Image 1 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 2 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 3 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 4 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 5 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 6 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 7 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 8 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 9 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 10 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
Image 11 — T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!
▲ 479 r/MilitaryModelMaking+1 crossposts

T28 Super Heavy - Ready for Paint!

The build for my 1/35 Takom T28 Super Heavy Tank is now complete! I think this is the longest 1/35 build I’ve done so far. It’s taken almost exactly a month to complete (I don’t get a huge amount of time to model, but most kits take 1-2 weeks start to finish for me). Big wall of text incoming with my comments and thoughts about the build, and some recommendations for others tackling this build.

The T28 is a monstrous US tank from WW2. It was designed to be assembled, roll up to dug in enemy positions and destroy them. Then it would be disassembled and transported away. With almost a foot of frontal armour and a massive 105 mm gun, it weighed almost 100 tons. To spread this weight it was fitted with 4 sets of tracks. The outer set were removable for transport. The war ended during US development. Only 2 were built, and one survives to this day in the US. This tank has never been properly produced in 1/35 before so when Takom released this a few months back I was very excited.

As I’ve mentioned a lot in my other progress posts, I absolutely love this kit. I don’t think I’ve enjoyed building a kit as much as this one. It’s only been out for a couple of months so it has Takom’s latest engineering. Everything has gone together so easily and precisely.

Despite being generally quite a simple tank in terms of details of (essentially a rolling bunker with a few tools on the sides), it is quite complex due to its four track system. Like the real thing, Takom designed this kit so the outer tracks are removable. When I saw it announced, I had concerns that the side sponsons wouldn’t line up very well with the hull, and things may look a little wonky. I was worried further when I saw that the retaining pins holding them in place are really all you have to line them up (they are the 6 lumps along the sides of the hull), and that these are separate parts you attach yourself. I felt that this may leave room for error if they aren’t fitted in perfectly, but I had absolutely no issues! I dry fit all the pins in their locating holes along the upper hull and between the running gear as I cemented them to make sure it all lined up. It’s designed so well that the outer tracks are not glued in place and can be removed, but with the pins dry fit they are firmly in place. This will make painting much easier.

I simulated the heavy cast texture of the hull with some light dremel work and Tamiya putty. The front of the real thing is a foot thick, so I wanted to make the cast armor look rough, but reference photos show it’s actually quite smooth so I refrained from going too aggressive. u/dr_robonator helped me by sending some beautiful reference photos of the real thing. We were both impressed by the fit and finish of this tank, especially for a prototype, so I tried to make my model as tidy as I could. The side sponsons are also extremely thick (same as a Tiger I’s front) but are perfectly smooth in real life so I kept them as they are. They contrast nicely with the cast hull.

But this kit is already infamous for its enormously part-heavy running gear. You have 16 suspension bogies, 64 road wheels, 4 idlers, 4 sprockets, and around two dozen return rollers. But this is nothing compared to the 400 track links - with each link made up of 6 parts. The suspension and wheels was a breeze and I completed all of that in an evening or so. But the tracks … well, I did at least attempt the ones that come with the kit. I aimed to build 10, time it, and extrapolate that out to predict how long all 400 would take. After spending 20 minutes and only completing 6 links I gave up. Problem was, there wasn’t any aftermarket tracks available in the UK at the time. The only ones were 3D prints from a US website at £75 for the set. So I continued on with the build, and was delighted when a UK site, DN Studios, released their own version for £35! So I snapped these up and they arrived yesterday. 2 hours later and all 4 tracks were built!! Of course I haven’t built the US ones, but looking at their photos I much preferred how the DN Studios versions were designed. They use a simple end connector system and center guide horn. The US version looks like a pin has to be inserted into each link. This looks more delicate and harder to build - and depending on whether the end connectors can rotate, might not look very good. Perhaps someone who built these versions could enlighten me. I’m not usually a fan of 3D tracks, but the ones I received are extremely tough and heavy so they sit very naturally. Somehow, I didn’t break a single part in all the 400 links, so I probably have enough spares to build another half of a track run. Unfortunately, these tracks are unique to the T28 🤣

My only “complaints” with the T28 kit, which are only small, is with the cranes. There are two, and they have a simulated gear and pulley system inside that requires you to loop a small length of thread into to replicate the cables. I don’t like using thread for cables as it looks fuzzy when painted, and the instructions weren’t clear on exactly how your meant to thread it. Instead, I opted for .4 mm wire. It is totally smooth and slightly out of scale, but it’s the smallest I had and is passable it in my opinion. Fortunately, the amazing reference photos of the real T28 showed me how to thread the wire.

In addition there are the photo etch light guards. This is a double edged sword, because as many Sherman builders will know, plastic light guards are too thick and usually look very bad. But with this tank, the PE guards sit right on the front corners of the tank and are super delicate. I’ve already knocked and reglued two. I just know this will give me a lot of grief when painting. (To be fair this is more of a me problem as I’m not very gentle 🤣).

The completed model just looks absolutely insane. The four tracks grab your attention, and I think once it’s painted it’ll be the most impressive kit on my shelf. Can’t recommend this kit enough. Perhaps I’m biased because it’s one of my favourite tanks, and one that hasn’t been made into a kit properly before, but I’ve loved it. The value for money is remarkable. I think I’ll buy a second one…

Next up is painting this thing. I’ll be depicting it during its trials phase, so a simple olive drab paint job. It wouldn’t have been beaten to too bad as it had very few miles put on it, so I’ll keep the weathering very light. I’ve left the cranes, tracks, and wheels, .50 cal, and side sponson’s removable to make painting easier.

Anyway that’s all for now. Next update will be in the spray booth!

Cheers for taking a look 👍

u/iCastleBravo — 5 days ago

Work continues on the T28

The main form of the T28 is done. The gun is in, and all texturing and weld beads are finished. Some very helpful reference photos from u/dr_robonator shows that the T28 was built to a very high standard, so I’ve tried to replicate with precise welds and relatively smooth texturing in the cast hull. The armour covering the tracks is almost perfectly smooth on the real one, so I left them as they are here. Pretty much everything that would be permanently attached to the hull is done. Currently working on the suspension, which actually isn’t too bad as I was able to finish half of the 16 bogies in a couple of hours. Once the suspension is complete, I’ll then add all of the smaller and more delicate details like spare tracks, pioneer tools, the two cranes and .50 cal up on the gun ring. I leave things like this off till last for access, but also because I’ll end up accidentally breaking them off while handling the model 🤣

As mentioned in my last post this has just been a dream to build. Everything has gone together flawlessly and at every point I’m enjoying it. No part of it so far has been a drag (not speaking about the tracks yet… ☠️). It has built up into a true monster, and now I’m at the point where I’m figuring out how I’ll paint it. Lots of parts have been kept removable for painting. This includes the large air intake covers on the rear top, all the wheels, the cupolas, sprockets, gun and mantlet, plus more that I haven’t built yet like the cranes.

Cheers for taking a look

u/iCastleBravo — 21 days ago
▲ 141 r/MilitaryModelMaking+1 crossposts

Building the Mighty T28

Takom’s new 1/35 T28 Super Heavy Tank arrived a few days ago, so all projects have been put on hold until this is complete as it’s a bit of a dream build for me. The only other kit of the T28 was from Dragon, but it was very inaccurate (particularly by using Sherman tracks, making the entire thing too wide), so I’ve patiently waited until another brand made one, and my favourite, Takom, released this just this past month or so.

It is an almighty project to build. It’s essentially three kits combined in one. The tank can be split into 3 parts - the main hull, and each of the outer track runs. It sits on four sets of tracks, with the outer sets contained inside thickly armoured sponsons. These could be removed in real life for transport or to fit over bridges and other tight areas. They were then joined together and towed behind the tank. This kit replicates this. The hull and sponsons aren’t too much work, but the tracks and running gear are armour modellers hell. Each set of tracks has 4 suspension bogies, so 16 wheels per track, plus a sprocket and idler, times four tracks to make 64 wheels, 16 bogies, 4 sprockets, and 4 idlers. But it gets even worse! There are 100 links per track, and each track link is made up of 6 parts … for a total of 2,400 parts in the tracks ALONE! There is a company making 3D printed tracks, but they are experiencing a back log so it’s looking like I’ll be doing this the hard way.

Other than that, it’s an amazing kit. The engineering is so precise, the proportions are spot on and details are fantastic. I’m having a great time with textures on the heavy cast hull too. In real life this hull was a foot thick at the front, so I want to give it a very heavy appearance. I was planning on texturing the sponson sides, which are as thick as the front of a Tiger I, but in real life they are perfectly smooth so I’ve left them as they are. It also gives quite a nice contrast between the immense cast hull.

As an aside, if anyone has any close up shots of the real tank I’d love to have them. The only walk around I can find online are very low resolution.

Anyway, thanks for taking a look! Back to it.

u/iCastleBravo — 28 days ago

Screen time passcode randomly and can’t be removed

A couple of weeks ago I finally updated my iPhone 15 Pro to the new iOS. It is currently on iOS 26.5. Soon as I did this I now have a screen time passcode for random stuff on my iPhone, browsing some subreddits, using some apps sites etc and changing some settings on my phone. I didn’t set this code, have never set this code, and didn’t even know what screen time was before this. The problem is, I can’t reset/remove the code. As I didn’t set it, I have no idea what the code could be. I click forgot code, I enter my AppleID, and it just counts as another failed attempt.

As an aside, could there be any link with this to the new age verification we have to do in the UK? The two don’t seem directly linked but I haven’t properly completed it as just says error when I scan my credit card and I don’t want to upload a photo of myself to use my (once) £1,000 phone I own. But I’m wondering if this hasn’t been completed, iPhones utilise the screen time lock to stop you using certain features? A couple of times I have used a credit card to age verify and it passes, only to come back a few days later with the “Confirm you are 18” message in settings. After it has passed, nothing seems to change but it could be that it’s not actually working as the message does come back.

This is getting really annoying now as in many ways my phone has just become a brick. Again, this only started once I updated to the new iOS. Never had issues before, so it’s something that update did. Does anyone know what can be done here? As far as I’ve searched it seems there isn’t really any options. I can’t restart with a new AppleID as I use my phone to help run my company and have tens of thousands of photos, documents etc.

Thanks in advance!

reddit.com
u/iCastleBravo — 1 month ago

Some quick photos of the current stage of this T-10M. It is my first 1/72 kit, (normally I build 1/35, sometimes 1/35) so it is quite a different experience. But I’m having a great time with it! It has been painted, pin washed, and received some oil treatment to create some faded looking paint and boost the contrast up slightly. Each stage takes very little time as it is so small. I kept the paint very light to counter its small size making it look too dark. Next up is chipping, which I’m still figuring out how to approach at this scale 😰

Photos aren’t great as was a quick setup without proper lighting. Hopefully good enough.

Thanks for taking a look 🙂

u/iCastleBravo — 2 months ago