How lucky have I been?

How lucky have I been?

On a scale of "she'll be right" to "OMFG Run!"?

The sparky we use at work is a great guy who I got out to my house for the first time to do some jobs for me.

He was swapping out an old breaker to an RCBO today after doing a bit of work inside and pulled the cover off and made a concerned noise.

He showed me the main switch on the left and said 'thats not ideal'. We established that everyone else I have had at my house in the last 6 years installing solar, batteries and assorted other works has just done their bit and not cared to mention this shit fight.

He gave me a quote to redo the board with one big 18 pole box with an active bar and bigger neutral bar rather than the 5 small boxes and rats nest of wires which will happen shortly.

I'm adding another two circuits in a little while so I'll need to do the upgrade anyway but how bad is this actually and should I make it a 'sooner rather than later' job?

u/big_aussie_mike — 7 days ago

In the round, stereo or mono?

Sorry for the vague title, keeping it short.

So I'm picking up an extra local venue under my main theatre to manage the sound for.

The existing setup is a bit of a trainwreck so I'll be resetting everything but have one point I'm not overly familiar with.

The theatre is set up with seating in about 160 degrees around a stage with 4 speakers above the stage spread out for the coverage but there isn't a huge amount of overlap. The existing setup is stereo in a L L R R config which only benefits the people in the centre of the seating. Adding to the complexity is the speakers are about 80 degrees above the eyeline for most of audience looking at the stage.

Having only ever set up in venues that were straight on, this config is a bit foreign to me.

Would you guys go L R L R to have the option of a bit of width in a mix or just go full mono?

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u/big_aussie_mike — 27 days ago

Electricity free hours and low solar

I know retailers are going to be offering more plans with free/cheap power during the day to consume the great gobs of excess solar available.

But.

I'm on one of the already available plans with Globird and in my area of NSW today we have a fairly cloudy day.

As a result, I'm generating next to nothing on my solar but I'm sucking down the maximum my service can handle to charge my house battery, EV and run appliances. That's 14.5kw being drawn from a grid with very little solar going in to it. A few other people I know are doing the same.

Going forward when more people are doing the same and we have days of low solar, are we going to have issues keeping up with demand in this window?

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u/big_aussie_mike — 1 month ago

Fly system batten ballast

Hi guys

We are adding the ability to load an extra 100kg weight block to our counterweight fly system but we have identified a potential issue as these will be bolted in during a pre rig and as such there will be a minimum of 100kg on the cradle side

Mostly these will be used on our wired battens which are 170kg empty so keeping them in weight between the prerig and bump in is no problem.

The issue will come when on the rare occasion someone will be touring the entire contents of a non-electric fly line, these weigh 25kg empty so i need to be able to attach at least an extra 75kg and fly it out.

I'm not keen on just using lights. i'm wondering if there is an existing product/device for this purpose that would allow me to safely fly weights of some sort or does everyone come up with their own solution?

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u/big_aussie_mike — 2 months ago

How far can you push a residential supply short term?

I'm on a power plan with Globird that gives me 3 free hours a day. I have a 6kw solar system and a Tesla Powerwall 2.

I have an 80A service fuse and a C63 breaker on the grid connection

I have a few automations to do things like start charging the Powerwall, turn on a few routine appliances and turn on my car charger when the free period begins.

On a normal day this results in me pulling about 11kw from the grid with about 5kw coming from the solar.

Today though I had a few extra things running and a heavy cloud came over, jumped on the Tesla app and saw my grid connection was pulling nearly 18kw so I manually turned off my car and the load dropped back in to a happy place.

I know C curve breakers have a bit of wiggle room with overloads but what would considered OK?

I'm going to put in an automation to turn off my car if the grid is drawing more than 14.5kw but there is a lag in updating the info and I want to put in a condition that it is over for X minutes so it doesn't switch rapidly on days with broken cloud.

Side question: how much hassle is it to go up to say a 100A single phase service in the essential energy area?

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u/big_aussie_mike — 2 months ago