I guess technically it runs, but it doesn’t clean anything. I tried clearing out the water recirculating pump (?) as I saw a video on youtube that fixed it for others but mine still seems to not want to work. We just moved into this house so I have no idea how old it might be or when it stopped working correctly. The arms just refuse to spin
I’ve never heard this noise before tonight. It’s a whirlpool model WRF767SDHZ00. Not sure the year, but I’ve had it since we bought the house in 2021.
Noticed a loud noise a few days ago coming from the basement. Went down to check it out and my washer sounds like its getting ready to take off. Any ideas as to what's the issue? Possible bearing shocks or spider arm? Or all of the above? Lol
I’m trying to replace the infinite switch on my GE Spectra stove/oven. I’ve confirmed the right switch with the model number for my stove, but now after taking off the control panel…it looks different. The first three switches are identical to the one I ordered, but the 4th one..the one I need to replace looks different!? Why? Can I use the switch I ordered, or do I need to get a different switch?? (The photo shows the 3rd and 4th switch. The switch with my thumb on it looks different from 1-3)
Trying to repair my 12 year old LG WT1101CW top load washing machine that gave an LE error. I am trying to replace the hall sensor but the rotor assembly is stuck after removing the center nut. Unable to pull out by hand or even basically pry out. Have tried rubber mallet on it to loosen up any crud stuck. Tried using a gear puller but it's much too wide for it. Any other thoughts or ideas to get this thing off so I can replace the hall sensor underneath?
(Photo of front of washer is when I first got it… I didn’t have a current photo.)
I am really struggle to remove the cream colored housing of the PCB boards from the metal front panel. I see multiple tabs but they are not releasing. Any suggestions? It’s an LG top loader WT7305CW
Hello all.
I have a small undercabinet fridge.
inside the door there is a space to hold some bottles. The bottles are held in place by a transparent plastic bar. The bar itself is held to the door by sloting itself on small bumps that are molded into the door frame itself.
After years of use and because I probably put bottle with a slightly too big circumference in it these molding have broken clean off the door.
I am looking for suggestions to fix this.
I don't think just glueing the part is going to do any good.
I though about "nailing" or more efficiently screwing them back in but the inside of the door seems hollow with only some foam in it so not much structure to hold the screws and then support the force on the bar once bottles will be put back in. Also with screws it is probable that the plastic bar will be much harder to slot in the repaired molding as the screw will always pop out a bit I think.
I am thinking maybe using some king of wooden dowels, clean the hole by emptying the foam in the hole area but the question remains of how to make the dowels stay in place and hold the force of the bar loaded with the bottles...
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Recently moved into a new unit that has this dishwasher. I use rinse aid to combat hard water deposits caused by very hard water in my area. So, after moving in, I unscrewed the cap, filled the compartment up with rinse aid, and screwed the cap back on. After 2 months of dishwasher cycles, the compartment is still full, and I don’t think any rinse aid ever gets dispensed as dishes come out covered in deposits (and they did not at my previous unit). Is it possible that something is clogged, or that I’m using it incorrectly?
Ok my insignia washer is having some issues and I need help. So yesterday my trailer park people turned our water off without notice. I tried to start a load of laundry. About 30 min later I went to check on it and it had an error message. I was doing blankets so I assumed it bunched together and errored out (happened before). I started it again, error message again. Then I watched it and noticed there was not water going in it. Check the sink and yep they turned the water off. Got turned back on later that day. Well today I noticed that I heard water running even though I didn't start it. I looked and the water was filled to the top. I turned the washer on and off over and over and water kept coming. Flipped the breaker, still kept coming even when it was off. Finally had the turn the water valves going to the washer to make it stop. I think there's something wrong with the washer, and the water being off and it error message yesterday made it break today. Need advice on how to repair it. Insignia model NS-TWM41WHBA
We just bought our first home and the gas oven (GE) wasn’t working. I removed the knobs and front panel to see if it was just an issue with built up residue and this was sitting on top of the insulation, not connected to anything. A quick google search says it’s a range side manifold bracket, but does anyone know where it’s supposed to go?
Help Please - this is a Samsung stacked dryer, model #Samsung dv22n6800hw/a2.
What is this horrible sound?
Is it the blower? the Belt? Is it dangerous? Help please.
LG WM4000HWA front-load smart washing machine.
Ran a load of laundry today and it dumped the entire load of water on the floor.
Ran another load to check what's happening. As soon as it starts to fill up, it pours out of the entire left side of the washer. Almost like it's just coming down the entire left wall of the washer.
Any ideas on what to fix?
The washer started leaking from the tub down on to the transmission. Determined it was a bad tub seal after watching a few videos and decided to give it a go on trying to repair it.
I’ve got it disassembled down to the tub and the transmission but I can’t figure out where to go from here to access where the transmission and the tub are joined.
It looks like this unit might not actually have a tub seal ring?
Does the whole transmission need to come out?
If thoroughly clean it and reassemble will that possibly mitigate any leaking?
Is it worth my time and money to try to have it repaired or should I start considering a replacement?
I prefer to repair vs replace, I appreciate older simple machines vs newer tech, and it works perfectly well otherwise. Thanks!
Amana washer not agitating when on wash mode, it makes this clicking sound. Anyone know why it’s doing that and should I do to fix it? Thank you
Hi, I have a whirlpool electric oven. Last week there was a pop and smoke. I dug in and found that the baking element practically exploded. I found the oem replacement and swapped it out. But it still isnt heating. The broiler works fine, the burners work fine, I replaced the fuses, the main control board doesnt have any kind of burn marks or anything. I dont know what else to do. Any ideas?
Hello and thanks for looking,
We have a Samsung RF28R7351DT/AA refrigerator. The water dispenser has progressively gotten worse and worse and on Thursday night I replaced the water filter case assembly to no avail.
Background: we started noticing issues with the dispenser about 3 months ago. It used to work every time you would press it, then you would press it and get a buzzing sound and no water flowing out. Over time it got even worse, 5-10 pushes and buzzes before you'd get water coming out.
Weirdness: when we would water the lawn, the dispenser started working perfectly each time, so I thought maybe the lower water pressure was helping. Another side note, we've never used the water filter for the fridge and it's been working great for years. Also, the ice dispenser maker and dispenser works great (I actually had to replace the auger motor recently).
So I thought, I'm gonna put in a filter because it might reduce the water pressure enough to help. I installed it, and about a cup of water came out before it stopped flowing. Then, it just died completely. The buzzing sound became very faint and no matter how many times you pressed it, no water would flow. I removed the filter, still no luck.
Recently: I replaced the entire Samsung water filter case assembly with a new one (DA82-02870A). And I put in the filter.A half cup of water came out for about a two seconds before stopping again. Now we just hear the buzzing again.
Any thoughts on what to do next? This thing has given us so much trouble.
Thanks a lot for any advice.
Hello Community, I have Kenmore side by side fridge. It was few days that there was a leaky water from the fridge, found frozen water at the bottom inside and things were getting soggy, so looked up some YouTube video and removed panel, unclogged the frozen drain. Now the freezer is not freezing anymore, there is no frosting on condenser coils (see picture attached). Condenser fan seems to be working as well.
At a loss what’s the fix, any ideas on this.
Thanks in advance.
I have been struggling to remove the gearcase in my washing machine for the past few days. I have seen multiple videos and no one seems to be struggling this much. I have removed absolutely everything I can see and have sprayed the top with WD40 penetrate to try to loosen it. I have also stuck a 2x4 in resting on the top of the gearcase to hit it with a hammer as well as yanking on it from underneath. yet it will not budge.
at my wits ends with this damn fill tube freezing. lg lsxs26326s. apparently it is a common thing with these refrigerators and the water valve is usually the culprit. Not mine, changed it and the water still stays at the very tip of the fill valve and freezes. temperature is above zero degrees. i have to manually clear it out with a little pick in order for water to fill the ice tray and within two hours it’s frozen again. Lg makes the fill tube heater element un serviceable, and the suggestion is to BUY A WHOLE NEW DOOR. Absolutely ridiculous. Is there Anyone out there experiencing this. I am about to buy an external heater and wrap the ice water line that enters the top left door hinge, run the power cable across the top of the fridge and plug it in behind the fridge. i want to rip my hair out with this damn thing.