tremor which has 4wd, a small lift, skid plate, and all terrain tires. I've been able to do about a mile on the cony flats trail and make it to the end of halfmoon lake trial near leadville.

My goal, based on what I've read, is to make it along 251 stopping near the junction with miller creek, north empire creek, and bill moore. From there I'd carry on on foot. It seems to me this should avoid most of the real difficult sections.

Has anyone been in this area willing to share their opinions?

alltrails.com
u/aDuckedUpGoose — 6 days ago

A (hopefully helpful) guide to induction cleaning, or cleaning carbon from your intake port. Important for GDI engines (pre 2025) but allegedly not useless in port and DI engines (post 2025)

My mechanic had recommended that I do an induction cleaning every 20,000 miles since I have a GDI engine. He wanted 300 dollars for what costs 35 at Oreilly's. I had found basically no information about our specific vehicles online, so I'm hoping this will help someone else out!

Background: I am not a mechanic, just a guy who likes to tinker! A gasoline direct injection (GDI) engine injects fuel directly into the cylinders whereas a port injection system injects fuel into the intake port just outside of the combustion chamber. Both are fine, but carbon can build up as a result of combustion during normal engine operation. This happens with both kinds of fuel injection, but with port injection, fuel can get sprayed fully on the inlet at the cylinders. Fuel typically has a bit of ethanol which can break down these carbon deposits. For a GDI engine, no fuel makes it onto the intake valves, and they never get cleaned of carbon. Therefore, you have to do an induction cleaning regularly to prevent carbon from building up.

A couple of side notes: this is not a deep cleaning! You should notice no performance difference after the cleaning. If you have enough carbon built up to impact engine performance, it's already too late. You will need a much more expensive deeper cleaning. Also, I have heard from a few mechanics that carbon can still build up on port injected engines. I cannot find a clear answer if it can ever become a problem. The general thought I find is that it's not a worry, but there's a non zero possibility that it could become a problem. I just have no idea how real that threat is. Finally, this is important for anyone with a maverick before 2025. I believe all maverick engines before 2025 were GDI. I have the 2.0 ecoboost, so I'm not entirely sure about the hybrid. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong in the comments.

Safety: Read the instructions before using the products. You want to do this outside, or in a very well vented area. This cleaning can kick out smoke from your exhaust. I recommend using gloves and safety glasses. I got some of the cleaner on my hands, and it stung my cuts a little. If you got this in your eye, you'll be having a very bad time. The cleaner is poisonous, so you definitely want to avoid swallowing any of it.

What you need: There are other options, but below is what I used. I have no idea if this is better or worse than other options. The first link is for the induction cleaner and the second is for "cataclean". It's a cleaner for your catalytic converter (a portion of your exhaust system). It's recommended to use this after induction cleaning as the smoke it kicks out the exhaust can gunk up your cat. The cataclean is much more simple. When the fuel tank is at 1/4 full, dump the bottle in your gas tank, drive for about 15 miles, then top it off with gas and drive as normal.

No other tools are needed for induction cleaning, just a piece of tape.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/berryman/berryman-16-ounce-intake-valve-and-combustion-chamber-cleaner/bry0/2611

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/cataclean/mr-gasket-cataclean-16-ounce-fuel-treatment/mrg8/120007?q=cataclean

Process:

  1. Bring the vehicle outside, or to a well vented area.
  2. Turn off the vehicle and pop the hood.
  3. you can put the cleaner into your throttle body. I found this is buried at the bottom of the engine and is essentially inaccessible. I point out this location in the third picture.
  4. A better location is one of the many vacuum ports. I selected a port that goes directly to the throttle body. I point this out in the second picture.
  5. Disconnect this hose. There is a yellow clip holding the hose on. There are two pieces to this clip, a front piece and a back piece. You need to pull the back piece up to unlock and push the front piece down. This will allow the hose to disconnect.
  6. Cover the port the hose was connected to with a piece of tape. This will suck in air, so you don't want to get any junk in there accidentally.
  7. Set up the cleaner can. The can comes with a clear hose attached. Insert the silver flow restrictor as instructed for a 4 cylinder engine. Then you connect a blue outlet to this with a small clear tube.
  8. Turn the engine on.
  9. Insert the blue piece into the hose, not the port the hose was connected to.
  10. Keep the can on a flat level surface. You can see my setup in the first picture.
  11. I had to push the cleaner hose into the engine hose to keep a good seal. I pressed the button on the can to start flow of the cleaner, and it leaked a bit of fluid on my hands and engine. It's ok, you can just wash it off later, but gloves would be better.
  12. The can button locks in the open position, so you just hold it all together and let it run until it's empty. You will see the cleaner flowing in the hose and see when it stops. It took about 10 minutes.
  13. Shut the engine off and let it sit for about 30 minutes then drive around for about 10 minutes. You're done!
  14. Use the cataclean as explained above.

You may find engine speed drops or stutters while using the cleaner and when you first set off to drive after using it. This is totally normal as there's a bunch of stuff that's neither fuel nor air in your engine, so it's a bit confused. It'll sort itself out pretty quick.

Overall, it's a simple job. I was frustrated to find the throttle so inaccessable, but found it's pretty simple to use the vacuum system. It's an important thing to do with a GDI engine to maximize the life of it. Hopefully someone finds this helpful!

u/aDuckedUpGoose — 2 months ago

What would be a good replacement for a 2024 Ford Maverick Tremor mainly used for hiking and camping?

First, why am I looking to replace such a new vehicle? Well, I might actually not. It's a GDI engine, so I was trying to do an induction cleaning to prevent carbon buildup. I've experienced pretty significant issues with oil consumption in a 2014 Hyundai Elantra GT at around 70,000 miles. I'm pretty confident it was due to carbon buildup as a known issue. Due to Ford's incompetence, it seems impossible to loosen a pipe clamp on my throttle body to do the cleaning. It's butted against the engine, and I can't get a tool on it. I've reached out to a mechanic who can hopefully do better than I. Depending on how that goes, I'll see how my frustration develops. Ultimately, I just don't want to have this be a regular headache.

Budget: There's 20k mi on my maverick, and kelly blue book indicates a roughly 30k dollar trade in value (29-32). I'd like to keep within this trade in value, but could be willing to cough up an extra 5k of my savings for the right vehicle, I'm just not sure what exactly that is. Let's call the budget ideally 30k, max 35k out the door.

Criteria: I work remotely, and almost only drive for road trips, camping, and hiking often with my girlfriend and our dog. The Maverick has been great. The perfect amount of storage, 28 average MPG, just enough offroad capability for what I'm doing, and a rather comfy highway cruiser. Those are really my main points. Ground clearance and good tires are key for the rugged driving I do. I have used the 4wd a few times and was unable to progress without it. I've also scraped the skid plates a few times, so I'm happy to have them. I like how it looks, the interior layout, and I love android auto. That has become a requirement for me. I'm not a fan of crossover/SUV styling, but my current frustration is making me more flexible. I'd really like any future vehicles to be in some color.

What I've looked at so far:

Honda passport trailsport:

This seems like the closest overall to my tremor providing the ground clearance, all terrain tires, and skid plates from the factory, if I'm not mistaken as well as a similar AWD system, though I don't believe it has 4WD. The trailsport is more expensive than my tremor, so even with a few years and a decent amount of miles, I would be stretching my budget. I like the interior more than mine, and the exterior is fine. It gets a bit lower fuel economy. Not a deal breaker, but not my favorite thing.

Subaru Forrester and Crosstrek:

The Forrester seems like the closer comparison. The crosstrek is smaller and more fuel efficient. I think it will be ok on space, but could be a bit too limiting in longer road trips. Both seem to have a solid wilderness trim, though they lack 4wd and skid plates, the ground clearance and AWD systems are good. I'm not sure based on the subaru website if they come with all terrain tires. I do really dislike the styling of more recent models, particularly the forrester. I really dislike the interiors of both. The interior styling ultimately disqualified them when I initially bought the maverick. Now, I am more flexible.

I also looked at the ridgeline, and most of my thoughts on the passport apply here too. I think the ridgeline is due for an update, so between this and the passport, I'd lean to the passport, though it seems the ridgeline could save some coin.

I also looked at the newer Mavericks given that 2025 and newer has a port and direct injection engine which would alleviate my carbon concerns. However, Ford, once again, shit the bed and made the maverick way overpriced. Looking at used 2025s near me, I would be stretching my budget to get into a 2025 without any color. I have a blue maverick, and I would hate to end up monochrome. Plus, I really don't want to reward Ford for their incompetence with the throttle placement or pure DI design. I know design is always a matter of compromise, but this feels like their engineers left the brain cell at home.

What else am I missing? Something like the ranger or equivalent is a bit too much truck for my needs, and likely would blow my budget without going too old. I don't think body on frame is right for my needs, but I'm open to opinions. I'm now more hesitant than ever to buy american. Ford blew it for me with this carelessness.

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u/aDuckedUpGoose — 2 months ago

Is there anyone kind enough to allow me to use their floor jack and stands Friday or Sunday?

I need to do some induction cleaning for carbon buildup in my car, and my apartment doesn't allow oil changes and stuff, thus I no longer have these tools. I need to access the throttle body, and Ford was dumb enough to bury it at the bottom of the engine.

I anticipate the job will be about 30-45 minutes, but should be no longer than an hour. Famous last words!

I'm going to try and access it from the top. I think it should be doable, but I'd love to have a backup if there's any extremely kind strangers out here!

My mechanic quoted me 300 dollars for what is a 35 dollar bottle of cleaner at O'Reilly's. I might be able to shop around, but I doubt I'll find someone to do this for less than 100 dollars, so I'd really rather do it myself at this point. I should've checked where the throttle is, but it's always been right on top of every car I've ever owned. I had just assumed there'd be more than a few brain cells at Ford, but it seems they didn't really think maintenance through.

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u/aDuckedUpGoose — 2 months ago

I could use some help with roasting a brisket later today. How necessary is trimming the fat? what's a good internal temp to target? Does it need to be covered while cooking?

I've had a brisket dry rubbed in my fridge since yesterday, and I'm stoked to roast this bad boy. I'm planning to use my countertop convection oven as it did amazing with ribs last week, better than my regular oven. I was planning to do the exact same method for my brisket until I decided to look up some recipes today (a bit late).

I saw that every recipe called for the fat to be trimmed, the brisket to be covered, and cooked low and slow for about 4 hours. I did the ribs for 4 hours at 250 with a little bbq sauce and broil at the end. I figured the same method would work well with the brisket.

Obviously, it's too late to trim the fat, but in the future, would this be good to do or does it not really matter? I imagine it'll taste better with all the fat, and I imagine it won't need to be covered with all the fat. Do you think I should cover it during normal cooking then uncover for broiling?

Finally, I am (also late) realizing that the brisket isn't on the bone and the ribs were. It's about the same weight, but I probably would overcook the brisket doing it the same amount of time as the ribs. Do you agree with this, and what's a good internal temp to shoot for before I sauce and broil the brisket? Or should I just go for a time target? It's about 2 pounds of meat.

reddit.com
u/aDuckedUpGoose — 3 months ago

I could use some help with roasting a brisket later today. How necessary is trimming the fat? what's a good internal temp to target? Does it need to be covered while cooking?

I've had a brisket dry rubbed in my fridge since yesterday, and I'm stoked to roast this bad boy. I'm planning to use my countertop convection oven as it did amazing with ribs last week, better than my regular oven. I was planning to do the exact same method for my brisket until I decided to look up some recipes today (a bit late).

I saw that every recipe called for the fat to be trimmed, the brisket to be covered, and cooked low and slow for about 4 hours. I did the ribs for 4 hours at 250 with a little bbq sauce and broil at the end. I figured the same method would work well with the brisket.

Obviously, it's too late to trim the fat, but in the future, would this be good to do or does it not really matter? I imagine it'll taste better with all the fat, and I imagine it won't need to be covered with all the fat. Do you think I should cover it during normal cooking then uncover for broiling?

Finally, I am (also late) realizing that the brisket isn't on the bone and the ribs were. It's about the same weight, but I probably would overcook the brisket doing it the same amount of time as the ribs. Do you agree with this, and what's a good internal temp to shoot for before I sauce and broil the brisket? Or should I just go for a time target? It's about 2 pounds of meat.

reddit.com
u/aDuckedUpGoose — 3 months ago
▲ 12 r/boulder

I live in a condo with a rather restrictive HOA. They don't let us do any bike washing or maintenance outside. I actually know someone who got fined for doing this. I used to go to Cassiopia to wash and lube my bike, but now that's not an option.

I believe community cycles has a place I can wash my bike, but I'm pretty sure that's for members only. I don't think membership makes sense for me since I already have a decent amount of tools, and most bike jobs are clean enough that I can do them inside my place with a bike stand. Cleaning is the only thing I really can't do here.

Is washing it in my bathtub my best option? Is there somewhere similar I can go? I don't mind going outside of boulder if I have to. I don't think my bike even fits in my tub, but I haven't really tried yet.

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u/aDuckedUpGoose — 4 months ago