u/archduketyler

Hey folks!

I've been tempted by a Flair for quite a while, particularly with portability in mind. I'm trying to understand how portable different Flair machines are. The 2Go is obviously the one most designed for it, but both the Neo and Classic look fairly portable as well.

What's the actual subjective size of something like a Classic? Benefits and drawbacks of each of the more portable models?

I definitely want a pressure gauge, kinda prefer minimal work in general, and do care about size and weight.

Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have!

Hey everyone! I live out in Baton Rouge, and was hoping that someone in the Lake Charles area can answer a very odd question - is the soil fairly dry out there right now? There's an outcropping north of Lake Charles (Wolf Rock Cave) that is climbable for any rock climbers out there, and I'm hoping to try and do some climbing out there potentially tomorrow, and climbing on even slightly damp rock is a huge no-no, since it can break the rock.

I found some rainfall data that shows it's been dry for nearly a week, but the rock is in a forest and can stay damp for a good while, so I was hoping someone out that way could tell me if the soil is pretty dry about an inch or so below the surface (not under grass, but under bare soil or so).

If anyone's able/willing to let me know what the soil moisture is like out there, it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for answering a very odd question, lol.

Cheers!

Hey folks!

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I'm struggling a decent bit lately with colors in darktable, especially since the last couple of updates. Not sure if the updates changed something, or if I'm just trying to process more complex photos, but I've got some questions I'd love help with.

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Long story short, I've had lots of photos lately where there's a fairly strong color cast, even after applying the color calibration eyedropper to the whole image (in cases where there's no real neutral color to reference). The biggest culprit has been a big yellow cast across the image, in particular.

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I've tried correcting this in two different ways via white balance, one using the temperature and tint sliders in the White Balance module, and the other using the hue and chroma sliders in the Color Calibration module.

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I've also tried messing with the 4-Way sliders in the Color Balance RGB module, and using the Color Equilizer to reduce individual colors (maybe a clunky approach, but occasionally works).

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There are a couple of issues I'm having, I think.

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One is that I really struggle to understand how the Temperature, Tint, Hue, and Chroma sliders impact the RGB color of a photo. Like, I'm struggling to target yellow or some other color cast by using those sliders. They all seem so interrelated, and I'm not having good success with finding guides or explainers on how those sliders work. (And any guides on color correction are usually much more basic scenes with even lighting.)

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Another issue is that I'm really unsure of which modules I should even be trying to use for all these things, and when the order of modules does and doesn't matter.

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I am also deeply confused by hues being represented by an angle, though I can probably find guides on that?

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Oh, and I've also tried the Color Correction module, where you drag the pointer around the color space, but I'm having a lot of trouble getting that to really do the job either.

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I'm kinda just stuck and I'm struggling to find good resources that go over the basics, particularly in darktable. And the more basic resources I have found are processing simple photos with fairly uniform lighting, which is very conceptually different for me from photos I'm working on, like dim indoor lighting with multiple, different light sources.

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I'd really appreciate any help here! Thank y'all for reading such a long request!

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Oh, as an aside, I also find it deeply confusing that there's chroma in the Color Balancer module that's similar to saturation, but it's super different from the chroma in the Color Calibration module.

Hey y'all,

I asked a while back about the different "looks" we associate with various film stocks, and a lot of the answers boiled down to the colors basically coming from the scanning/processing process, not the film stocks themselves - as in, Kodak Gold looks like Gold today because labs scan them to have the Gold Look.

But I guess I'm still kinda left with a question here, which is more or less, if the way we scan the negatives is what determines the colors, not the film stock, then why are some stocks like Ektar really rough on skin tones, and others are great? Like, there must be some sort of inherent-to-the-film quality there that's separate from scanning/processing, right?

What am I missing here? Is it that there is some amount of inherent bias towards a color palette for each film stock, but the more important thing is usually decisions made during scanning/processing? Or are these film stocks better suited to various uses purely because labs (and the community as a whole) have basically decided how each of these film stocks should look after scanning?

Thanks for any insight here! I do understand that a ton of work can be done in the darkroom and during scanning, and that negatives are like RAW files, and so on. But I'm also trying to understand what is and isn't inherent to a given film stock. Are the only inherent qualities of a given film the grain size/structure, base contrast, and light sensitivity? Or is there other stuff going on?