u/foxox

Hi all! I looked at two used Taycan 4S over the past two days. The one I drove yesterday had a wet area underneath, front half, at what must be the front edge of the battery area. I didn't think much of this -- I thought it was AC condensation. I didn't touch or smell the fluid. I test drove another one today and it was bone dry underneath after a similar duration test drive. The wet Taycan was being sold by a non-Porsche dealership, the dry one was private party. The wet Taycan has fewer miles and one year newer than the other one.

Is it normal for a Taycan to have a wet area underneath from AC condensation? Or do you think this is a strong sign that it could be something like a coolant leak?

I'm going to call the dealership to ask them to look into the wet area for me. I'm currently a few hundred miles from that dealership so I can't go look at it again in person until maybe Monday.

Hi all, my 1987 944 NA sometimes hesitates when accelerating from a stop. I typically notice this when leaving a stop sign or traffic light, low RPMs. Throttle position does not seem to matter much. When it is like this, it also may happen momentarily while shifting through the gears, like just after an upshift when RPMs are lowered. It hesitates for a moment, then something changes and the power kicks back in. It seems to match the descriptions I see online about air flow meter AFM sensor trouble. It usually doesn't start happening until the car is warmed up and I've been driving for a while. Maybe driving in the rain or on a humid day is worse, but I am not sure about this.

I have already, over a year ago, opened my AFM and bent the wipers so the contacts ride on a fresh track. I have tested the AFM multiple times and it responds nice and clean throughout the whole range. Today I even tried testing the AFM while blowing on it with a hot air gun to see if temperature would make it act up, and it was fine. When hot, the temperature sensor resistance was out of the expected range, but I don't think that alone would cause this problem. Maybe?!

Another theory I had is that the AFM door or the throttle could be sticking, however if this is the case, I can't get it to happen on the bench.

What else could this be? Maybe the wiring to the AFM? Hoping someone has another idea here! Thanks

I bought the 8000TLX for my 1987 944 NA during the Memorial Day Sale. I wanted to get the bigger model for compatibility with my other vehicles and for greater strength/stability.

Following the measuring guide, it seemed like it would just barely work in terms of size. I couldn't find any post online about another person with a TLX QuickJack and a 944, so I was taking a bit of a gamble on this. I am making this post to say that it does work.

I ordered it with the drop-in trays to get some more flexibility on lift point placement.

If I push the jack all of the way up against the front tire and lift the car, the driver side rear tire just barely clears the lift while raising it (like 1/8 inch, really close). The passenger side on my car does not, it's just a fraction of an inch too close, so the jack touches that tire when it's raised. So depending on your particular car and the tires you have on it, it could be really close.

I cut 16" lengths of 4x4 and screwed them together in pairs to place under the front wheels. This lets the jacks slide forward a little bit more, and then everything works just fine. A 2x10 or something like that would probably also work, and you could drive up onto them. GoJaks wider than the QuickJack would also probably work... I want to get a set of these next.

It also works to run the QuickJacks side to side instead of front to back, but I had to use the drop-in trays for this too.

So, the 8000TLX and 6000TLX work for a 944, but you want to buy the drop-in trays with it, and you may have to get the front wheels up off the ground an inch or two.

If I were buying a QuickJack only for the 944 or other small cars, I would get the smaller and lighter 3500 or 6000TL.

It is not too difficult to slide them around on the floor. My garage floor is concrete with some kind of older paint or epoxy coating. Sure they're heavy, but I can move them around and I'm not a big guy.

It's great to be able to roll around under the car on a creeper. No more sketchy jack stand nonsense. Having the QuickJacks has given me a renewed interest in fixing little issues under the car that I had been putting off, like replacing old brake and fuel lines.

Get three quarts of ATF or hydraulic fluid for setup. You will lose some when bleeding the cylinders and then you might lose some more if you discover any loose fittings or broken o-rings like I did.

My 944 is not lowered so I am stacking the tall and medium rubber spacers. I got the kit with the taller SUV spacers but I haven't tried those yet, they might work.

Some advice on the Internet says you must not ever lift from certain points under the 944 because those points are prone to collapse. Maybe if you're lifting half the weight of the car on that one point (like with a floor jack) that could happen, but I think it's okay if you're lifting from four points at once. I'm willing to do it with my car anyway.

Problems:

• My QuickJack arrived with a few loose hose fittings... make sure they're tight. I asked the manufacturer for torque specifications for the hose fittings and didn't get an answer.
• One of the o-rings was pinched on a hose fitting at the pump and needed to be replaced. I asked the manufacturer what type of o-ring should replace the broken one, also no answer there but the original looked like a normal black nitrile o-ring. Maybe they're sending me one, I guess I'll see when I get the package.
• One of the hose-to-hose quick connectors doesn't lock properly, the manufacturer is sending a replacement free of charge.
• One of the air cylinders was filled with too much pressure on arrival. I asked the manufacturer about this and they said it's okay. I adjusted it to the range specified in the manual.
• It raises far enough to lock in the highest locking position, but I can't get it to go far enough past that point for the locking cams to reset on their own for lowering the car. I have to manually tilt the arms/cams into their lowering configuration to lower the car. I am going to try to bleed the cylinders again, I suspect that air in the lines could be causing this.