I have 2 whirlpool dishwashers in the same building
Both no heat
Element has continuity
Thermal fuse has continuity
Neither are showing 120v, both showing like 14-30 volts when heater is selected to be turned on
This tells me control not sending voltage to element?
Anything else? Find it odd that it’s 2 suites in the same building same floor same model
I had good results with emery cloth but for whatever reason I can’t find it anymore
I’ve been using some 240-300 grit sandpaper very lightly to get the gunk off but I wonder if it’s causing the shafts to wear
I’ve had more than I’d like lately calls where I go back and the brand new rollers I put on are all funky and brown colored again, and I know sometimes I get a bad string of rollers
But now I’m second guessing if maybe the sandpaper is too harsh?
I’ve attached a photo of a shaft, obviously I’m not sanding it down, that’s from roller wear, but this is how clean I get the shafts, I often clean them after with wd40, wipe dry, and then I waffle between high heat dryer bearing grease, and nothing.
If we use nothing, sometimes it comes back
If we use grease, it’s quiet but it attracts hair and dust
🤷🏽♂️
Help me obI wan kenobi
Bot freezer
No ice buildup
No frost buildup
No water below crispers
No ice bottom of freezer
Good airflow
Coils cleaned with vacuum as well as blowing dust off with compressed air
No matter what settings the temp is at (freezer currently -3, fridge at 40) no change
These settings were not always what it was set at, we’ve been playing with it for about a month seeing if it matters what we set it to, it does not
Edit: I am an appliance tech AND this is my fridge. Ai flags “no dit yourselvers in this sub” when I try and hit submit, so I’m putting this in hopes that it fucks right off
Model number CFLE1011MW2
I can follow the instructions on the tech sheet to get it to go into diagnostic (what a fucking pain) but none of the boards, nor does the control panel have any sort of led or indicator of any kind.
The tech sheet says “based on how the legs light up will tell you different error codes” blah blah blah
There are no LEDs on this machine
What the fuckkkkk do I do
Bonus actual reason for callout:
Dryer spins but no heat
Washing machine will lock but then the board just clicks over and over but no water ever fills
I have 240 at the machine
Howdy, I have another Amana top load where the drain is constantly on, that old chestnut, but this time there’s an added variable so I thought I’d ask the experts.
NTW4519JW2
Cycles work fine, until they are complete, after about a second, drain pump engages and runs until the lid is opened, then it stops
When the lid is closed it DOES NOT continue, it also does NOT happen throughout the cycle, it ONLY happens at the cycle complete stage
So very similar to the “drain pump always on” issue, but this is my first time dealing with this variation, so I’m just looking for confirmation that this is the same problem manifesting in a similar but different way
Thanks yall!
Bought at Home Depot, about a year in whenever customer uses water dispenser it’ll dribble for 10 seconds. They spoke with Home Depot who said “no certified Frigidaire techs in area, we will just buy your fridge out so you shut the fuck up about it” so customer got entire fridge bought out due to this, and while I was there to fix something else they mentioned it.
Just wondering if there’s any service bulletins or what the trick to these are
It’s a super nice fridge in a super nice house for a …. Customer with a super….high personality….. so I’d rather not take this on if it’s going to be a royal pain in the butt, which in my past experience with other water dispensers can be
Help me obi wan techobi, you’re my only hope
They called and want me to warranty a beko fridge, sounds like bad water valve, looks like a pretty standard fridge, just figured I’d get a lay of the land first
They called and want me to warranty a beko fridge, sounds like bad water valve, looks like a pretty standard fridge, just figured I’d get a lay of the land first
It’s super weird that it would do it again right? Especially after Wp says they fixed the issue with their new boards?
M#WTW4957W0 SER#CD1602041
Edit, board was changed in MAY not march, but I can’t edit post titles
I took a video, but there’s what looks like a lot of grease/oil, which would be bad if it was a transmission top load, but I don’t have a lot of experience with these GEs.
So above that black wheel looks like is a sprinted gear that a shifter moves up and down depending on cycle I’m guessing
I don’t k ow how to post videos but in my video you can just see the shifter and the gear going down, waiting a few second, then going up, waiting a few seconds, repeat this process for about 60 seconds, then turn off.
I’m guess gearbox is failing and stripped by the oil and grease cast off around the interior, but what else should I be looking at?
When I look up parts I don’t see a gasket or anything, just the float and the float switch available, and of course no pictures of the float
Can anyone confirm if there’s only the 2 parts or if there’s other parts required like a gasket?
240 in, 120 out to broil, continuity on fuse and element, suspect blown relay, but we don’t do board repair just replace
Board NLA, looking to find one that’ll ship to Canada
Any of you rock stars help me out?
I believe it’s part WP9761595 but double check
My work
Thanks bros!
Select cycle, hold start, display shows 3, 2, 1, then err.
No error codes
Just beeps and sits there doing nothing
Obviously doesn’t show on any error code lists.
Has 240, flipped breaker anyway
Very odd, help
WHat can I do to keep them sane? Last year same thing, we tried coloring, puzzles, video games, nothing kept the adhd at bay, what are some things I’m missing that would help?
Has a slight squeak, not squeel, just a little chirp, every once in a while
Does not work when clothes are added, fills, won’t agitate
No oil underneath
No belt shavings
Belt isn’t shiny
Runs fine
Shifts fine
During diagnostic and test mode works fine
I’m suspecting tranny is going, thoughts?
On auto dry, timer will not advanced so first thought is obviously timer issue
On the cool down section of whatever cycle, the heater stays on the entire time, no cycling on 60 seconds, off x seconds etc
In the wrinkle prevent section, timer DOES advance, but heater stays on entire time, which as far as I can tell it should not be on at all, but the language is odd on the Amana literature
On timed dry it appears as though the timer is either advancing very slowly or not at all
So at this point I think it’s obvious that we need to replace the timer, I’m just concerned that if the heater is running 100% while the dryer is on that there may be another issue and I don’t want to miss it
Canadian here, as some of you know we recently had our large distributor buy our small distributor and since then it’s been pretty shit here for parts, to no one’s surprise.
One thing I’m finding difficult is finding part subs, used to be I’d put in a part, say W10779716, and it would pop up, whatever price and info, and then at the bottom would be subs for it, often generic or supco or jobber parts that were way cheaper
Since the merger that information is gone, I know those parts are still available, if I happen to remember one and put the subbed part in directly it’ll show up, but since they’re no longer linked, I’m finding it very frustrating.
No lights, no sounds, no screens, no clocks
Microwaves are scary I know, is there a simple check here or there I can do, maybe I get lucky and it’s a fuse ?
Model number HMC87152UC/05
TIA