r/tradclimbing

My "new" baseline for any multipitch trad route

My "new" baseline for any multipitch trad route

Old post: https://www.reddit.com/r/tradclimbing/comments/1s5rv4t/my_baseline_for_any_outdoor

I had used the same baseline multipitch setup for about a year or so prior to recent times. I wanted a few new things and decided to do an overhaul of everything.

I took the advice to up my 60cm sling count from 4 + 2 to 5 + 2, and dropped from 2x 120cm to just 1. I also went from 2 lockers + 1 nonlocker 'extra' carabiners to just a single HMS locker. My old HollowBlock was old, so i bought a Beal Jammy to replace it. I still bring my microtraxion from time to time, but that's objective specific.

I got some Z4's from size 0.3 to 0.75 and swapped those in. I found a stuck red BD C3 which conveniently can act as my doubling up with my black totem. I also got a DMM Dragon #1 cuz I like it. I swapped all my cam carabiners from Dyons to Aether Wires, and the gear side of all my slings are also aethers as well. I was a fan of my friend's Grivel Plume lockers, so I swapped out a few DMM lockers for a few of those.

u/i12drift — 11 days ago

Improving speed on multipitch routes

Just finished leading my first multipitch. It was 6 pitches, and it took about 6hrs of climbing. That's pretty slow, and we ended up rapping in the dark. All around not too bad, but I would love tips on how to speed up.

I noticed that I lost the most time routefinding and placing gear. I especially hated running out of gear on the taller pitches, and not anticipating what gear I'd use for the anchor. On pitch 5 I built with 3 okayish nuts and a .3 because I saved the wrong pieces (a 4 lol, a 3, and I think a 2?)

Any advice would be so appreciated.

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u/intentia — 11 days ago