r/appliancerepair

So here I am, got into where I need to be looking. The fan connectors are shot but at this point I'm thinking I should order a new fan since I've got this far.

Pic 1 you can see the fan wires going right and behind the grey puttytape.

Pic 2: The connectors. For some reason the purple wire leads to a cut end. Not sure if this was always that way, can't imagine the tech cut it.

Pic 3&4: The burnt connectors. I'm told it'll be hard to find these exact connectors.

Pic 5&6: My issue! The wire colours on either side of the connectors are not identical or colour! But 8 wires either side...

So my only hope is to find the connectors?

Electrician accidentally wired my Legrand Arteor with Netatmo smart light switch incorrectly and blew the switch. Rather than throw it out I thought I’d attempt to repair. What’s the best approach to identifying the likely faulty components and testing? Top side of the board looks fine.

I have an old style fridge with an ice box. I don’t really use it, that’s why it got this bad. It’s been a few years, I just never open it. The door doesn’t open anymore, it’s frozen shut. The picture was taken before it froze shut. I’m not sure what to do. It’s starting to melt, I think? I don’t know. I’m worried. There’s drips of water coming from it. How do I fix this? My landlords will go feral if they see what I’ve done to this thing.

GE front load gas dryer. Trying to take door off so I can replace belt, but can’t for the life of me disconnect this one wire connector in order to do that. Please help with detailed description of how to release connector. Thank you!

I have a Samsung fridge (RF22K9381SR/AA) that is having troubles holding temp. It’ll go above 40 degrees multiple times a day. No codes are shown on the panel. It seems like a fair assumption that the black blob should not look like that. Is that a part of the defrost heater? Would this be worth the repair? Around 10 years old.

I have a 12yo kenmore elite fridge with a bottom freezer. It started cooling poorly. I cleared out the coil in the back which was packed with dust (it's been cleaned probably 5 years back). Compressor is warm and making noise, fan is running, but it's not cooling down. Further inspection of the rear of the fridge there may be a corroded pipe on the right side of the compressor at the bottom of the loop. See pics.

https://imgur.com/a/LKrEm3i

The fridge is definitely out of warranty. Is it worth trying to get a service out to repair, or is this a replace?

Edit: few more details. The condenser coil (rear) is not warm. The expansion tank looking thing above the compressor was cold. No LEDs on the PCB. Hit test mode, could hear fans running, temp of air from the rear is 40f or so. Compressor got louder and louder and stopped with 6 led blinks (current trip) while in test mode.

We need a new washer and apparently not all brands (only 2 I'm told) give you the option to change the direction of how the door opens. That means I need to put my washer on the left side of the dryer, It's on the right side now. Would it make more sense to add onto the actual PVC drain pipe and extend the pipe closer to the washer, or just get a longer drain hose from the washer. The hose would end up being about 43 inches long from the washer to the drain pipe, as is. The drain pipe is 38 inches from the ground. The NEW washer would have the door opening from right to left, the current Electrolux dryer I can swap the door to open from left to right once I move it. It just seems like it would be aggravating to have to go around the washer door every time I put clothes in the dryer So that's why I would want it on the left

Hey all,

I recently bought this range from a scratch and dent store. The stove top works but the oven will shut down when used. Here's a video of the behavior. I've had an electrician out, even replaced the breaker to be safe, but dice. I took it back to the store and had them check it out, and it worked fine for them. Who is leading me in the wrong direction here? Does anyone have any thoughts on what the problem may be?

Thanks in advance!

Link of behavior

2 year old GE dishwasher started leaking and it looks like there is a small pinprick hole right where the water is dripping. Could be that the water is just coming from a poor seal of the large sump assembly. Is this repairable or should I start shopping for a new dishwasher?

This sound started out of no where during the filling and spinning cycles.

Any idea what might be causing this?

I tilted the washer back and took off splutch assembly, all gears looked fine and teeth looked good. I reset the washing machine and still making the same noise when agitating. And tips/help/videos would be appreciated!

Was gonna order leg locking nuts for my whirlpool roofed washer because each time I level after 2-4 washes it back to being loud. However when attempting to remove the leg it appears it does not fully come off, and around the leg is a threaded plastic.
Any ideas how I can correct this issue?

anyone knows whats going on？ much appreciated with any ideas or advices

Everything I find online tells me about the top being more warm than the bottom but I have the reverse .

My bottom shelf in the fridge where I keep my milk and most perishable items is getting to 41F temps in a glass of water. 46F air temps.

The top of the fridge is about 37F

I initially had a frozen Evap and broken fan so I tried an aftermarket fan and that was bad since always on and pushing warm air while defrosting. Replaced that with an OEM fan and now it turns on and off and passes the 75% load test. I also replaced the defrost timer? On the evap. Nothing freezes over now.

In cooling test mode 0095 (I believe for ff) it shows Evap temps and it went to 11 before I just let it try to cool the fridge off , maybe gets colder but that tells me Evap thermistor is good, cooling charge is good, compressor is good and both fans compressor and Evap right?

I noticed a little ice dam in the freezer by the fan that is was working so I took it apart and steamed that icicle and checked behind and everything was fine. Tested both fans at 75% and heard/saw then come on. I've tested ff,fz,Im,condenser fan 75% speed and all work but not sure rpms?

After I steamed the freezer and turned back on I heard some weird noises and checked errors and it said 0105 for compressor fan not reaching speed but it sounded like defrost timer area was making noise... I powered it down and turned it back on and the noise and code was gone, maybe a fluke.

I replaced my humidity sensor too because it was always in the 80% + and now it seems to be more accurate. That was OE from GE too.

Both thermistor I have not replaced seeing as how they are really close to the temps I measure , fridge off by like 3F air temp on top shelf near the sensor location.

I used a condenser brush and cleaned all the dust off the coil and then even used condenser foam from simple green and waited a while and then steamed it all off.

What else can I do/check. I had my water heater heat pump go and fridge at the same time. I refuse to spend 2k for a fridge and rather save 700-1k by not buying a dinged one that's the same size with extended warranty. Thank you

Solved: Just needed to clean the caked on dust around the blower wheel fan blades.

I appreciate all of the suggestions from everyone!

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Before blindly making repairs, does anyone recognize what’s likely causing this sound/vibration?

Context:

Bought this dryer new, and I’ve had it for about 6 years. It started making this vibrating sound recently (video). It immediately happens when it begins running with or without anything inside. Placing weight on top, like a blanket or clothes, dulls the sound a bit. It continues to dry the clothes just fine and doesn’t get hot.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

https://ibb.co/bjPBsbKS https://ibb.co/0RnJVpZP https://ibb.co/hRVjfz4S https://ibb.co/jk4csPdq https://ibb.co/SXKTB5KL

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction before I pay to get an engineer out.

It's an LG American style fridge freezer, one of the big side by side ones with the ice and water in the door. Inverter Linear compressor, ThinQ / wifi, plumbed into the mains. Model's a GSX960NSVZ, about 5 years old, UK mains.

The problem is the ice maker's stopped running its cycle on its own. Here's the odd bit though: if I turn it off, hit the reset, then push the little test lever by hand, it does the whole thing perfectly. Fills with water, freezes it, drops the ice, no drama. So it makes ice fine when I force it manually. It just won't kick off the fill and harvest cycle by itself any more.

Everything else seems OK. Fridge and freezer are holding temp fine, display's showing freezer at minus 21 and fridge at plus 2. The manual harvest working start to finish tells me the mould, the water valve and the motor are all doing their job. And the water dispenser's working normally too, so the mains supply and the door line are clearly fine.

Things I've already checked: the ice maker's own on/off switch is definitely set to on, and like I said, a manual reset plus a lever push gives me a full cycle every single time.

Any ideas what'd stop it triggering automatically when it's obviously capable of the whole cycle by hand?