u/lw0-0wl

I'm cleaning out my garage and I have the sway bars from my 2009 Avalanche since I put Eibach ones on it. I'm curious if they fit my 2003 Avalanche. The rear sway bar is the same size and shape in both cases but my 2009 is solid whereas the 2003 is solid steel.

My front 2009 is hollow but it's 32mm and nearly 3/8" wider than what's on my 2003. Width wide it looks like it'd work if you stuck it on backwards basically from the GMT900 orientation. Is that possible or am I asking for a bad time?

I didn't find anything definitive when googling and the people that sell swaybars for the GMT800 don't list GMT900 in the year range. Before I pull down the skid plate and plastic pans up front I'd just like to know if it's a known swap out before I likely shear off a couple of the bolts that hold the factory bar in place. I do need to do the end links and bushings up there anyway, so I suppose I could answer this all for myself shortly.

I'm including a photo of the rear bars which look nearly identical to me.

https://preview.redd.it/j2djnq3nul1h1.png?width=3198&format=png&auto=webp&s=de5766e21966bc0c6aff5d42444900e9450b8d29

I installed a back up camera in the tail gate handle housing on my 2009 pretty easily. The whole interior panel of the tail gate unscrews so you can see what you're doing to run the wires.

With my 2003 it looks like you have to remove the spoiler body tape and maybe drill some rivets to remove the tail gate interior panel? It looks like a nightmare. Is there a way to run a fish tape wire through the tail gate in order to install a back up camera in the same place? It looked to me like there was a tiny opening down at the bottom corner of the tail gate that maybe I could feed some wires into?

That or I could drill a small hole in the fiberglass panel down at the corner in order to pass wires out of there, down the frame rail?

I want to install it as cleanly as possible. The camera pointing down at an angle was perfect in my other truck because you can see the back bumper in the view and know exactly how far you can back up. Thanks!

I've found videos showing people using an XM equipped radio to take line level input from the XM system. My radio only has AM/FM/CD. The CD player button says CD/AUX though. Is there a way to fool the radio into going into an line level input mode by pressing that button even though I'm not loading a CD into it? I suppose I COULD load a CD into it but then bypass the built-in CD player audio input and hijack that? Is that possible? I'd like to put a bluetooth receiver in line if possible.

I do have one of those cheap cigarette lighter bluetooth/FM transmitters and the audio quality is about the same as FM, so I do have a workaround.

Both of my bed lights have good light bulbs but the button on the dash isn't working to turn them on. The fuses I checked are all working and everything else in the truck is working like the tail lamps, dome lights, etc...

Is there a specific ground for just the bed lights? Or should I be testing the dash switch itself? Just looking for common or known reasons why the bed lights don't work, thanks!

I've got Carista (bought it for my toyota) but it seems to only handle classic OBD stuff for my 2003 Avalanche. I got a Service Brake System message and both parking and ABS warning came on this morning out of nowhere.

I haven't done anything that would obviously disturb the wheel sensors and I made sure the wires aren't being rubbed.

Who makes an OBD dongle for an iphone that will reset the brake warning lights and allow me to service the brake system? I'd prefer cheaper rather than Snap-On of course. Since I'm going through the truck as a new purchase I'm pretty sure I'll be doing 'all the things' in the near future, so I just need a full featured reader/reset tool.

I picked up my 03 Avalanche last week. The guy I got it from put a cheap fuel pump and a new fuel filter in it to flip it and sell it. I think it had sat for a while due to the bad fuel pump. It seems to start fine and run OK and I've driven it a couple hundred miles so far without any problems other than these two repeated diagnostic codes popping up. I reset them and they come back a day later.

My short term fuel trim numbers in both banks 1 and 2 are -3.1%. However, long term fuel trim numbers on both banks are mimicking each other to the tune of about +18 to + 25% depending on which time I had reset the data log.

Since I'm not getting reported errors from the MAF or O2 sensors is the most likely thing to assume that both intake manifold gaskets need to be replaced? I haven't done the 'spray carb cleaner around them while idling' yet. The truck has 180k miles and I'm just going to keep trying to knock out these problems as they show up.

Everything under the hood looks complete and not messed with. The previous owners seem to have just driven it until it stopped working but all of the parts look like original stuff. Albeit 23 year old stuff that's probably going to need my attention as I keep working to restore its performance.

I will preface this with I have a 2003 Avalanche with 180k miles on it. It's a 3000 dollar truck. It has the factory front end components and it's currently eating the insides of both front tires. I want to make it stop.

I know that Kryptonite and Mevotech make good stuff, but it's too nice for this truck. What brands of these Amazon or internet front end kits will hold up for say... five years? ie: i don't want rubber boots tearing in 1 month. But I'm also just needing something that tightens up the front end so I can keep it in alignment. This truck will be used in the city to haul junk to the dump and make occasional trips to pick things up like a motorcycle or whatever. It's completely stock and an OEM ride height Z71 package. That's how I'm going to keep it.

I've heard Moog crapped the bed years ago, but something 'old Moog' quality is what I'm looking for. Thanks for any recommendations!

I am new to GMT800 ownership (2003 Avalanche) so I'm drinking from the fire hose of information. I wanted to see if any of you have run into this situation. Yesterday I replaced the oil pressor sensor because my oil pressure gauge was pegged at 80psi. That repair fixed that gauge, but now my fuel gauge is broken similarly. It spikes at full and with the key off it parks itself at the 1/2 tank mark where it used to park itself at E.

The fuel pump is a month old and the fuel gauge was working fine when I bought the truck last week. I'm sure it's a Amazon special since the guy I bought it from was a shady (cheap) sort of guy. He bought the Avalanche to replace the fuel pump and flip for a profit. He cut a hole in the floor so I can easily get in and check the wiring. I already pulled the connections and cleaned them/applied dielectric grease which didn't fix things.

I'm curious what is most likely:

-Did I disturb a ground somewhere? It's possible I disturbed a wire somewhere near the oil pressure sensor on the back of the driver's side block.
-Is it likely the fuel sender already failed? Seems unlikely since this started the moment I replaced the oil pressure sender
-I was standing IN the engine bay to do the oil sensor. My right foot was stuck down on the driver side frame rail. Are there any wires in that small loom that I could have disturbed? I was being careful, but it was something I made note of while I was IN there.

Last, is there a way for me to spoof the fuel sender resistance? I think the sendor is a 250 ohm unit. 0 ohms = full, 250+ ohms = empty. I have various resistors like 250, 120, etc.. on hand. Is there a place I can insert test resistors to simulate an empty or half full fuel situation to verify that my stepper motor is still working?

I bought a set of 7 stepper motors on Amazon and they will be here in a couple days. But it seems more like a broken ground to me at the moment than a bad stepper motor since the needle is at 1/2 tank when power off and pegs at full when power is on.

Thanks for any help!

I just picked up a 2003 Avalanche with the worst headlights I've ever seen. I'd like to buy a new set of headlamp housings (not OEM of course) that actually perform like the originals and don't take on moisture. I would prefer incandescent over LED anything. I just want normal performance and no modern looking stuff since the rest of the truck is just old and not modified.

There's a lot of kits on ebay and amazon, but I'm hoping to find some that aren't prone to tabs snapping off upon installation attempts. Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/93np74y5pfyg1.png?width=2450&format=png&auto=webp&s=9cc68b40c6899b8d6664584aa74fd4eb3261bb5c