I typically carry a 70m and a double rack, and I'm looking for a pack to pull double duty for 2-4 day backpacking trips (with a partner).
Looking for it to be able to carry 40 lbs max fairly comfortably, typically probably 25 or less
I live within an hour from Joshua tree, and would love to get into trad climbing after doing indoor for around a month and a half. How should I go about this? What gear do I need for it? I’d like to do lead climbing eventually, but how do I even start with top rope? Is an outdoor class just the best way?
Basically, I have finally been climbing trad long enough that some of my gear is showing significant wear.
The last one I posted, the consensus was no but how do you guys feel about this cam? One of the inner silver lobes has no more tension. Upon investigating further, I realized that The spring has come loose. Picture number two shows how the end of the spring is supposed to be threaded through a hole in the lobe. Picture number three shows how on the loose lobe does not have the wire threaded through it, and picture number four shows where that wire is currently sitting.
If I use pliers (rounded metal pliers for jewelry making so as to hopefully not damage the wire) I think I may be able to get that wire back through the hole in the lobe. However, I guess the question is should I? And would you feel safe climbing on a cam that has been fixed in this manner?
Additional info: I have a triple rack so nobody needs to warn me to not climb on it if I am feeling unsure about it. I have no intention of climbing on it right now. I'm not even sure I can rethread that wire. I will also say that the way that I found this out was by individually pressing on the lobes of my cams while going through a gear inspection before a trip this weekend. Just pulling the triggers. It looks like it works perfectly fine. So I suppose now I have to be a little bit more thorough about my gear checks. Maybe that information will help somebody else inspect their gear as well.
I have a moderate fear of falling however it feels the same as in the gym. I see most people they are comfortable with one but not the other. I have been projecting my first 5.9+ lead (heavily sandbagged finger crack “the horn” at pawtuckaway NH) and have taken some whips on cams. How to tackle this issue? More time in the gym? More time outside? I climb in the gym 3x a week and on trad or ice once a week.
I lead wi5 ice but my trad is pretty insignificant in comparison. I learned to lead on ice before i really learned to climb lead indoors even. So i think thats where my fear of falling whatsoever comes from. Any response greatly appreciated
Edit: really appreciate all the input
We booked a sea-cliff rock climb in the Faroe Islands for 31 July. They have an 8-person minimum and we are 2, so the trip only happens if we can fill 6 more spots.
No previous climbing experience needed. The operator brings all the gear, sets the anchors and runs every climb top-rope. They take complete beginners on this regularly.
It's the kind of day people remember for decades. Climbing a cliff face with the ocean directly below you and puffins on the rocks.
Cost per person works out around £50-60, split evenly across the group.
DM me if you'll be in the Faroes around then, or planning to be!
UPDATE: NEED 3 MORE PEOPLE NOW
Sells for around €20.
Titanium nut tool, 27g. Less than half the weight of a steel one.
Only a few grams heavier than an ultralight aluminum nut tool, but titanium is more durable and stronger.
Titanium is naturally corrosion-resistant, so it won't rust like the Black Diamond one does.
Just 3mm thick, so it's fairly slim and should be able to clean out brass micro nuts.
The head has two hooks, one of which can retrieve a cam that's walked too dep in a crack to reach by hand.
The tail fits the nuts on 13mm and 17mm nuts, and the tool doesn't really get in the way of the hanger while you're tightening.
The tail also has a 10mm striking surface, so it won't hurt when you tap it with your palm.
Turn around was like 1.5 weeks but maybe cuz I'm local and dropped them off. I love that they matched the old colors and marked when they sling was made w a sewn tab. You also know they are reslings because of the black border on the sling, kinda cool looking.
Moving to Estes Park in a few weeks sight unseen and I’d like to cut my teeth getting to know the area on some moderates. What are your favorite must-do climbs of all time in the area under 5.11? Preferably multi-pitch/trad.
Casual Route and Pervertical Sanctuary at Longs is high on the list along with the Loose Ends and Hot Licks on Lumpy Ridge.
Hey! So I just got into trad climbing recently and did a course which was brilliant and I learned a lot! I am however kind of confused about one thing I cant seem to find alot of solid answers on. In sport climbing its important to face the gate of the rope side carabiner away from your intended direction of travel to mitigate the risk of the rope laying over the gate in the event of a fall and the rope potentially becoming un clipped from that draw. My question is, does the same rule apply to the carabiner on the cams sling or an alpine draw?
This is John Dale on lead pulling through the crux on the FA. Nice little moderate route on a crag where most of the climbs are E1 or harder. I was resting a tendon injury so was just hanging out with the guys. The name is reference to the fact the three of us spent an hour huddling under a boulder that morning waiting out an intense electrical storm. Frankly we were surprised it eventually dried out enough to climb!
Anyone have any experience/insight to the Mammut Alpine Trad sling? Do you rack them up with one or two carabiners?
I wish they made them longer like the Metolius Equalizer.
I’m a novice leader still trying to improve my mental game and faith my placements. What are the pros and cons of just doing an aid climb on my gear at the crag with a top rope as a backup?
I just wanted to share a tiny tip for storage. I put all my nuts and cams into a single sling (up to ~3 inches). Cams go in size order. I kind of roll them up and wrap them really tight with a velcro strap that doubles back on itself. I also do this with my alpine draws to keep them from tangling. (See my very helpful green arrows). At the crag or car just hang the sling and pick what you need.
Some couple fun side notes from this picture
the pink and blue webbing was my dads when he was climbing in the 80s. Same story for the red nut on the right with old looking accessory chord. (I don’t climb with these things. They are just there for the positive vibes.)
6 helmets because I have 4 kids. Most of their stuff is in a backpack that they take to the gym.
Fun climb, first gear anchors. Last pitch was a blast.
I’ve had my climbing gear in tubs the last few years. Finally got my own place and it feels so nice to have it all organized and hanged up 😊
LMK what yall think and any tips much appreciated 🤙
Just stirring the pot and starting a convo on trad placements…
This was such a fun climb. Really makes me question the grades of some other climbs I’ve done here in the valley.
Edit: it might be worth noting one of the bolt hangers was spinning and you have to walk left to a ledge to rappel using a 40m rope