Paid $3500. has 130k miles and seems to be in pretty good shape. Guy had it in the parking lot for a few hours before I saw it and bought it.
Hey so I got this cooler on Amazon. I got the better oil cooler rated tubing and better clamps like most people say. My questions are 1) should is use thread tape on the fittings? 2) do I need to flush the new 40k core with something like isopropyl alcohol as a precaution against any manufacturing shavings inside before installing?
Recently bought my 2002 suburban. Speakers need to be replaced, but I want something good and heavy bass
2004 Escalade 6.0, sat static for a 4 or 5 days, noticed leak. Pretty certain it’s coolant. It’s green, previous owner obviously didn’t have the pink Dex in it. It’s hitting the ground on the passenger side about 18” inside the passenger tire. These are photos of the highest we point I could find. Radiator and ac hoses are all dry, yes I upgraded the tee connectors already and they are dry as well. Brand new water pump less than 2k miles ago. Any insight or recommendations on where it may be coming from would be appreciated.
hey folks, I am either about to purchase a Tahoe for parts, or use my parts sierra for this project.
I am wanting to take the shell of my Tahoe/Sierra and drop the front axle, drop the front clip, basically strip it to the frame on the engine bay. and put a trailer tongue on the frame.
Now its worth mentioning I have no idea how to weld, nor do I know much about about weight capacities beyond what I can research normally.
My idea is to bolt on a beefy trailer tongue, and I imagine I might need a weight distribution hitch possibly.
No drivetrain, insides stripped out, no front end parts, so probably a good 1500lbs maybe 2000lbs lost. so that leaves the trailer at around 4000lbs(?)
What I don’t know is how much weight would be on the rear bumper of towing vehicle, if I want 10% on tongue that’s only 400lbs-ish.
Anyways, any insight would be appreciated, as this is relatively new territory for my rednecking experience.
thank you!!!
2004 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3L (GMT800).
Both rear passenger doors suddenly stopped unlocking at the same time a few weeks ago. They still LOCK perfectly fine using the key fob and interior switches.
Both front doors and the rear hatch lock/unlock without any issues.
I’m thinking it’s a shared electrical issue rather than both actuators failing simultaneously.
Anyone experienced this before? Is there a specific relay, fuse, or common wiring circuit I should check first? Trying to avoid throwing parts at it.