u/kniephaus

Hey so I'm still getting used to using the canvas.. I'm running into an issue when setting a print to do a layer color change. I just sent a print over to change colors halfway through and it skipped the color change and printed in the original color only. I also noticed it did not print the prime tower that the slicer instructed it to. The tower was set well within the bounds of the print bed and I also turned off the option to automatically switch to another roll if one runs out because I had this happen on another print as well where it picked the wrong color to resume with after a pause was initiated. I'm not sure why it's not printing the prime tower or if that's just something it only does if there is a same layer color change? Either way I don't know why it didn't just pause itself if it couldn't load the correct color during the change since I turned off the automatic refill option or whatever it's called where it chooses to resume with a filament of the same parameters when there is an issue or one runs out. Any help on this would be much appreciated. For reference I have tested this before to print 4 different colors on the same layer and it did print a prime tower when I did that.

Just getting used to my Canvas and I've had some odd issues with it just choosing its own filament as it decides to. I've synced my filaments and double checked that I had sent the correct commands at least as far as the normal slicer settings go, no g-code manipulation. On this latest print I had two colors that were set to swap at one stage and before that I had to do a pause in order to add some pieces of metal into my print that would be printed over so that magnets could stick. It was set to go from a beige, pause during beige, then after being manually restarted continue with beige, and then auto swap a bit later for brown. It did start with the beige but then just decided to swap to a black I had on a different number reel and then never switched to anything after that first pause.. Any tips as to why it would do that?

I'm basically a complete beginner to chess but I've really been enjoying going through the learning puzzles on lichess.org. I've gotten to the point where they have you force mate with two knights against one pawn. I've been going through each of these many times until I have an understanding of the moves they want you to play but this one had me more confused so I looked up a bit about it. This obviously brought me to the explanation of the Troitsky line. It seems like the pawn isn't blocked until it is well past this line though and the mate is still forced in the end. It can however be taken by a knight if it makes its first move of the game either by one or two spaces which I also understand you don't want to do in order to bypass a stalemate. Can anyone explain to me why this game still works if the pawn is past the line before blocking it or do I just not understand the Troitsky line and how it works? Every time I look it up online it says it isn't possible..

Sorry I'm sure some people are going to think this is extreme and/or excessive but I rather like the idea of having a completely reset-able game using the removable stickers and thought about just double sleeving the ability cards and placing the stickers for enhancements on the outside of the inner sleeve over its designated spot for each card. Sleeve Kings have sleeves made just for this to use in conjunction with their standard sleeves. I wondered if anyone has tried this before or if it would just look weird or blurry having them double sleeved like that? I've done this with the map where I frame it in a cheap frame and place the location stickers on the glass and it actually looks pretty cool but I didn't have another sheet of plastic laid over them, haha.

I have a 2001 Civic LX sedan that I'm trying to track down a water leak that's reaching the floor and pooling on the driver side. I can see where it's trickling in but can't see exactly from where. The trickle I found is coming from what is either the front left fender or the windshield but not sure which. It's higher up than the hood release lever connection but I can't see all the way up in there because it's so high up..

My question is, could this be coming from the moulding on the sides of the windshield or do you think I just need to take my fender off to find it?

Even if the windshield side moulding foam isn't great, I'm not sure it would actually create a leak there.. Could the clips that hold the moulding leak into that wall reaching the inside of the car? I wanted to ask before buying seam sealant and trying to squirt it all up in the moulding area since I thought it might be pointless.. In case anyone is wondering, it's not leaking into the headliner. The only water I can see coming in is under/beside the dash high up on that inner wall of the inside on the driver's side.

Edit: I meant to say floor not door in the title.