Blew up my d17 after doing new bearings. My guess is the rod bearings spun because the old ones had been knocking so long that the journals are out of round and spun the new bearings. Aaanyways instead of being generic and going with a kswap I wanna build the bottom end and supercharge it because why not.
I see this code is usually associated with a leak in the EVAP system, but my code says the voltage is high on the fuel tank pressure sensor ? Anybody have experience with this ? Any tips are appreciated
This is what it looks like when the engine isn't running. Is that too loose to drive on a few days/weeks? What issues could it cause?
P.S. For those that saw my previous post, the random noise indeed came from the dust shield.
I came back to my car yesterday and noticed the key hole was in a funny angle. I couldn't even get my key into it. I assume somebody tried to force it open with a screwdriver or something. Funny thing is I typically don't even lock it since I don't have anything of value in there. But OK. Any suggestions for how to fix this?
2001 Civic LX
Thank you!
Fusetapped Some underdash lights in my 05 civic.. where under here would be a good place to ground?
so the gf and i took the civic to summerfest lastnight if yall heard of that, and leaving the event lastnight left us taking over 50 mins to just get out of the parking lot waiting in lines of cars and everyone trying to get out at the same time. but since i got the classic egr issue my car likes to over heat if idling for too long. i found i was able to put it in park occasionally and rev at 1000-1500 rpms for a few months until it brung the level back to where its supposed to be. it was a life saver. never thought of that until then. cant wait to fix the issue but if anyone ever in this situation that worked pretty well for me instead of turning the car off constantly. its been hot over here these last few days in milwaukee so being able to keep the ac on was a W🥲🥲🫡 happy 4th of july yall.
I’ve been chasing a cooling system issue for a while now and could use some opinions before I keep throwing parts at it.
A few months ago I replaced the radiator (OEM-style), thermostat (OEM), and recently the radiator cap after chasing a coolant leak. I also found and fixed one leaking hose clamp. Ever since fixing that clamp, the time between needing to bleed the cooling system increased significantly, so I know I made progress.
The new radiator cap also seemed to help a lot. For the past week the car has been perfect. I’ve driven it hard, let it idle after spirited driving, sat in traffic, and even in 100°F weather the temperature never moved from normal.
Today it started raining, so I turned the heat on because it got chilly. The blower worked fine, but the heater never got warm. Shortly after that, the temp gauge climbed to about 3/4.
I got home and started bleeding the system. At first, once it got up to temp, the coolant in the funnel started rising. It rose more with slight revs, and after shutting the engine off it rose to the brim and overflowed a little. I let it sit for a minute or two, started it back up, and after that the bleeding process became completely normal. The coolant level stayed stable, even when revving, and didn’t continue rising.
One thing that’s been consistent through all of this is the heater. Before this past week when the cooling system has been performing good because of the new radiator cap, it usually takes around 15 minutes of bleeding before the cabin heat finally starts getting hot. Before that, one heater hose at the firewall will stay much cooler than the other before it eventually warms up.
Another thing I’ve noticed is that if I use the pressure-release lever on my new radiator cap while the engine is hot, the pressure is released through the overflow reservoir, and coolant will come out around the reservoir cap if I don’t release it slowly.
So far I’ve replaced:
Radiator
OEM thermostat
Thermostat housing
Coolant hoses & clamps
Radiator cap
Fixed one confirmed external coolant leak
I still think I have at least one more external coolant leak somewhere because I’ve found fresh coolant in the engine bay before, but I’m trying to figure out if something else is going on too.
I don't have any of the usual head gasket symptoms. No white smoke from the exhaust, no milky oil, no sweet-smelling exhaust, and the car has gone through plenty of hard driving and long idling sessions where the temperature stayed perfectly normal after replacing the radiator cap. Because of that, I’m hoping it’s not a head gasket, although I’ll admit I’m probably a little biased because I really don’t want it to be.
Has anyone experienced something similar on a D17?
Would you be looking more toward trapped air, another external leak, a heater core flow issue, water pump, or should I be doing a pressure test and block test before replacing anything else?
So I had to change the alternator cuz it was dead, also changed the belt but the tensionner is completely seized and this is the tightest I could get it. Is it atrocious and what the fuck could I do from there?
Also you might have noticed that the right side engine mount is not holding anything, one bolt is gone and the other one broken. Therefore the unused A/C compressor comes in handy as the replacement engine mount. It's not resting on the frame but with the minimal engine vibration it does touch back and forth, which is why the car vibrates at idle.
I just put everything back together and drove it 3min; everything is fine except that there's some sort of interfecence that sounds like a worn brake/rotor but slightly worse (it's not brakes) that seems to be on the front right wheel side, that wasn't there before and I'm thinking of that too. (wheel is perfectly torqued and plastic cover isn't in the way)
Any help is appreciated, tryna keep this Acura EL in drivable condition.
Thank you.
Is it worth it to try and get a maneul CRV with a k24 so that way I can get a manual trans and the engine and then sell the rest for parts, or should I just buy the engine and trans by itself
Has pirate garage/gravy built in it too doing the tuning. He’s got a lot of 7th gen videos too. His eps swap one is good if you wanna see what all goes into that.
D17a2 Engine only has 80k miles 😪
Bought this as a parts car, I knew the was blown but haven’t actually started it until now.
Previous owner blew the head gasket, let it run out of coolant, then overheated enough to cause rod knock, super unfortunate
Would you rebuild it?
hi! I'd like to find a fun spoiler for my 2005 civic si-g! im having trouble finding any good options out there and would love some reccomends.
i personally like the type r wing but haven't been able to find any good options online.
ideally already painted but im open to painting it myself too. i just want to see what's out there and what you folks think will look good? im willing to spend a decent amount of money for a good wing too :3
any and all advice/help is welcome 🙏
Replacing cv axel on both ends, right side seems to be worse cause more vibration from that side. I can also see a wobble from the axle while spinning the wheels while jacked up.
Finally got my coilovers on. Really helped with the overall look of the car. Currently I’m running Advan TC4 16x7.5 35 4x100 Black Gun Metallic with Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 205/45ZR16 83W.
The coils really helped with stiffening the suspension. This thing feels very planted now. And honestly is just about track ready. Still have some other things that need to be worked but overall it feels great.
For those interested in doing the coils yourself. Honestly if you got an impact and breaker bar. It’s really easy to install. The thing you need to watch out for is.
1: Those top studs on the coilover snaps easily. Don’t over tighten it. Don’t ask me how I know…
2: Alignment: if you do not know how to align it. Just take it to a shop and get it installed. If you install these coil overs. And do not change the alignment. It is borderline dangerous to drive.
Other than that. Great purchase and I keep falling more in love with this car.
Both engine condition are okey, one is 139k km (right) other is 223k km. no oil burn or no colant leak.
Swapped the clutch master out, went the route of cutting an access hole through the wheel well and made it so much easier. And installing the stainless steel like was pretty easy too. Took me 10 minutes to bleed the system then the 40 minutes with the old line.😭 If anyone has to do the clutch master cylinder i recommend getting the stainless steel clutch line.
Not sure how this post will go over considering this outside the normal posts I see here but I figured I’d post it here to at least share. I took it to the the Gambler 500 here in Oregon and had an absolute blast with it. The last slide is what it looked like before putting in a 1.5inch lift kit from HRG. Had to do a ton of cutting and hammering to get enough clearance for the 28inch tires.