

POV: Montagne creating LV Pur Ambre
Been following the Pure Amber release for a while now and got to chat with Montagne a bit about how they approached it. Honestly this might be one of the more interesting formulas they've worked on.
And unless I'm forgetting something, this might genuinely be one of the first times I've seen a clone/inspired-by company (even non-niche company) use a proper high quality natural ambergris material like this. At least I can't think of many examples where a company in this space is openly using something like Biolandes Ambergris Infusion rather than just Ambroxan or an ambergris accord.
One of the big things they mentioned is Paradisone, which is apparently used in the original LV formula. It's a DSM-Firmenich captive, so even though batches sometimes leak onto the open market, it's extremely expensive and more importantly you can't really rely on being able to buy it again once that batch is gone, as it is rarely available for regular companies (meaning if you aren't LVMH).
So instead of building the whole fragrance around something they might not be able to source again, they went with Hedione HC directly from DSM-Firmenich. And they made a point that it's actually their material, not just some random generic methyl dihydrojasmonate HC.
But the part I find more interesting is the ambergris.
They're using Ambergris Infusion F0048 from Biolandes in France.
I've been interested in perfumery for quite a while and have worked with raw materials a bit in the past, so this part caught my attention straight away. Real ambergris materials are not exactly the kind of thing you normally see thrown into cheap clone formulas.
The Biolandes material is basically a proper natural ambergris tincture used in fine perfumery. The ambergris itself is collected in New Caledonia and then processed by Biolandes in France. It's a 2% ambergris infusion in alcohol, which might sound low if you're not familiar with perfumery materials, but that's completely normal for something like this.
And natural ambergris is expensive for a reason. It's rare, the quality varies massively depending on the material, age, oxidation etc, and it has a much more complex salty/musky/animalic/ambery character than just dumping Ambroxan into a formula and calling it ambergris.
That's also apparently why this release took forever.
Montagne got a batch from Biolandes, didn't like the quality, rejected it completely and waited for them to make another one.
That's probably the part I respect most about the whole thing. They could've just used the first batch and 99% of people buying it would never know. Instead they delayed the fragrance and waited until they got something they were actually happy with.
The pics attached are the actual Biolandes Ambergris Infusion F0048 they received.
I've redacted a few of the shipment/internal details from the photos before posting them. Montagne seem to prefer keeping that side of the company pretty private and there's no reason for me to put any of their internal information out there.
They basically told me they're now really happy with where Pure Amber is and feel confident releasing it.
And apparently the raw material cost is much higher than most of their other formulas, so they expect it to be somewhere toward the higher end of their pricing. Nothing final yet though.
I also think the Paradisone decision makes sense. Sure, they could've hunted down some random expensive batch and said "look, we used the same captive as LV", but what happens when it's gone? Then you either reformulate it or the next batches smell different.
Using something they can actually keep sourcing directly from DSM-Firmenich probably makes a lot more sense long term.
Obviously that also means this isn't some exact ingredient-for-ingredient clone of Pur Ambre, so the real question is still gonna be how close does it actually smell?
I'm buying the real LV Pur Ambre as well, so once Pure Amber drops and I have both in hand I'll do a proper side by side.
And just to put the whole thing into perspective, the actual LV is around $1,000 for 100ml and it's also not something you normally just walk into any LV store and find sitting there. It's a pretty rare release with limited availability, which makes this comparison even more interesting.
That's the part I'm most curious about.
Because if Montagne actually gets close to something in that price range while using proper Biolandes ambergris and keeping the formula reproducible, this could be a pretty interesting release.