r/AnalogCommunity

Ran across this during a google search, had to share it!

Hello everyone!

I got a new to me OM1, and I was wondering if this is normal. When I take the film advance lever off the rest position i feel a click almost, like it’s caught on something. If i apply pressure upwards it doesn’t do that.

Just wondering if this was normal, the advance works otherwise. Please see video for sound. Thanks!

Just picked up an incredible condition canon F-1 1980 lake placid winter Olympic edition. Took it out for its first roll of film while trout fishing this morning. No fish but got some great pictures!

Here’s a video of a great condition f3 I’m considering purchasing.
They described some small dust in both the lens and the viewfinder. Otherwise great shape.

I’d like an experienced opinion to take a look at the video and give me an opinion please.

Will this dust affect the photos or image quality in any way?
Can the dust be cleaned during a cla? I prefer a clear viewfinder if it’s practical.

Lastly, is there a good camera shop in the US that does good work cla’ing nikon f3s? Near Tennessee.

The camera has been sitting for 30-40 years so even in great condition, I’ve been told grease and seals should be cla’d

Thank you for your input.

I’m pretty excited to shoot all these! I haven’t seen much on Lucky 400 Colour as It’s a very new emulsion and not available in the US as of yet.

Any tips you guys might have on shooting any of these?

Pretty excited to test out this gear! Anything I should check before using it? It’s been untouched for a long time but well stored. Should I change the light seals before using?

I noticed that some of the photos I shot on Kodak ColorPlus 200 came back from the lab looking really warm—the blue in the sky had basically turned gray. Do you think I messed up the exposure (it was a very bright day), or could my lab have done something to the colors when scanning the negatives? I didn’t ask for any color correction - just asked for the standard development service.
For comparison, I'm including a photo I took with my Pixel 6a that same day.

In case it matters: Minolta-x700 with a Minolta 35-70mm f3.5. I shot everything in manual mode, but I can't remember the exact exposure settings.

Found a ridiculously good deal on this body on eBay, decided to take a chance. Meter and shutter speeds all seem fine, body is in fantastic shape considering what I paid for it. Got a roll of film in it now, waiting to see the final results.

Bought myself a Konica C35 V the other day from marketplace for $90 AUD. Haven’t used it yet as I’m waiting to change the light seals, but I’m wondering how many people have used it? I’ve heard lots of good things about the C35 line but haven’t heard really anything of the V version. Different to the rest it’s got some focusing rather than the rangefinder system on the others so I’m curious how I’d go hitting focus.

Thanks!

Welp, quite the difference in color. I was hoping to keep it all in Silverfast, but it looks like I'll be scanning the negs and converting in LrC.

I much prefer NLP conversion, obviously still needs some editing.

Scanning with a Nikon Coolscan V ED.

I’ve been working on my own film drying clips because the vintage/professional ones I found are surprisingly expensive, especially if you need a lot of them.

I’ve never actually handled the originals, so this isn’t meant to be a replica. I looked at several different film clips and spring clamps, studied how they work, and recreated the mechanism based on photos, research and engineering assumptions.
The goal is to have one single clip geometry that works for both 35mm and 120 film.

The clip uses a metal hinge pin, torsion springs and mechanical stops to limit the opening and protect the spring.

For 35mm, the idea is to cut off the leader and use the existing sprocket holes to grip the film.

For 120, the clip currently makes small holes in the film about 5 mm from the end, in the part that would normally be trimmed off anyway.

They’re also intentionally quite heavy so they help keep the film straight while drying. The printed body is around 34 g, plus roughly 5–10 g of metal parts, so about 40–45 g per clip.

I’m still refining the design and would really like feedback from people who regularly process film.
Does this gripping method make sense?

Would you change anything about the jaws, spring force, hole position or weight?

Anything else to take into consideration that might be useful to add to the final design?

If there’s interest, I can post more CAD screenshots and prototype photos.

EDIT: Just to be clear, these are NOT for sale. The idea is to release the files for free once the design is finished. I just wanted to get some feedback from people who actually develop film before releasing them, to make sure I’m not overlooking anything!

Hi all,

I’m after some advice please.

Ever since seeing some analog cameras converted into lamps at a craft market, I’ve had the urge to get one and start taking pictures. The reasoning behind this is that I need a hobby to get my arse out of the house.

I have no knowledge what so ever of any of the below cameras (or photography) and would appreciate being pointed in the right direction regarding what to get. Admittedly these have been picked based off of looks…

As mentioned need to get out more and would probably photograph landscape, museums exhibits, sunsets... Basically anything you’d see whilst out and about.

Ideally I’d like something to get me from beginner to intermediate ability.

1. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/nikon-em-35mm-film-camera-with-nikon-50mm-f-1-8-lens-1

2. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/olympus-om10-35mm-slr-film-camera-with-zuiko-28mm-f2-8-prime-lens-and-manual-adapter-with-new-leather-red-and-yellow-skin

3. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/olympus-om30-35mm-film-camera-with-olympus-zuiko-auto-s-50mm-f1-8-lens-in-orange

4. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/olympus-om10-35mm-film-camera-with-zukio-olympus-om-system-s-35-70mm-f4-auto-zoom-lens

5. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/canon-av-1-35mm-film-camera-with-canon-fd-50mm-f-1-8-prime-lens

6. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/pentax-me-35mm-slr-film-camera-with-miranda-50mm-f-2-lens

7. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/olympus-om20-35mm-slr-film-camera-with-zuiko-50mm-f1-8-lens

8. https://www.vintagecamerahut.com/products/olympus-om40-program-35mm-slr-film-camera-with-cobra-28mm-f-2-5-lens

Thank you for any help / advice given!

Inspired by No Grain No Gains’ ECN-2 video on YouTube, I wanted to start mixing my own developer, mainly for long-term storage and cost reasons. I basically follow his process, but on top of that, I also mix my own bleach and fixer.

Recipes I used:

Bleach:

• Distilled water: 900 ml
• Potassium ferricyanide: 40 g
• Potassium bromide: 29 g
• Borax: 1.5 g
• Distilled water to make 1 L

Fixer:

• Distilled water: 500 ml
• Sodium thiosulfate: 200 g
• Potassium metabisulfite: 20 g
• Ammonium chloride: 50 g
• Water to make 1 L

I also use 10% white vinegar diluted to 1% with distilled water as a stop bath.

Apart from the specks, I’ve been pretty satisfied with the results. I’ve mainly been cross-processing C-41 film in it. The first time, I thought I just hadn’t been careful enough about dust, but after a few rolls and trying my best to create a dust-free environment for drying, the dots persist.

I’ve tried running my chemicals through coffee filters to remove any debris, but there was no improvement. I develop with constant agitation, use proper washes between steps, and finish with distilled water and Photo-Flo.

I’m not really sure what to try next or what could be causing this and how to fix this. I don’t think it’s dust, since even Digital ICE doesn’t really register it.

One think to maybe note is that I bought my CD-3 powder locally from a guy on auction website. It’s not exactly the same pure white as the CD-3 shown in the No Grain No Gains video, (although it was in vacuum sealed package) and when mixed, the solution is fairly purple. So I’m not sure whether it’s simply different or has degraded/expired. That said, it seems to develop the film just fine, and the colors also look respectable.

The attached photos are Fuji 200 (so basically Kodak Gold/ColorPlus) and last one is gold 200, scanned on a Plustek 7500i and inverted in NLP.

Pics and videos of the negatives: https://imgur.com/a/GXAyn9Y

Edit: Attached pictures and videos of negatives

This is balsam separation, right? If it is, I heard it's complex to fix. Probably not worth to have it serviced and just keep shooting until it falls apart, the images I get are still good.