Looks like the shit hit the fan over in Tucson at Jim Click Nissan, we’ve all been complaining about how screwed this industry is and they’re putting their foot down . It was only a matter of time before people Strikes, we’ve been saying since the beginning we need a Union, look at this
Needless to say; I drove it 200 ft and realized it was a low boost condition. I don’t think that I’ve seen a turbine failure like this. I thought it was neat.
Edit to clarify: This is the hot side of the turbo. ‘20 Mercedes Metris (USPS rural). These things see an insane amount of very fine sand/gravel in our area.
I guess it's not exactly "lifetime" as advertised 🫠 Good thing I sorted it out during warranty.
Customer is me. Had a weird issue where boost was fine most of the time, but when it was hot outside and after waiting at a light I would have no boost. After driving for a minute it was working fine again.
Turbo is an IHI VL38, this is common apparently.
new customer. 2018 Chevrolet Trax, 69,000km, 1.4L ecotec. Would love to know how long they ignored the engine rattle other than “long enough to wear grooves into the one timing chain guide bolt before it broke off”
No matter what the customer says, the extra fluids they keep in the vehicle will point you toward the problem.
Customer states: It's not using any coolant, the clouds of white smoke and empty coolant would disagree with their statement.
This little thing helped punch a fan into the radiator and wreaked havoc on the axles
Just waltzed right in at 5AM
160K mile 2015 Acura MDX front downstream O2 sensor is rubbing against the oil pan. Not sure if it's a possible aftermarket oil pan issue. Exhaust system appears to be factory. Doesn't care about the nasty transmission shudder in almost any gear either.
2013 Subaru Legacy (2.5L boxer of course), $35 hose from the dealer. Slipped off like it was buttered. Original diag consisted of doing a pressure test, filming from somewhere, seeing coolant squirt out from behind the alternator (mounted in the center of the engine, away from the heads) and declaring it was from the head gasket.
So I had a customer with a 2018 3.5 ecoboost f150 with a leaking oil pan who wanted a new oil pan installed, he had the OEM 2 piece plastic pan and wanted to go into the full 1 piece aluminum pan. I agree. Do the job. Everything goes as planned and I go to test drive the vehicle. I notice a slight oil leak from between the bell housing and middle of the rear of the oil pan, it only ever leaks after being driven and even then it’s a very slight leak. The customer says I should have know it was leaking and that I should now fix it for free. I’ve tried explaining the rear main seal is not visible and hidden away and I’d have no way of knowing it was leaking aswell since his oil pan was such a mess. What are your thoughts on how I should handle this situation as he’s threatening to sue me for “scamming” him
Benz, so it would kill the cylinder once it happened enough, but it actually just stuttered on accel.
Car came in for a pretty routine check. Nothing crazy going on, drove into the bay fine and I wasn't expecting to find much.
Plugged in the topdon scanner and ran a full scan before getting into anything else.
Well... apparently half the car disagrees.
Topology came back looking like this, just red everywhere.
Cleared everything, restarted it and took it for a drive. Gonna run another full scan and see what actually has the nerve to come back.
Always fun when the car looks completely normal until you plug a scanner into it.
Subaru Outback. Came to my shop in Maryland and customer stated that oil light was on. During inspection, I found that car has no oil on dipstick and after lifting up the subaru, and found that drain plug was loose and under torqued. Almost threaded out. Ended up redoing oil change and engine runs fine afterwards.