u/i12drift

Old post: https://www.reddit.com/r/tradclimbing/comments/1s5rv4t/my_baseline_for_any_outdoor

I had used the same baseline multipitch setup for about a year or so prior to recent times. I wanted a few new things and decided to do an overhaul of everything.

I took the advice to up my 60cm sling count from 4 + 2 to 5 + 2, and dropped from 2x 120cm to just 1. I also went from 2 lockers + 1 nonlocker 'extra' carabiners to just a single HMS locker. My old HollowBlock was old, so i bought a Beal Jammy to replace it. I still bring my microtraxion from time to time, but that's objective specific.

I got some Z4's from size 0.3 to 0.75 and swapped those in. I found a stuck red BD C3 which conveniently can act as my doubling up with my black totem. I also got a DMM Dragon #1 cuz I like it. I swapped all my cam carabiners from Dyons to Aether Wires, and the gear side of all my slings are also aethers as well. I was a fan of my friend's Grivel Plume lockers, so I swapped out a few DMM lockers for a few of those.

Nobody asked me, but my wife and kids are out of town and I'm home sick. ... So I decided to make a "What should I buy for my first outdoor sport adventure?" list of gear.

EDIT: It probably wasn't clear in the post, but this list is not for me. I've been outdoor climbing for about 6yrs now. This is for someone who perhaps has never gone outdoors, or has gone once but following the instruction of someone who knows the ins and outs of what is needed.

The intention is to have it be the bare minimum for someone who's done enough research etc about things. It's also intended for someone who is *new* to outdoor climbing. No shortcuts.

There certainly are other ways to do things (2x quickdraws for anchors vs quad), but I want this to be the most foundational. This allows the user to decide where they want to cut corners.

Not the cheapest, nor the best/most expensive, but simple and somewhere in the realm of 'most bang for your buck.' I also want it to be all from one site for convenience, so I'm going with REI.

I'm assuming that they have a harness, shoes, and belay devices.

Quickdraws:

1. 2x 6pack: https://www.rei.com/product/C02394/black-diamond-hotforge-quickpack-package-of-6
2. 1x 'first bolt' quickdraw: https://www.rei.com/product/114548/edelrid-bulletproof-quickdraw-set

This collection of 13 quickdraws will you up most sport routes in most areas. They're all keynose as well, so no snagging on gear loops or bolts.

Anchor materials:

1. 1x 240cm sling for anchors: https://www.rei.com/product/868319/metolius-sling-11-mm
2. 2x locking for bolts: https://www.rei.com/product/162854/black-diamond-hotforge-screwgate-carabiner?color=GRAY
3. 2x locking HMS for rope: https://www.rei.com/product/232856/petzl-attache-carabiner Optional: https://www.rei.com/product/150383/edelrid-hms-bulletproof-screw-carabiner if you're feeling fancy.

This set of 4x keynose locking carabiners + a single 240cm is great.

Other things:

1. Harness: https://www.rei.com/product/232859/petzl-corax-harness?color=DARK%2520GRAY
2. Shoes: https://www.rei.com/product/203927/la-sportiva-finale-climbing-shoes-mens
3. A stick clip: https://www.rei.com/product/236157/metolius-basic-stick-clip
4. An extra carabiner: https://www.rei.com/product/193299/dmm-phantom-hms-screwgate-carabiner
5. Personal anchor: 120cm https://www.rei.com/product/191859/black-diamond-18-mm-nylon-runner and https://www.rei.com/product/111231/petzl-smd-twist-lock-autolock-carabiner
6. Rappel stuff: https://www.rei.com/product/151968/petzl-reverso-belay-device + https://www.rei.com/product/232856/petzl-attache-carabiner + https://www.rei.com/product/150912/sterling-68-mm-hollowblock2-loop-135-in + https://www.rei.com/product/162854/black-diamond-hotforge-screwgate-carabiner?color=GRAY
7. Grigri: https://www.rei.com/product/151970/petzl-grigri-belay-device + https://www.rei.com/product/111170/petzl-smd-screw-lock-carabiner
8. Rope: https://www.rei.com/product/150913/sterling-vr9-98-mm-dry-core-rope + https://www.rei.com/product/129962/metolius-rope-tarp
9. Helmet: https://www.rei.com/product/155058/black-diamond-half-dome-helmet

Any harness and any pair of shoes will suffice. A Petzl connect will suffice as a PAS, but I always found it awkward to rappel with it. Not that there will likely be any rappelling on a first outdoor day. Any 70m rope will suffice. Rope tarp can be substituted with an ikea bag.

EDIT: To backpack on a comment below, this is a TR-all-day kit for a beginner.

I'm a huge fan of Avant Climbing, and often find myself adopting/copying what Brent does. I copied his TRS and LRS setup, but I'm curious what other folks think of his most recent video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUiE6Qv9FAg

I'm a fan of each person having a grigri + their own tube for a total of four devices. He talks about how the leader carries an ATC/tube while the follower carries the grigri. What do you folks think for multipitch trad climbing?

From left to right, the driver temperature up/down buttons, warmer, “what to blow”, “fan up” and passenger temperature up/down don’t work.

The auto, climate, “fan up”, both defog, and circulate cabin buttons do work.

Any ideas why this might be happening?

I was teaching the very beginnings of the idea of how to find the slope of a tangent line at (1,1) for the function f(x) = x^2 last Thursday.

We did it by 'creeping' up to x = 1 from both ends, like.. Idk it's hard to describe without my mouth or the ability to write on a whiteboard.

"We could hold the point (1,1) fixed and 'drag' the point (3, 9) to the left towards (1,1) until we got really close, like (1.01, 1.0201), and find the slope between those two points. That would be a really good approximation."

*makes table with x = 1.2, 1.1, 1.01*

"We could do the same from the under-side as well. Hold (1,1) fixed and slide (0,0) up and right really close to (1, 1), like (0.99, 0.9801) and find that slope."

Q: What does it appear the slope should be?

Class A: "It looks like the slope should be 2!

But then a student of mine asked a fun question: What if we took a point on either slide and slid both of those towards (1,1)? Would that work?

I had to pause for a bit and think about it. My answer was that having two moving parts might be a bit more cumbersome than needed, but yes it should work.

A few days later (today), the thought popped back into my head, so I did it. It works and it's simple and it's cool.

Before going to redrocks, I bought some new weight savings items cuz im a nutter-butter and felt like blowing my promotion/retention bonus on superfluous climbing gear. It was definitely noticeable.

We were going to do Epinephrine but opted not to cuz we didn't wanna wake up mega early. Instead, we flew in and did Birdland on day1, Johnny Vegas into Solar Slab on day2, and then The Great Red Book + fly out on day3.

Without going into the nitty gritty details, my multipitch gear swaps/changes led to:

• 4x less alpine carabiners = 132g reduction
• 8x 60cm slings --> 7x lighter 60cm slings = 50g reduction
• 2x 120cm slings --> 2x lighter 120cm slings = 16g reduction
• 1x 240cm sling + 2x HMS --> lighter 240cm + 1x HMS = 77g reduction
• A few cam swaps = 63g reduction (already owned, just optimized what was brought)
• 16x lighter cam carabiners = 78g reduction
• rappel device + carabiner swaps = 37g reduction
• lighter harness = 160g reduction
• no more personal anchor = 172g reduction
• 5x extra carabiners (lol) --> 1x extra carabiner = 147g reduction
• nuts + nut tool change = 88g reduction

My gear's weight went from 11.75 pounds to 9.5 pounds; A 2.25 pound reduction!

Megan participated in the 'weight loss' shinanigans by swapping from her 3,990g Sterling 70m rope to a 3360g 70m Beal opera; Another 1.33 pounds.

Individually, each piece of gear swap felt minor, but they all added up to a noticable difference. We both agree we didn't notice the rope weight difference except for during the approach.

We're all familiar that cams vary in size from company to company. Cam-parison.com illustrates that pretty well.

I think I found a pretty good mix of cams and sizes to optimize the most overlap between sizes for the companies I like to use (BD, WC, DMM, totem). For example, a red dragon is the smallest red cam, and the wild Country friend is the biggest red cam.

EDIT: I posted the wrong picture, but it's basically what I wanted. I use a blue totem, not a BD C4 0.3, and BD #3, not the dragon. Here's the link to what I found to be what I think is optimal.