u/davetalas

UPDATE: I've found a lot of garbage in my system prompt, so got rid of all of that and made some stronger restrictions. Read my top level comment for the current prompt.

ORIGINAL POST:
I use Opus 5 most of the time.

I'm getting tired of it always overdoing whatever I ask from it.

For example:

In the middle of a somewhat long chat, I asked it to "commit changes and push to main."

I have made some changes to the code it wrote but didn't want to bother committing everything.

Instead of committing the changes and pushing to main, it recognized my changes, REVERTED to its own changes, and then committed it 😂

It also found another change I made to a file and when it saw it was in the commit, it went back and removed it from the commit and only decided to commit the file it was working on.

I'm getting very tired of this. If it is in doubt, it should just ask a question back, like "uhm, I noticed the file has been changed and there is a new file in the commit. Is that intentional, and should I still go ahead with the commit?"

---

Another example 10 minutes later:

My question: "do we have a script for checking X on page Y?"

Expected behaviour:

a) yes, it is in pythonfile.py line 214.

b) no, we don't.

Behaviour I get:

"No dedicated script — but there is half of one already written: src/utils.py:105 in src/utils.py.

What it does: [described here].

Three catches:

1. It's dead code — nothing calls it anywhere in the repo.
2. The click is commented out (utils.py:148, with a #TODO: UNCOMMENT THESE), so even if called it would only find the link and log success without actually using the essence.
3. It's not a checker — the parse is welded to a hardcoded decision and returns nothing. There's no way to just ask "what's active right now?"

The routine, meanwhile, ignores all of this and blind-fires IDs by URL — no check of what's already active, so it overwrites whatever is running.

Want me to pull the parsing out into a real function_name(driver) that returns something like {"name": "xxxx", "bonus": 220, "seconds_left": 143512}? That would give you a clean checker to call standalone, and would let the routine skip the blind re-application when a good essence still has time on it."

So instead of getting a straight answer to my command (example 1) and to my question (example 2), I get all this bloated crap that I didn't ask for, and it's slowing me down a lot.

I've tried phrasing it a couple of different ways, I'm using the caveman skill too, but apparently Lite mode is not strong enough, and Opus 5 is also like 300% more verbose than 4.8 was.

So, if you have a system prompt for this, I'd really appreciate it, or if a lot of people struggle with this overly enthusiastic shit, let's build one together.

Sziasztok!

Szeretném felépíteni a vésztartalékjaimat, de nem tudom hol tároljam ezt a pénzt, három fontos dolog lenne:

1. Könnyen hozzáférhető legyen
2. Védve legyen banki csőd ellen
3. Kamatozzon valamennyit hogy legalább inflációt ne bukjak rajta.

Mivel átkerültem már a Revolut magyar bankfiókra, így be fogom zárni végre a CIB bankos számlámat, és a Revolutot szeretném fő magyar számlaként használni. Emelett már van megnyitva egy Wise számlám is.

Úgy látom, hogy igazából a két legjobb opció egyelőre az alábbiak:

- Revolut USD-ben, 3,00% EBKM (ez az információim alapján bruttó, lejön belőle majd 15% SZJA és 13% SZOCHO, ezt a Revo befizeti és bejelnti helyettem, nekem a nettót adja)
- Wise 3,34% változó kamat (az elmúlt 7 nap alapján), ha jól értesültem akkor itt van 30% "withholding tax", ezt ők befizetik a Belga hatóságoknak, és nekem a maradékot adják "cashback" formájában. Ebből nekem még kell itthon további 15% SZJA-t és 13% SZOCHO-t fizetni? Erről nem találtam infót.

Nem sok pénzről beszélünk, szóval ha a Wise-ot még be is kell külön vallani és befizetni, akkor hiába ad kicsivel többet, nem szeretnék ezzel foglalkozni, inkább legyen akkor kevesebb de időmentes.

Köszi előre is!

(btw, azért USD, mert külföldi ügyfelei vannak a cégemnek és USD-ben számlázok, szóval nem kell forintra váltanom a pénzt csak amit havi szinten költögetek.)

Megoldás: Revolut lesz a jó. Amióta a Revolut számlákat átrakták a magyar bankfiókra, azóta a Revolut levonja a kamat utáni adókat és bevallja, mint az összes többi magyar bank. (köszi u/5perc_szunet: "https://help.revolut.com/hu-HU/help/app-features/savings-vaults/tax-on-instant-access-savings/
és a lényeg: Azonban a számlád áttelepítése után ez megváltozik, és a magyar jogszabályoknak megfelelően a kamat összegéből, mielőtt azt a Megtakarítási számládon jóváírnánk, 28%-os adót vonunk le. Ez az összeg 15%-os forrásadót (PIT) és 13%-os társadalombiztosítási adót tartalmaz, amelyet mi jelentünk és utalunk át a magyar adóhatóságoknak.")

A Wise viszont nemhogy nem vallja be itthon, hanem 30% adót levon és befizet Belgiumnak, majd erre +13% SZOCHÓ-t kell itthon bevallani és befizetni. Ezután elvileg a 15% különbözetet vissza lehet igényelni Belgiumtól, de ez macerásnak tűnik.

Szóval nekem emiatt Revolut, sokkal egyszerűbb. Ha nem a Standard plan-en vagy mint én, hanem van valami előfizetésed, akkor magasabb kamat is lesz az USD számlán, de szerintem pusztán emiatt nem éri meg előfizetni.

Amire még közben rájöttem: Apple Pay-es Revolut feltöltés ingyenes, legalábbis a Wise számlámról feltöltött 300 USD valóban 300 USD-ként jelent meg a Revoluton, és a Wise egyenlegről is 300 USD lett levonva. Ezen lehet van valami limit, de most ez tök jó hogy szépen egy helyre tudom tenni a pénzemet vele.

I've seen videos about removing the connector under the back seat and letting it rest for 5 minutes, then plugging it back in, and how this would make the error disappear.

Apparently this doesn't work anymore. Anyone knows a 2026 working solution?

The subject is a 2021 M3P (82.1kWh) battery with 77,600 kilometers. Currently sitting in my garage at 79%, plugged in and won't charge.

If nothing changes, I'll drive it to the local SC, but I'm told there is an average 6-8 week wait period for HV batteries, so I'd rather drive it as long as I can. I only use about 10% per week.

I don't understand. It says cancelling the membership disables the ability to upload new data. But then says the membership remains active until the end.

So if I cancel now, will I be able to use the strap and the app until the end of the period I paid for?

At this point, I wouldn't be surprised from this company to immediately halt data upload from the Strap as soon as you click the cancel button and before your period expires.

https://preview.redd.it/5zmaolfs2p3h1.png?width=1042&format=png&auto=webp&s=16b9be0c2502e1aeacfeb7f1253b69974ae45e9a

I have a 2021 Model 3 Performance (NCA, ~79 kWh) and drive only 3-5% per day, 3x a week (short trips to the gym). Car sits in a garage plugged in for ~160 hours per week. About once a month I take a longer trip where I charge to 80-100%, discharge almost fully (to 10%), then recharge for the way back and discharge again.

Based on calendar aging research (Keil/Jossen TUM 2016, Werner et al. MDPI 2021, Battery University, and AAKEE's posts on TMC), I've been keeping my daily limit at 50% to minimize high-SoC dwell time. Imbalance via S3XY Knob sits stable around 30 mV.

A local "battery expert" (claims 26 years working with lithium batteries) told me this is "the worst thing I can do" and "guaranteed battery failure, and I should already book an appointment for the Tesla center" because the BMS can't balance at low SoC because it can't see the differences at 50%. His recommendation instead: charge to 80%, let it run down to ~20% over 1-2 weeks of regular use, then plug in and charge back to 80% — repeat. Explicitly NOT daily charging. His analogy: "you wouldn't drive your gas car to the pump every night to add 1-2 liters." When I asked for sources and data, he called Battery University authors "dilettantes who should be institutionalized" and eventually blocked me.

His main technical experience seems to be repairing Lithium packs, and he told me that he is happy to fix my battery once I mess it up with this stupid "50% daily limit" with an "extra charge for being a smartass". His "don't plug in daily" advice also seems to directly contradict the Tesla owner's manual, which explicitly says to leave the car plugged in when not in use.

A lot of the advice I see online tends to agree with the following:

1. use as low daily charge % as you need to get by for your daily trip without going under 20%. So keep it around 50%.

2. Keep it plugged in all the time and charge frequently. Low DoD (depth of discharge) is better for the battery long term and will result in less degradation per mile driven vs. higher DoD and less frequent charging.

3. avoid very low and very high SoC for prolonged periods of time.

So: am I missing something, or is the "80→20% deep cycling, no daily charging" advice basically extrapolated from LFP behavior and old S/X firmware? Anyone with long-term data on low-SoC daily strategy on a 2020+ NCA (or NMC) Tesla?

My goal is to keep degradation to a minimum. I work from home, the car sits in the underground garage, plugged in 24/7 with a 50% daily limit. Can I really mess up my battery this way? I would think that if this would damage the battery long term, Tesla wouldn't allow a 50% limit setting. I'm open to changing my routines if data shows that this is a bad protocol long term, but all research seems to point in the other direction, especially with me doing longer trips around once a month where I charge it up and drain it down.

Hi everyone. Recently I've been struggling with reaching my sleep need from the hours needed in the app. I've fixed my sleep consistency. My sleep window is very regular between 11:30 p.m. and around 8:00 a.m., and both are usually plus or minus 10 minutes here, and when I do a heavier workout, (I usually work out three times a week) I reach around 16 to 17 strain, and it tells me I need 45 minutes of extra sleep just from that.

This night is a great example because I took a bigger nap the day before, so I was going in with zero sleep debt, and I slept from 11:40 pm until around 8:00 a.m. I woke up naturally. I felt like I had great sleep. My HRV was above average, so my recovery was in the green. I was feeling fine, and then the apps still say I have 45 minutes of sleep debt just because of the increased strain from the day before.

This happened to me many times before, and I was trying to catch up on this sleep debt by going to bed earlier, so I went to bed at 11pm, but then I woke up at around 7:10 a.m., so if I try to shift my sleep earlier a little bit to be able to catch up on this, my body just wakes up earlier.

I have 94 to 96% sleep efficiency in the last 30 days avg.

I use:

• blackout blinds, curtains
• sleep masks
• I take melatonin
• I have a cooling pad (hydrosnooze, works great).
• I don't use screens 1h before bed

So, I think I do pretty much everything right when it comes to sleep, but the app still says I'm sleep deprived. No matter what I do, I cannot catch up on my sleep need for more than a day.

I wanted to reach 100% sleep score just for fun, but it seems like it's impossible for me to get the Hours vs. Needed to 100%, unless I take a big nap in the afternoon. But I can't take a nap if I don't feel sleepy.

Any tips? I'm leaning towards just ignoring this metric as (according to some AI research I've done in the Whoop patent + Sleep studies) it seems like strain doesn't increase sleep need by this much. (maybe 10-15 minutes extra, but not 30-45 like Whoop says).