I have a 2026 limited. The stereo feels so thin for a premium sound system when I’m playing through wireless CarPlay. But when I use FM or XM the sound has so much more bass and fidelity.
Is that due to wireless CarPlay?
And if so, how do I force wired CarPlay? I would much rather plug in and have way better sound, but I can’t seem to figure out how to force CarPlay over USB.
Hey all, got a tip to share. tl;dr: if you experience overheating during wireless charging, position your phone on the pad with the top of the phone facing the backseat. This could provide better alignment with the charging coils and reduce heat generation.
Like many others, I've been struggling with my phone overheating on the wireless charger. Wireless charging is notoriously inefficient and creates a lot of heat, especially when the coils are not in perfect alignment. This is why MagSafe works so well and achieves much faster charging speeds -- it forces perfect alignment through magnets.
I was discussing the issue with another Redditor and they mentioned that they had the issue with their iPhone 16 but not 17. The iPhone 17 slightly modified the position of MagSafe down a bit. This had me wondering if the iPhone 17's MagSafe position just happens to align better with the Ioniq 5's charging pad.
On a lark, I decided to flip my 16 around. Not face down, obviously, but with the top of the phone facing toward the back seat. This has made a tremendous difference. I haven't experienced overheating since! At first I was thinking it was just in my head or maybe I was just charging on a cooler day. But now it's been a week with varying weather conditions and I still haven't had the phone overheat, whereas before it was almost guaranteed.
I'm not suggesting this is a fix for all phones, but it's definitely working for me. I also recognize there are some aftermarket solutions that add MagSafe, but I like the clean look of the existing pad.
I just got my Ioniq 5 (love it!!) and it’s my first EV. I mostly charge at home, but recently decided to try a public charger just to see.
I typically use Apple Maps but used the onboard navigation to the nearest charger with Hyundai Pay.
The pricing was not clear at all. Hyundai’s app said it didn’t know the pricing. I figured it would be a $10 experiment since I was at 45%. I went to eat lunch and the charging happened so fast I couldn’t finish eating in time and had to change my limit from 80% to 100%. I finished at 92% and it was $27!!!!
So my question is, what’s your process for finding chargers? Do you consider pricing before you navigate to them? And if so, how?
I’ll admit, this was my very first time charging on a public charger. So this is likely beginner’s error.
I just got my first EV (Ioniq 5) about a month ago and normally charge at home, but my driveway is currently being worked on and I was near a public charger on an errand and thought I’d “practice” since I’d never done it before.
With Hyundai Pay it was pretty seamless. I plugged in, tapped “pay now” in the car, and charging started. But the price wasn’t listed anywhere. I figured it would be a ~$15 experiment and ate some lunch while it charged.
It charged WAY faster than I thought it would. I couldn’t finish my lunch in time (great problem to have), but the final total was $27, and I only went from 48% to 92% (I originally was only going to go to 80% but it happened way too fast and decided to extend so I could get my food to-go and pay).
Is it typical that the price isn’t advertised? And is it usually this much? I have solar at home so charging is effectively free, but even paying full rate, it would be ~$15 to fully charge.
Still cheaper than current gas prices, but damn.
I posted earlier but I have more info now.
I’m trying to understand if this wall is load bearing because I’d like to remove 3 studs and build a reading nook in there.
The joists above and below run parallel to the wall.
It is the exterior wall of the shed dormer photographed.
It does have a double top plate, but so does the adjacent wall.
I recently installed the IQ EV 2 for my Ioniq 5 and I’m loving it. I especially love how it can throttle power based on my excess solar energy production.
But when I was setting it up, I could’ve sworn I was allowed to pick max amps, and now I can’t find that. Is there a way to adjust this on the fly? It’s currently at 48A and I’d like to lower it in certain situations.
For context, I’ve heard that the ICCU failures on the Ioniq 5 could possibly be due to high amperage AC charging. I know they’re all just theories, but I would like the ability to charge at slower speeds if I don’t need to charge quickly.
I’m demoing our nursery which resides in a dormer. There’s a ton of space underneath the roof that the dormer protrudes from and I thought it would be super cool to build out a little reading book in there.
I would have to remove 3 joists but there’s room to double up on either side of the entry.
Is it possible that this is a retaining wall?
(I obviously won’t be messing with the knee wall behind it in the unfinished space)
I’ve been struggling with the wireless charging pad like most people. I want it to work but I don’t want to do Ioniq Guy’s mod because I find it to be a little messy.
Someone recently did a cleaner install that required some drilling and just a bunch of work I don’t personally think is worth it — I’d rather just plug in at that point.
But I’m wondering if anyone has tried a MagSafe sticker underneath the rubber pad that’s perfectly aligned with one of the qi rings? I know some of the excess heat is definitely due to the phone not being perfectly aligned with the rings and this would at least get you perfect alignment.
Has anyone tried this? Any success stories?
I filed February 2 and I still haven't received my refund. I checked my transcripts and it's been stuck in the same status for months.
I've tried to call to speak to someone but can't get a single human. I just get an automated refund status saying that I should receive my refund within 21 days of filing, which obviously isn't true.
This is a pretty big refund due to a solar install.
What else can I do here? I've never had this happen before.
I’m having an issue where my car will unlock too frequently. My car is parked in such a way that I have to walk by it whenever I leave the house and I’m often just walking or riding my bike.
I tried turning off the Digital Key passive entry, but now entering the car with my phone is too cumbersome.
Is there some kind of middle ground? For instance, I’d love to have it only unlock if I approach and touch the door handle.
I’d like to eventually change my wheels from 20” to a smaller size whenever these first set of tires wear down, and I want to understand my options and get some opinions from the community.
I’m a skier and will very likely have two sets of wheels — one for winter tires and one for all season tires.
What are my options? Are there special considerations for EV wheels? Any brands you’d recommend or should I find Hyundai wheels like the ones that come on the XRT? I don’t want to negatively impact range.
What size do you all prefer as a good balance between ride quality and durability? I was thinking maybe 19” for summer and 18” for winter, but maybe I just do 18” all year round?
Just joined the club, and wow. I honestly can’t really believe how much I love this car. The only thing I can compare it to is that first time you use a new Apple product. Everything is so thoughtfully designed and it’s such a joy to use.
I came from a 2007 Outback, which has served me very well. Super reliable, fantastic in the snow. I recently drove it after having driven the 5 and the difference almost made me laugh. The cabin feels so tight, and the car feels so sluggish and loud. I’m not saying ICE cars are dead to me but it felt like using a record player or something — it’s romantic and nostalgic but not something I want to do all the time.
My one concern is the winter. I’m an avid skier and while the range is plenty now, I’m slightly worried it could be an inconvenience when the range is diminished, especially with a ski rack. I’m toying around with keeping the Subaru, but lately a lot of things are starting to fail (20 years old!) and I honestly just don’t want to drive it — and I LOVED that car. But I just like the Ioniq 5 so much more.
I also love the Digital Teal color and how it changes so drastically in different lighting. My neighbor commented on how it reacts like silk, which is spot on.
Anyway, just wanted to drop in and say hi and share my experience. I’m hoping I’ll be able to post again in a year and report no ICCU issues! The community seems super active and supportive and I’m really grateful for that as well. Glad to be here!
Hey all,
I just got a 2026 Limited for $38K. Pretty proud of that price -- it took a lot of going back and forth between dealers.
That said, when I was signing I did end up falling pray to the HPP warranty, which he said extends the electrical warranty from 5 years to 10 years and allows for "human error" like electrical damage like leaving your windows open in the rain. He originally quoted $2400 but I got him down to $2k and went for it because he said I can cancel within 30 days.
I also looked back at my original offer on an SEL that was insanely overpriced and they had quoted me $1400. But I assume if I pushed back on that for the Limited they'd make up some story about how it needs to cost more etc etc.
What do you all think? The peace of mind sounds nice, but $2k is a lot, and I kind of get the sense most electrical stuff just doesn't really break?
Just got a new car. The dealer said they put a ceramic coating on the car, but there was a “trunk door open button here” sticker on the trunk. Makes me think they didn’t do it, unless they add those after the pre check?
What do you think?
NOTE: Since many of you are asking, I thankfully did NOT pay for this. PHEW.
I just got a 2026 Limited and specifically asked for no extras because I didn’t want to be upsold on things like roof racks etc. But it doesn’t even have carpeted floor mats. Is that really an add on? And then it did have the trunk cover, which the dealer says was an oversight but I don’t know if I buy that.
Anyway, TuxMats look the best to me, but they don’t have 2026 in stock yet. Any other recs? And has anyone tried fitting 2022-2024 into a 25/26? Are they really that different?
I just got my brand new 2026 Limited and I am loving it! I got the dealer down to $38k which feels like a steal for a car this nice.
Anyway, I’m wondering about the digital key 2’s reliability. Can I travel entirely without the physical key entirely? That seems to be the point of digital key but it still makes me nervous. I have a newer iPhone with UWB fwiw.
How has everyone found its reliability? Anyone here ditch the key entirely?
Hey r/foodscience,
I head up R&D at Stumptown Coffee and I've been a Genesis user for years. A couple of years ago I started sketching what a formulation tool would look like if it were rebuilt for the way an R&D team actually works in 2026 — drag-and-drop supplier specs that auto-populate ingredient records, document expiration tracking that doesn't live in a spreadsheet, spec sheets that export to editable Word docs instead of locked PDFs, batch sheets that scale with yield loss baked in.
That sketch is now a working app called Fond, which I'm building with a co-founder (he handles the engineering; I bring the R&D problems). FDA + CFIA labels, modern UX, no annual contracts, no sales demos. $39/mo when we launch.
Anyone can sign up free right now and build out 5 ingredients and 1 recipe — enough to kick the tires and see if it clicks. But we're also opening up full beta access to a small group — maybe 25 people — with no limits on ingredients or recipes, so they can actually push the app and tell us where it breaks. We'll be shipping fixes weekly based on what we hear.
Looking for working R&D folks, formulators, or founders at brands shipping 5+ SKUs.
Email beta@fondnutrition.com with a sentence or two about what you're working on and we'll get back to you. Happy to answer questions in the comments too.
Brent