My 99 super duty is leaking water into the interior. It seems to be doing it when it rains. Thses pics are from a few weeks ago when we had torrential rains. Now it's been sitting for about 10 days and is leaking again. I check the AC evap drain and it's not plugged. Is it possible for it to come through the fresh air inlet?
I bought a 6.0 around this time last year. I got a smoking hot deal on it, mainly because it needed work, like injectors and suspension work. Came studded with ARP 2000 head studs, but no receipt on the work. Can clearly see it’s been studded, engine was removed because of marks on bolts and how little oil it has on the block for 200k miles. It was barely running when I bought it and wouldn’t move under its own power.
Bought it, fixed it, and drove it. I’ve driven it every day for the last year, and after fixing numerous coolant flow issues, bad parts, shitty work, and everything in between, I’ve noticed it starts venting out of the cap after long drives. I’ve replaced the cap 3 times hoping that I had some bad caps. Recently, I drove it down to the beach (about 3 hours one way), and noticed the longer I drove, the colder my coolant temps got. I thought my thermostat was stuck open, but I just discovered that my thermostat hangs open when it starts to vent coolant out of the degas bottle. I believe that the pinhole leak develops under moderate boost when the engine has been heat soaked for 45+ minutes, and it’s adding pressure that has to be vented and the thermostat spring is weak enough to be overcome by excess pressure. I have no idea if the heads were o-ringed, if the heads were decked properly, if the head bolts were torqued properly, but it looks like I’ll need to pull the heads soon and re-seal them.
Thoughts?
Hey everyone,
I'm chasing an oil leak on my 1996 F350 and I'm 99% sure it’s the oil pan gasket. Because of that, I’m planning to pull the motor this winter to fix it right. I don't mind the extraction labor—I've pulled a 7.3 before—so the absolute plan is to flip the block and reseal everything using Motorcraft TA-31.
Since I'm buying parts and prepping ahead of time, I have a couple of questions for the group:
Appreciate any advice or feedback from those who have done this!
This is an update, I posted about a week or so ago saying my 2004 f350 was having a hot no start. You guys recommended starting off with a pressure test so I went ahead and did so. I went through my ipr valve and pressured the system, pretty quickly without much pressure on it I heard it. I used the redneck stethoscope everyone recommend and I'm pretty sure it's coming from under my turbo, where the hpop is I believe. Furthering my theory I heard a bit of bubbling and you can tell from the video there's a large amount of oil sitting down there. The main reason I'm posting is I've summed it up to the j joint on my hpop but I want to hear you guys professional opinion before I start ordering parts. Is there further testing I should do? Can I be certain that's what it is based off the location of the noise? Thank you guys in advance.
Just changed my oil and cleaned the map sensor, now my gage the the turbo is almost all the way up. Everything is running normal. Anyone else have this issue. What's my next step
I inherited this 1997 f-350 7.3 from my father. It’s been sitting for 23 years, but only has 43k miles on the engine (Father had it replaced 24 years ago after it got rolled)
Anyone here have advice for me? Or has anyone attempted to restore one of these before??
2000 f250 7.3 no crank no start turn the key and looses all power, checked fuses no issue, checked battery's around 12.15 volts each and 12 bolts across the fender mount starter relay any help would be great
As in the title, I have a hydra chip that tunes the injectors. For smog, setting it to 00 on the selector, the trucks runs terrible. I haven’t fixed a tune that runs it really smoothly, a little lower on the rpm’s and reduces the smoke to 0. For the California smog folks, would that program (not the 00 one) pass the OBDII portion? I’ve heard conflicting things saying that they will be able to see the fuel trim levels vs stock settings TO our pcm’s aren’t advanced to provide that through the obd.
Any one know the truth to this?
This has a lot of condensation and dripping a bunch had it running for maybe 30 minutes before turning off
While running errands today in this scorching East Coast heat wave, I had the A/C on max with the fan at the highest setting. The truck suddenly stalled. I switched the A/C to regular mode with the fan on level 2, restarted it in neutral, and it ran fine afterward.
The O/D light was flashing immediately after the stall but eventually turned off. All of my fluid levels and engine temperatures are normal.
One other thing worth mentioning is that my rear differential has an occasional slip and has a small leak. I’ve been keeping it topped off, but I haven’t checked or added fluid in a little while. I already have a complete rear differential rebuild planned.
Could running the A/C on full blast have put enough load on the electrical system to cause this? When I scanned it, I also got codes for the input and output speed sensors. I replaced both of those sensors a few months ago, so I’m not sure if they’re related or if they’re just a result of the stall.
Any ideas on where I should start looking?
This started last night - cranks, starts and then just idles in this painful manner. I’ve tried unplugging ICP sensor and IPR sensor. ICP sounded slightly different unplugged, but not better. It evens out a bit as I press on the gas pedal (which I do in the video), but not completely and it gets shaky again past 1000 rpm’s. I’ve also tried it in neutral to test for NSS.
Today, I changed the oil and filter and threw in some archoil 9100, as well as drained and put fresh oil in the hpop. Just to make sure it wasn’t my GPR I manually heated them up via pliers to poles.
She started right up, sounded great for about 10 mins while I drove around, and then right as I got home again it lost most power and I shut it off in the driveway. When I started it up again this painful lope repeated.
Pliers to poles didn’t do anything when I tried again, fuel bowl has fuel in it. I don’t have a scanner yet so I can’t hook it up unfortunately. This has happened before intermittently, just can’t figure it out. Any help appreciated, thanks all.
Hey all, I'm going to look at a 2005 f250 with the 6.0 in it. What common issues shoukd i be looking for, the seller has it priced well under market value and so I want to make sure I'm not getting shafted. The truck has 140,000 kms on it, has an automatic transmission and is 4x4
Should I be running 15w40 5w40 does it matter?
Have this knocking noise on my 6.7 Powerstroke any ideas on what it is?
got a 1994 F-250 XLT, factory air, 4x4, 5 speed OD tranny, and a 7.3. VIN sticker reads 04/94 so ive been trying to figure out which 7.3 it is. Seems to be the earliest of the 7.3 PS. Grandfather bought it years ago for $4k, to our knowledge the only thing wrong is a bad flywheel but its been sitting for over a decade so who knows whats wrong now
Alright, I’m posting this here because I am completely stumped and I can find nothing on the internet that marches my symptoms
I have a 2017 6.7 F350 crew cab long bed. Love this truck
I have had a problem since I bought it where anytime I’m towing up a hill, my oil temps rise to around 230/235 and my coolant hits about 215/221.
I am not towing particularly heavy loads, maybe 6000 pounds but it’s always on a relatively steep incline. Today it was the inclines between Phoenix and Flagstaff.
As soon as my coolant hits 215ish, my engine derates and I lose power. I have nothing, fan kicks on but it gives me no power even when the temps do decrease. I usually have to pull over and wait a few minutes idling to allow the truck to cool down between 200 degrees for coolant before I take off and the same thing happens a few minutes later.
Initial thought was: oil cooler. So I replaced that with a BPD one. No improvement.
Bought a Mishimoto radiator. No improvement.
Bought one of those gimmick heat sink oil pans. No improvement.
The kicker is, I had a catastrophic failure several months ago where road debris destroyed my oil filter, I lost all my oil, and by the time I noticed I had a spun main bearing. So the engine was replaced and in doing so I also deleted the DPF and I have a mild tune on it.
But I’ve had the same issue with derating before and after the tune/delete.
I have absolutely no idea what the issue could be. I am constantly getting passed by similar trucks with heavier loads, I can’t explain why I’m having these issues.
Anyone have any thoughts?
My hubby just bought a new toy and I am trying on the downlow to find a repair manual for it. Does anyone know where one might be found?
Thank you. And he is so happy to have this truck.
I’m doing uppipes on my 03 7.3 what the hell is all over my manifolds and how do I get that nut off
Randomly happened one morning, don’t drive the truck much