r/Toyota

Looking to get the new rav4

I have a 2023 Toyota Highlander turbo gas engine and have been waiting for a sale on the spark plugs for my vehicle. I typically buy my parts from an east coast dealer but noticed they were out of stock. I went to all of the local dealer’s website and it also shows as unavailable to ship or pick up.

Here’s the model number: #90919-A1008

What are we to do if we can’t get oem? I always hear it’s best to go oem for spark plugs.

Good morning afternoon or night all! I’m trying to weigh the difference of reliability between a Tacoma or Camry both have distinct useful things that apply to me so I guess I’m just asking what’s gonna go a further distance. For reference with my budget I’m looking at 2016-2020 v6 tacomas with about 90k miles, and 2020-2024 Camrys ideally with AWD with around 70k miles.

I have a 2017 Camry XSE that has the physical cruise control stalk on the steering wheel with push to turn on, up or down to adjust speed. Very simple to use and I know Toyota has used the same stalk on all their vehicles since my 1990 Camry. When I drive my wife’s 2025 Rav4, using the cruise control feels like it takes more brain power and attention off the road to figure out how it works and is frustrating compared to the tried and true stalk.

Is there a reason Toyota can't make driver legroom better?

My first year trial of remote connect expires soon.. I hate that we have to sign up for either GPS or Music in order to get the remote start but alas, here we are. I don't use apple music, i use spotify. I also simply use Google Maps on CarPlay. Any opinions on whether I should sign up for "Go Anywhere" or "Music Lover"?

ETA: I’m not here to debate whether or not I SHOULD subscribe to it. Is it an insane money grab? Yes. Can I afford it and does it make my life easier? Also yes. Please dont waste your time trying to convince me not to purchase or complain about the money grab.

I negotiated a specific vehicle with them. We agreed on the price, monthly payment, loan term, etc. I asked them to email me the quote before I came in, and I still have that email. It includes the VIN, agreed price, monthly payment, and loan duration.

When I arrived at the dealership, they confirmed I was getting the deal we had negotiated. I went through the paperwork and signed everything.

Here’s where it gets frustrating: I later realized the retail installment contract listed a different VIN than the one on the emailed quote. It’s the same year, make, model, and trim, but it’s a different car. The one I signed for is about $500 cheaper (the difference appears to be the color/options).

At no point did anyone tell me they had switched vehicles. Nobody mentioned a different VIN, asked if I was okay with the substitution, or explained why it had changed. I completely missed it in the stack of paperwork because I had no reason to expect they would change the vehicle after we’d already negotiated a specific one.

The dealership delivered the car to my house, so I never drove it off the lot myself. Ironically, that’s probably a good thing because I discovered my insurance had been written for the original VIN from the quote, not the VIN on the contract. I caught it the next morning and immediately updated my insurance before driving the car.

I called the dealership today to ask whether they were aware of the VIN switch and whether they would do anything to make it right, even if it was just refunding the roughly $500 difference. Their response was essentially, “You signed the contract, so there’s nothing we’re going to do.”

I understand that I should have caught the VIN difference before signing. That’s on me. But I also feel like a dealership shouldn’t quietly substitute a different vehicle after negotiating a deal on a specific VIN without saying a word.

At this point I’m leaning toward just moving on because it’s “only” about $500, but the whole thing leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

Do I have any legal or practical recourse in Alabama? Has anyone dealt with something similar? I have:

• The original emailed quote showing the negotiated VIN.
• Photos from the negotiation that reference the original VIN.
• The signed contract showing the different VIN.
• The insurance documents showing I initially insured the original VIN because that’s the vehicle I believed I was purchasing.

Edit: if it helps. I’m in Alabama.

Edit2: Emailed them this https://pastebin.com/kRHyutDi