r/7thgencivic

I got a 01 LX for $340 with 3 misfires, I put new plugs/coils, eld, and some motor mounts. Got it to just one misfire on cylinder 4 and after installing all new injectors cylinder 2,3&4 had misfires. I put a couple of the old ones back on and got rid of the 3rd cylinder misfire. So now it’s just 2 and 4 again. When the 2nd cylinder was firing fine before I did injectors. This is my first project car that I’m actually doing all the engine work by myself so I’m a little lost. Any help is appreciated

I have an 05 LX Sedan. I’m replacing a lot of the suspension cuz it’s worn and a little rusty from its short stint up north before coming south. I know and am making good progress on all that needs done in the front, but I’m less familiar with the rear suspension. What all needs to be replaced? I know the upper control arms and struts are on my list, what else should I plan on?

Apologies for the long post but context necessary. People I know who also drive manual have told me the grinding and shifter jumping/twitching isn’t anything to worry about so I’m not sure if it is related or an issue.

04 EX 5MT, 230k miles

Prefacing this: it’s felt a bit grindy lately going into gears, and a few times hasn’t wanted to go into reverse or first. I always just put it back in neutral (or if I’m trying to reverse I go 3rd then reverse) then try again and it works. This issue has been only within probably 500 miles. I’ve only had the car about 3k miles. The clutch, flywheel, pilot and throw out bearings were done 1k miles ago, and both cv axles done within 1k miles. (Clutch was going out when I bought the car and needed a cv axle so did both axles)

Also, the other day I put the clutch in to shift from 3rd to 4th and I had barely touched the shifter and it felt like it popped partially out of gear. When I let off the gas in 3rd 4th and 5th the shift jumps/twitches. Unsure if these issues are related to the grinding/other issues.

The main issue: today I went to take off from a stoplight, tried to put it in first, and it wouldn’t go. Put it in neutral, it felt grindy but went in, then I went to take off and it was like I was still in neutral, the car just revved. I did it again, made sure I was fully in gear, same thing and then there was a loud pop noise, so i immediately put the car in neutral and rolled down the hill into a street parking spot. I sat there for a minute trying to decide whether to try to get to my destination and then decided I’d try and just pull off the road if needed. The car went into first still a little grindy but I was able to make it to my destination a few miles away with no more issues, including having to shift into first and take off from stoplights.

I have no idea if it’s related to the axles or transmission or what. I’m concerned the car will leave me stuck somewhere, as I’m not currently at my house.

Hello Honda masters,

I have a question. My belt snapped while I was on the road, but the car was not moving at the time. It damaged the tensioner, although the pulley is still fine. Based on the initial checking, it might have been caused by the lower timing cover coming loose, cracking, and somehow slashing the belt.

My question is: do I need to have the engine pulled down? My mechanic said we should first try replacing the belt, crankshaft sensor, and tensioner before pulling the engine out.

Is there still a chance that the engine is fine even though the belt snapped?

Hoping for your insights. Thanks!

Why isn’t dc5 and option in the flairs of this subreddit, I know it’s not a civic but can we not hang? Ig ep3 will work for now😔

So my honda civic coupe keeps overheating as soon as i go stationary the temp meter just sky rockets to the overheating i have no cluea what i can do to fix it my coolant also turns black but ive tried every way possible to see if the head gasket is fucked but it seems to be fine anyone that can help me because im kinda clueless at this point

Hello everyone, I am looking to get a civic coupe as a cheap beater car just for use around town to keep city miles off my current car, and to have an automatic. I’ve been doing some research and saw that the early civics of this generation pre facelift have severe issues with the transmissions. I prefer the look of the pre facelift so my question is: Can I realistically expect the car to last me let’s say 2~4 years of mostly city driving without the transmission quitting on me. Obviously head gasket and other miscellaneous things I would need to watch out for but all that I can take care of myself, a dead transmission if I can’t find a cheap used one will be a death sentence for the car to me.

gonna be replacing all my struts and my outter tie rod ends cus shit is cooked. especially after hitting this pothole late at night a few weeks ago. i already got issues to deal with too before all of that. i got the classic po401 and gotta clear those egr passages. ive also had no heat at idle for like 2 years it seems. ive gone thru getting the head gasket done last year so all thats fine. coolant is fine. oil looks normal minus the leak i got coming from the vtech solenoid gasket. my dumbass also hit a speed bump too hard a few months ago thats been making my gauge rise now when i idle for a while, which im sure could be a few things. my fans operate normal. i do have a new thermostat if thats the issue. i havent checked if i have air bubbles or anything in system. im sure this car is do for a coolant flush and im sure i need a heater core flush as well. focusing on one thing at a time but i feel so cooked right now yall ahaa

Control arms bushing are getting worn and the rest of the front end seems In good condition would it be best to just replace the control arms and get a alignment or should I replace tie rod ends ball joints etc since I could get them in kits and then get a alignment. Don’t wanna replace control arms then a ball joint go out 10k miles later and waste money on another alignment.