
Got in my hand AHU 250d and 500t
My friend told me to shoot both at 400 iso, someone already shot this new vision 3 version?

My friend told me to shoot both at 400 iso, someone already shot this new vision 3 version?
I’ve been into photography for 16 years, and over that time I’ve collected a lot of cameras. But for the first time in my life, I now own a brand new camera. Completely new, untouched by anyone before me.
And that camera turned out to be a 1993 FED-5V.
It sounds a bit funny but even though this FED spent 33 years sitting in its box, to me it’s still a new camera. Opening the sealed packaging was honestly a very special feeling.
Everything works, although unfortunately the viewfinder needs cleaning because of lubricant outgassing. Decades spent in a box aren’t exactly good for any camera.
I might even put a roll of film through it.
Have you ever had one of those “new old stock” purchases?
They've all disappeared from ebay and now this.
Hello!
I’ve always been fascinated with rangefinder cameras and never had the pleasure to shoot with one so I found what looks like a very nice quality canon gii ql-17. However the seller said in the listing that a battery was required to operate the shutter:
“One thing the manual is not clear about however is that the shutter release is electronically controlled, so if there is no battery installed, or if a battery is dead, the shutter will not work. At that point, the shutter release button can be “forced” to be depressed, but then the mechanism is broken, and will require repair.”
I have been unable to confirm this with searching, is this true?
Thank you shooters!
My partner got me a ring 2 weeks ago, developed with XTOL few days ago and just noticed my ring is looking … different.
I wear a glove on my right hand but I’m thinking I was careless that day.
(The karat is low )
I have a Minolta x700, I usually shoot 800 or Cinestill 400D but I'm doing my first indoor gig shoot which will be too low light for 800.
Ive never shot 3200 or any black and white film. I shoot entirely manual, but my Minolta's ISO only goes to 1200. I'm not too good with numbers and havent wrapped my head around "stop higher/lower".
Should I just put my shutter a couple numbers higher than my light meter suggests at 1200? I'd prefer to get nice, crisp, high contrast shots. I love a good black shadow.
I knew what I was doing, but its the gambles we take.
Of the few issues I see with the camera, so far, the issue I want to tackle first is when winding it doesn't stop at the next frame. It clicks past, and it doesn't let you shoot unless the line on the winder is at 12 oclock.
If you do a full rotation of the winder it does a click/has pressure, but then passes beyond it. Unless you happen to be pressing down on the shutter button as you're turning that point. The way around this is you do the rotation, then put it on Multi, do another rotation to 12 o clock, then you can enter the space that allows the shutter to be shot.
Otherwise shutter speeds seem fine, the battery is new and fresh, not sure if the insert has an issue. I just put an old expired roll in it and it didn't change anything.
The other issues don't correlate, like the lens blades stick a little and I'm testing to see if there's a battery drain.
Thanks in advance. And if you don't know what's up, a video to someone opening it up would be nice!
So I wanna try developing film myself and I found this tank for roughly $10 on an auction site, it's a King Daylight Developing Tank manufactured by Asanuma & Co, and that's all I can find about it, there's not much info about this brand nor the model of the developing tank.
I'm a little concerned about cuz the side of the tank lip seems to have a small missing part, idk wether this would effect the usability of the tank or consider it unusable. I have 0 experience with buying or using these tanks, only the general knowledge of how it works and stuff, so pls don't be too mean to me :')
Hey guys got a question about my Pentax spotmatic f.
Recently bought off someone on Facebook marketplace as untested along with an original canonet.
The spotmatic won’t shoot unless light pressure applied to the wind lever. Also mirror getting stuck up at slower speeds. Anything I can do diy to try sort this out?
Cheers
So I’ve been one a binge of a certain Southern California panoramic photographer recently and now I really want a 6x17 view camera 😂
Please talk me out of that thought because it seems like a terrible idea logically but at the same time like so much fun… 🥲
I am looking to emulate some of Vince Aung's look. Would greatly appreciate any recommendations for film stock.
If anyone has a tip for getting darkroom print service to scan also would thank you.
Thanks in advance and kudos to Vince for the inspiration.
Credit:
Photographer Vince Aung
Groomer Zenia Jaeger
Set designer Bette Adams
Producer Briet Olina
More Images: https://www.brietolina.com/work/zarakids
Today I got 7 rolls of film back from my lab that I had shot over two weeks travelling across Europe, 3 B&W and 4 colour negative. I shot everything on my Nikon F4 with the Nikkor 1.8 50mm AF-D and a Skylight 1A filter. Everything thing seemed and sounded fine, I put fresh batteries in before I left and even brought spare batteries just in case.
Literally my last day there and unloading my last roll before leaving I noticed one of the one of the shutter blades in the film gate was out of place and stuck behind the film gate (Forgot to take photo of that) so as soon as I got back I took it to one of my local stores and they were able to fix it as I didn’t want to mess around with it. Now that I got the film back I can see the issue happened very early on, the first roll I shot through was fine, everything else after that is cropped because of the stuck shutter blade and im surprised I didn’t notice that issue. Problem one solved, problem two though is what im lost on.
Only the colour negatives are very underexposed with the occasional frame being completely overexposed, all the B&W are exposed correctly. I used exclusively Kodak Ultramax for my CN and had the ISO dial manually set for 400 ISO. Again same set up for all the rolls of film I shot, so im totally lost on what happened. Not even the people at the store/lab could think of an explanation for why the B&W is exposed correctly but not the CNI’ve never had any this happen with my F4 so im quite surprised by this. The only thing I could think of is this was my first outing with the AF-D 50mm 1.8, as I had bought it the week before I left for Europe, I had tested it on a Nikon D7200 before leaving to verify it worked and it seemed to be working fine. Any information or help would be greatly appreciated
Recently got into film photography and quickly realized I wasn’t happy with the lab scans I was getting back. I was also surprised that even some of the top scanning brands were relying on flimsy 3D-printed parts while charging premium prices. After two months of research, trial and error, and way too much obsessing over details, I finally finished my scanning setup.
Because it was going to live on my desk, I wanted something that was both highly precise and aesthetically clean. I worked with a friend who owns a metal shop to custom make the base plate and some special screws so everything fit together exactly how I envisioned it.
What I love most is how tailored it feels, no excess height, no wasted width, fits my desk perfectly, and can even slide neatly into its dedicated spot in the closet if I decide to store it.
FYI: it is possible to buy fresh films. No need to GUESS whether they are still good, no need to COMPLAIN about awful results.
I cant tell if its my scanner or if it is my film solution, I use a canon eos 7d for scanning with a 90mm tamron macro lens, my film solution is stored is cheap plastic bottles from dollar tree and I cant tell why the photos suck, everyone else's photos look way sharper than mine, I know its not my film camera because ive shot on so many with a ton of different glass. I use filmlab on my desktop for converting my scans into positives as well
I finally put a couple rolls through this where I feel like I am ready to talk about it. I went on a hunt to try and find the smallest, most pocketable 35mm fully mechanical rangefinder that I could. It seemed like that path took me right to this Olympus 35 RC. Olympus has a few other rangefinders in their 35 range but this is in fact the smallest.
I was worried about the actual functionality since it was so small but it is really enjoyable to use. The winding level feels incredible and is recessed into the body, it has an OFF position on the Aperture ring so that you don't accidentally take photos, the view finder is nice and bright and the patch is easily visible. It goes up to 1/500th a second and all the way down to Bulb which is actually kind of insane to me on something this small. It has an E. Zuiko 42mm f2.8 which is also suprisingly sharp but has this sort of vintage charm to it since its single coated.
The only thing I don't love about it is the frame lines in the viewfinder arent exact but once you put a roll or 3 through it you figure out the real framing of things.
This is now my favorite EDC camera and I have it with me constantly. It is also the first camera I have enjoyed shooting ultramax through.
Insta - whereismytripod
1988 promo Newport cigarette camera, shoots Kodak Gold
The X-700 has a MD 50mm 1.7 and the OM-10 has a F.Zuiko Auto-S 1.8/50. Very happy with them so far!
Here is the first roll sample after having my Canonet QL G-III CLA’d from Kiwi Camera in Orlando, FL.