u/krheal23

My BZ will hopefully be delivered in about a week and a half. I want to be prepared. It's already been doing a lot of sitting. Hopefully it's not DOA.

Anyways, I'm trying to get the dealer it's sitting at to swap the battery, even if I have to pay for it. Does upgrading to the H5 / group 47 AGM 12V void the warranty though? If it does, I'm not sure I want to upgrade.

So then, is an AGM the same size as the OEM one still at least better than what's stock in the BZ (Furukawa I think)?

Thanks

I was trying to get the Toyota dealer I’m buying from to look into swapping the 12v for a bigger H5 AGM one. Parts / service were closed yesterday for the 4th, but the sales lady I have been working with tried to help a little anyways. Doesn’t look like Toyota sells / stocks their own H5 AGM.

Was thinking about having an auto parts store that’s nearby deliver one there. Would those be good enough -‘from Auto Zone or O’Reilly’s?

Thanks

I'm getting a car transported from Arizona to Texas shortly.

Which is safer (generally less risk of damage to the car): top or bottom deck of the hauler / truck?

Thanks!

I am going to be taking delivery of an out of state BZ soon. I didn’t think of this until I saw it in another thread. Well, that user mentioned they don’t think deleting the Toyota app actually cancels subscriptions.

So for the 12v issue, someone posted recently Toyota suggested to not even link your VIN to the Toyota app.

Well, the BZ I am receiving is used. What if the previous owner didn’t delete subscriptions / remove the vehicle on their end? Could it still be pulling their signal to the car when it’s in my possession? When the Bz is delivered. I wasn’t gong to even link it in the app until all this 12v / DCM issues get resolved.

Heck, I sold my Highlander to CarMax, and I didn’t think about removing that vehicle from the app until about 2-3 days after I sold it, mainly because I didn’t use it much after the remote connect price went up - I canceled that sub.

I am just an amateur who appreciates a nicely washed car. I always hand wash my cars, but tire wash and care is something I’ve never spent much time on.

Well, I’m not sure what I did wrong months ago, but my tires turned a little brown. They weren’t extremely bad like some I’ve seen online. I think I narrowed it down to 2 recent ones I bought:
Adam's Polishes Graphene Tire Dressing OR
Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene Acrylic
Tire Shine Spray.

I used Turtle Wax wheel and tire cleaner (I didn’t realize at the time I had Adams wheel and tire cleaner), and then rinsed, and used a brush. There was a lot of brown crap coming off, so I rinsed that off.

They look better now, but not perfect. I do like a black matte look at least. I stopped there though as I was scared if I added a tire protect after that, it might cause them to brown again.

How often can I use tire and wheel cleaner without damaging tire?

What’s a good / safe product to apply after the tire and wheel cleaner? I am in Texas by the way.

I have a RAV4 with black wheels. What’s a good product to use on those to clean?

How do I prevent the brown from coming back?

I am in the process of buying a 2026 AWD Limited. It’s out of state and should be here in a couple of weeks.

What are some tips for a new EV owner?

I know that climate, AC / heater, driving habits (speed) all affect range. Anything else affect range?

The recall has been fixed.

I’m aware of the 12V issue. What does disabling DCM turn off though? The car will be sitting at the dealer for about a week before a transport company gets it. Should I ask the dealer to somehow check if it has the 12V issue? Not sure what to tell them to test that though / how to test it. If I ask about a better battery, which should I ask for (I assume they won’t swap it for the bigger H5 right)?

What is preconditioning? When is it best to do?

I have ABRP and Plug Share downloaded on my phone. Oh, and the Toyota app (which might not be useful if disabling DCM anyways).

I am planning on getting a level 2 home charger, as my daily commute is 90 miles. I know you shouldn’t charge over 80% for the most part.

What else am I missing?

Thanks in advance!

They don’t make Weather Tech HP for the BZ, so I’m looking at TuxMat. However, the coverage just might be too good, as it might make removing them and putting them back in to clean a pain.

Thoughts? Other suggestions (for a 26 Limited)?

Thanks!

I am trying to wrap up paperwork on a BZ AWD Limited that’s in Arizona. I am in Texas. Apparently they are short-staffed, and there’s only 1 lady in finance! It seems like it’s taking forever.

Anyways, I have never owned an EV. I looked at a few transport companies, and I see bad reviews for all of them. Makes me wonder if we should fly out there (from Texas) and drive it back ourselves.

That does sound risky since I have never owned an EV. I see people recommend Plugg Share and ABRP. I tend to fall asleep easily at the wheel, but my wife and I could take turns. I am more concerned about finding charging stations along our route back home to Texas!

Thoughts / suggestions?

Anyone have any good suggestions for a transport service?

I’m usually not the type to buy an extended warranty, but with the recall, 12v issue, and I think I’ve seen infotainment screen issues, buying an extended warranty doesn’t seem like a bad idea.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Dealer I’m working with out of state is trying to charge $4,000 for theirs! I’m looking at their documents online, and I stopped right there when I saw that.

So, my region (Texas) does not have a single AWD BZ model in stock, so I'm buying out of state. The first individual at this dealership, an internet director, was great. She had to leave out of town though, so I called to see who else could help me.

Someone did, and I submitted my app, my wife's app, and answered a few of their questions (name to use on title, insurance, address). I completed all of that within minutes! This was yesterday afternoon about noon.

The sales guy said he received it and that finance will call me shortly to go over the purchase docs (and warranty stuff). Well, after not hearing anything for hours, I reached out to him.

He said they are having an internal problem with the internal VIN and had to contact Toyota. It's a computer issue where the VIN won't populate in their system. Toyota has an internal process and it's just taking time. This was last night.

So here we are today, and I get a call from finance about noon. We agree to the terms, and the finance lady said she will email me the docs shortly. Well, now it's been hours once again, and I haven't received anything. I reach back out. They are waiting for the VIN issue to be cleared by their Toyota rep. The finance lady will call when it's resolved. He said it's an issue once our software needs to mark a car "sold."

Well, now the dealership is about to close for the evening. So basically I turned in everything they needed 33 hours ago, (2 business days basically), and we've hardly gotten anywhere. Has anyone ever heard of this? Sound legit? What's weird is that the car actually started at this dealership, someone bought it from them, and then recently traded it back in for something else. So why VIN problems now?

So, my region (Texas) does not have a single AWD model in stock, so I'm buying out of state. The first individual, an internet director, was great. She had to leave out of town though, so I called to see who else could help me.

Someone did, and I submitted my app, my wife's app, and answered a few of their questions (name to use on title, insurance, address). I completed all of that within minutes! This was yesterday afternoon about noon.

The sales guy said he received it and that finance will call me shortly to go over the purchase docs (and warranty stuff). Well, after not hearing anything for hours, I reached out to him.

He said they are having an internal problem with the internal VIN and had to contact Toyota. It's a computer issue where the VIN won't populate in their system. Toyota has an internal process and it's just taking time. This was last night.

So here we are today, and I get a call from finance about noon. We agree to the terms, and the finance lady said she will email me the docs shortly. Well, now it's been hours once again, and I haven't received anything. I reach back out. They are waiting for the VIN issue to be cleared by their Toyota rep. The finance lady will call when it's resolved. He said it's an issue once our software needs to mark a car "sold."

Well, now the dealership is about to close for the evening. So basically I turned in everything they needed 33 hours ago, (2 business days basically), and we've hardly gotten anywhere. Has anyone ever heard of this? Sound legit? What's weird is that the car actually started at this dealership, someone bought it from them, and then recently traded it back in for something else. So why VIN problems now?

Should be taking delivery of a 26 BZ in about a week and a half.

I asked the out of state dealer which battery it has. She said “CATL.” That’s not the same as Panasonic is it? Hopefully it’s better.

Trying to do what I can to prevent 12v battery drain, well, especially once it gets here.

Thanks

Getting the paperwork going for purchasing a BZ. It’s a 2026 with 5k miles. Doesn’t Toyota do a 1 year trial for free at least? They did on our previous Highlander.

Oh, I’m out of state, and the dealer had an issue with something, so things are moving at a snail’s pace.

If so, would that still be eligible to me since the car is not over a year old?

Thanks

I'm taking the plunge and in the process of buying our first EV, a 2026 BZ AWD Limited with 5k miles! I'm a little nervous about it, as I don't have a clue about the charging aspect in terms of what you need at home. I think I need to watch YouTube videos to understand all the terms better. I'm a visual learner, and I keep seeing different terms thrown around, but I can't visualize what's going on.

So, our home is just a few years old. I'm in Texas, and the car will be in the garage. Our breaker box looks to be 200 amps. I understand level 1 is extremely slow and is just using a standard home outlet. My commute is pretty far - drive about 100 miles a day, so I definitely want level 2 at home.

That's about where my knowledge ends though. Well, I've seen recommendations about what decreases range (the 20" wheels, A/C, extreme temps, driving too fast, etc.).

So what do I need at home? I have been contacting a local electrician with good reviews, and he said a lot of people choose Tesla level 2 home charging, and he can provide ChargePoint. He said that honestly Tesla is better.

I see Tesla doesn't let non-Tesla owners buy their equipment. However, stores like Best Buy sell the universal one (the cheaper wall one is sold out).

Is this what I need? Tesla Universal Wall Connector Level 2 Hardwired Electric Vehicle (EV) Charger – up to 48A– 24’ White 1734412-02-D/1734411-02-E - Best Buy

Are some important features going to be missing since I am not getting a Tesla vehicle?

Are there better level 2 chargers that you recommend? If you're going into detail about the charging adapters/cables/ports, please explain like I'm a 5 year old. Ha. Thanks in advance!

T

Ha

Just got back from my first test drive. 2026 red FWD limiter - Texas.

We really liked it! I could easily seeing us (wife and me) enjoying it!

I had a couple of questions / concerns.

1. The AC didn’t seem to be super cold like I like it. Granted, it was sitting out in the Texas heat all day though. Even after 15 minutes running, it just didn’t seem to freeze me like our Rav and Highlander do though. Owners. Is this typical?

2. Is the main battery replacement a concern for y’all? I guess most people will lease these. Parts said it is $25k to replace though! Is the warranty 8 years 100k miles or 10 years 150k miles?

I drive too much to lease (20-25k miles per year) by the way.

Thank you!

I am in Texas, and it’s hard to find any AWD. I may buy used (certified) to save some money.

What are some important things to ask that I may not know, never owning an EV?

Should I ask about battery health? Does it tell you / the dealer that info?

Should I buy from a state where the car came from a warmer climate?

Etc.

Thanks!

I’m in the US (Texas). Has the 0% for 72 months been going on for the last few months? I'm not sure if I'll buy new or used, but if I go new, I might feel the need to speed up the search process a little more.

I need to look into the math of, is it better to buy new and get the incentives (0% for 72 + $1500 off) or go used (certified pre-owned) and pay less but with higher APR.

In the past years with Toyota vehicles I had been looking into, the used cars held their value so well, I could always just pay $3 to $5k more and get brand new. With the BZ, looks like some Limited models are going for $10k cheaper than what a new one would be.

I know people mention the range taking a hit in the winter / cold weather, but how about summer? I live in Texas, and I'm looking to purchase a BZ. It would be in the garage, which obviously still gets really hot!

For 5 months out of the year, we can easily see temps in the 90s (summer in the 100s, although it's been a decent summer so far).

Is the drop in range significant? Your range for an AWD Limited would be helpful to know as well, as that's what I'm trying to purchase.

Thank you!