u/blaze53

So... after several years of having a Warthog throttle, I realized just how little I've been utilizing everything aside from the throttle and a couple of the HATs on it. The sensor slew even stopped working, with only the button click actually registering anything. I haven't played an actual sim in a few years now, and have fallen back to arcade-y shooters and MechWarrior.

So I went back to a CH Pro Throttle. One of the first things I did after purchasing it was send an email to each of the two guys that have advertised selling (I actually was in contact with rel4y back in 2020, ended up waiting for his stock to come back up... man). Neither has responded, even though the Yeung fellow is semi-active on Youtube. I even messaged someone who posted a CH hall upgrade in this subreddit asking how they did it and they have yet to respond after almost a month. :(

I want to upgrade the potentiometer to a hall effect sensor just to get rid of the jerkiness, since the CH board doesn't filter literally any of that out, and eventually I want to try my hand at programming a board replacement to make use of the 12-bit resolution. (Fun fact, CH Products was toying with an update to the firmware that would filter out pot jitter about 12 years ago)

tl;dr ...I have no idea what I'm doing. Do I use a turret hall pot or do I board-mount a sensor with magnets? How the hell do I rig one up myself that's effectively a drop-in replacement?

So if a Blu-Ray disc has two seemingly otherwise identical titles but one has English/Japanese and the other has English/European language tracks, which one is preferred? Is there any difference in the actual editing of the video track? Or is this a way to just save money by having tracks locked by region?

Does anybody know why MW5 would refuse to recognize this? Buttons don't work (and when trying to bind them in-game, pressing the button results in the bind prompt closing, almost like a blank input). Everything else I've got in the file works like it should, and my Warthog throttle doesn't need mapping (hurrah!).

START_BIND

NAME: RIGHT VPC WarBRD Stick

VID: 0x03EB

PID: 0x2049

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button1, OutButtons=Joystick_Button1

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button2, OutButtons=Joystick_Button2

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button3, OutButtons=Joystick_Button3

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button4, OutButtons=Joystick_Button4

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button5, OutButtons=Joystick_Button5

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button6, OutButtons=Joystick_Button6

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button7, OutButtons=Joystick_Button7

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button8, OutButtons=Joystick_Button8

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button9, OutButtons=Joystick_Button9

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button10, OutButtons=Joystick_Button10

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button11, OutButtons=Joystick_Button11

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button12, OutButtons=Joystick_Button12

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button13, OutButtons=Joystick_Button13

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button14, OutButtons=Joystick_Button14

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button15, OutButtons=Joystick_Button15

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button16, OutButtons=Joystick_Button16

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button17, OutButtons=Joystick_Button17

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button18, OutButtons=Joystick_Button18

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Button19, OutButtons=Joystick_Button19

BUTTON: InButton=GenericUSBController_Hat1, OutButtons=Joystick_Hat_1

AXIS: InAxis=HOTAS_XAxis, OutAxis=Joystick_Axis2, Invert=FALSE, Offset=-0.5,DeadZoneMin=-0.2, DeadZoneMax=0.2, MapToDeadZone=TRUE

AXIS: InAxis=HOTAS_ZAxis, OutAxis=Joystick_Axis3, Invert=FALSE, Offset=-0.5,DeadZoneMin=-0.2, DeadZoneMax=0.2, MapToDeadZone=TRUE

AXIS: InAxis=HOTAS_YAxis, OutAxis=Joystick_Axis1, Invert=FALSE, Offset=-0.5,DeadZoneMin=-0.2, DeadZoneMax=0.2, MapToDeadZone=TRUEeadZoneMax=0.2, MapToDeadZone=TRUE

So I've got the old Gen2 Echo. Recently it has started losing connection consistently and every day, to the point where just to use it I had to power cycle it to do anything. Replaced it with an Echo Dot 5th Gen. Found out that the power cable is... shorter than the old one.

So the question is this: can I use the Echo Gen2's cable with the Echo Dot? They're both barrel adapters, and the older one is 21 watts vs the new one's 15 watts. I just don't know if the bricks just ram their output in all at once or if it doesn't matter.

Edit for anyone that finds this post: It's a moot point, anyway. The bore of the 21 watt is too small to fit.