u/aFinapple

For a whole year, a whole YEAR, I’ve been driving with the wrong set of tunes on my 6.0. The initial set I got did good, but the trans was having issues downshifting. I also didn’t know (at that time) that I had a weak fuel pump, multiple high pressure oil leaks at higher pressures, a weak HPOP, and incorrectly setting the tire RPM.

Before I figured any of the above out, I asked them to modify the shift points of the trans, and the new tunes did just that. But ever since, it always sucked at towing. All of my power was collected in the bottom 3/8ths of the pedal, and anything more than that it would just rev. That’s what led me to find and replace parts that tested bad, but the issue still persisted.

So, just for shits and giggles, I found my original tunes and loaded the hottest one, and man oh MAN is my truck a different beast. It hooks up, doesn’t lag, turbo spools like a motherfucker, and the transmission shifts even better! So I called and asked about the new set that I had, and turns out, they got them mixed up and gave me a set of tunes that weren’t meant to drive with, but to test with, but said those were the final tunes.

Speaking of which, my SCT tuner actually wouldn’t set tire RPM no matter what I did. I ended up using Forscan to set the tire RPM in the ABS module, and that fixed most of the shifting issues before anything else was figured out.

So, moral of the story is, it’s almost never a tuning issue, it’s because you have something else going on, especially on a 6.0.

But now, with 155/30 injectors, a different compressor housing, ODAWG intake, 80 HP ficm tune on ARP 2000s lets you make 32lbs of boost, and it locks down and conquers hills with a 10k trailer like no other. Oh, and my EGTs dropped and my fuel mileage went up. Just make sure you have a good oil cooler and flush everything so you don’t have to do it twice

I bought a 6.0 around this time last year. I got a smoking hot deal on it, mainly because it needed work, like injectors and suspension work. Came studded with ARP 2000 head studs, but no receipt on the work. Can clearly see it’s been studded, engine was removed because of marks on bolts and how little oil it has on the block for 200k miles. It was barely running when I bought it and wouldn’t move under its own power.

Bought it, fixed it, and drove it. I’ve driven it every day for the last year, and after fixing numerous coolant flow issues, bad parts, shitty work, and everything in between, I’ve noticed it starts venting out of the cap after long drives. I’ve replaced the cap 3 times hoping that I had some bad caps. Recently, I drove it down to the beach (about 3 hours one way), and noticed the longer I drove, the colder my coolant temps got. I thought my thermostat was stuck open, but I just discovered that my thermostat hangs open when it starts to vent coolant out of the degas bottle. I believe that the pinhole leak develops under moderate boost when the engine has been heat soaked for 45+ minutes, and it’s adding pressure that has to be vented and the thermostat spring is weak enough to be overcome by excess pressure. I have no idea if the heads were o-ringed, if the heads were decked properly, if the head bolts were torqued properly, but it looks like I’ll need to pull the heads soon and re-seal them.

Thoughts?