Improving speed on multipitch routes

Just finished leading my first multipitch. It was 6 pitches, and it took about 6hrs of climbing. That's pretty slow, and we ended up rapping in the dark. All around not too bad, but I would love tips on how to speed up.

I noticed that I lost the most time routefinding and placing gear. I especially hated running out of gear on the taller pitches, and not anticipating what gear I'd use for the anchor. On pitch 5 I built with 3 okayish nuts and a .3 because I saved the wrong pieces (a 4 lol, a 3, and I think a 2?)

Any advice would be so appreciated.

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u/intentia — 11 days ago

Bugaboos conditions update request

Heyo,

Still waiting on approval into the climbing FB group- can someone let me know what current col/ice conditions are for the Pigeon W Ridge approach?

Thanks!

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u/intentia — 2 months ago

How to approach film emulation grain & contrast in an authentic 90's way

Hey all

So I am fully aware that I can apply a contrast curve before my grain in, say, a Filmbox-powered emulation. My question is whether or not that is authentic to the way films in the 90's were done. I am aware that they were processed photochemically, but obviously they did so in a way that could add or remove contrast depending on the look they wanted.

When I add contrast after my grain, often I get a really muddy, blotchy, artifacted grain result that makes everything look like it was in a punk or emo video.

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u/intentia — 3 months ago

Anybody notice the weird AI noise reduction in Nolan's 'The Odyssey?'

It was present on a lot of the beach and open field scenes. I thought, "no way," since IMAX films are dubbed over due to the cameras being horribly loud; turns out Nolan did use live audio.

Specifically, Matt Damon's character had the worst of it. I can't describe the sound other than it sounds just like when you have Davinci Resolve's voice isolation feature dialed all the way up. Sounds like those AI voiceover ads.

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u/intentia — 3 months ago
▲ 16 r/editors

Director wants 1.5tb upload of .R3D files to Dropbox. How can I make things faster?

I shot about 4.5 hours of LQ and ELQ R3D for a client who is only taking digital delivery. The file size comes down to about 1.5tb, which Dropbox is saying will still take 1-3 days. My internet also cuts out randomly due to, I think, packet loss? That's not a question for here though.

It's a shot in the dark, but is this normal and is there any way I can speed up times? One of their specs is 4K. I have thought about transcoding to 4K Prores or finding a way to downgrade the LQ to ELQ, but this also may take time.

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u/intentia — 3 months ago

Would you write for a Mormon foundation?

Obviously an odd question.

I am a filmmaker and a Reformed Baptist (I know, I know, a fake). I have been presented with an opportunity to make films about Christians in every day life. Sounds like a wonderful chance to use my creative gifts to further the Gospel in a beautiful way, no?

The group putting out this contract holds to a false gospel similar to JWs or Mormons. No Christ divinity, no Trinity, no propitiation. Pretty seriously wrong stuff.

If I was just working for them to advertise a shoe, I don't think I'd care. Early Christians conducted burials for pagans, and I think we'd agree that a Christian may (and perhaps should) work for unbelievers without issue. However I am hesitant because I fear that the end product may lead unbelievers to the wrong gospel. Here are some facts:

  1. They are not directly tying themselves to the project. This is a standalone thing that will have no direct mention of their group and is designed solely to encourage unbelievers to, as I quote, "pick up their Bibles." You only find a mention of their foundation and a link in project website's About page.
  2. They have given me creative freedom. They ask that the film remains general (not theologically deep) as it is meant for outreach, and that it mentions Jesus and Christianity. They consider themselves a denomination of Christianity (though they are not), and so therefore just want this project to be a Christian film.

I might be overthinking this, as it would be a great opportunity to evangelize among this group, and to evangelize outwardly to the general public. With that said, how far down the pipeline am I still liable for the misleading of another? Feels like a crazy person question.

Would Jesus have made a table for a pagan if He knew that the pagan would have dinners and encourage paganism around it? Should a Christian earn for a man who is actively using the money to promote sinfulness?

At the end of the day I need prayer and a simple understanding here. I wish to not sin. This otherwise is an amazing opportunity that would change my family's life financially.

What are your thoughts?

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u/intentia — 4 months ago

Are there any professionals willing to help me calibrate this panel remotely?

Hey everyone,

I have a modest setup that is by no means a professional suite, but I live in a relatively remote corner of the US where most of my peers just trust their macbook screens in production. I've used ColourSpace before and would like to again, but the process took me like an entire two days to figure out. I don't have that time right now, but the cal needs to be updated.

Being far from cities, I also can't find a technician nearby.

Is there any way I can chat with or video call someone who can talk me through the process?

Thanks

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u/intentia — 4 months ago