u/moxie_watches

- Dials from u/attorneyimmediate918 (I’ve been sitting on these for months and happy to finally use them)
- Raffles case
- Nh38
- hands aged by me

*Reposting because i'm an idiot and included links to buy these kits and reddit removed the post. If you want links- please send a dm or check my page (i'll pin a post if there's demand)*

Hello All-
(apologize for the long post, but hopefully it will be interesting to some)

I've been building *-a lot-* of various grand seiko builds lately. There's 5+ distinctly different build types, but 2 of them are very similar (x2 elegance types, evolution 9, gmt sport, and tentagraph). There's more actually but they start getting more subtle and for this post let's just say 5. For this post, i wanted to share some pics differentiating the 2 different elegance / cocktail builds available side by side, because it's easy to not spot the difference by themselves.

As a quick preface, grand seiko reps are interesting... They do have some pretty close 'replica' reps (aiming for a copy), but most of them are "replica-like", in that they are close, but have fantasy proportions or colorways. That said, they have a lot of fun fantasy colors and they all look good enough that if someone isn't specifically knowledgable with the GS catalogue, one may never know (in general, not as many people are experts at GS models it seems).

**Also, i am not an expert either, so please educate me if i have any of this information incorrect- i'm simply trying to share observations**

For my very personal taste, it doesn't get any better than the Grand Seiko sbgm221 GMT. It's part of their 'Elegance' collection and there's a number of variations, including the stunning sbgm235 'kiku' textured dial.

As mentioned up top, Interestingly enough, there are 2 similar, yet distinctly different builds you can do that both aim at repping these:

Option 1

• 39.5mm case that uses a 35mm dial.
• 2 piece 'standard' case design with clear screw down caseback. GS markings on the dial, crown, caseback, and butterfly clasp.
• These have 5 main 'easy to find' color options for dials- White, Black, Navy Blue, Light Blue, and Cream/Yellow
• The White, Black, and Navy Blue dials have a wonderful textured pattern designed to be similar to the sbgm235 kiku dial
• 20mm lugs
• 14mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: the huge 35mm dials look stunning! done.
• disadvantages: these are more 'fantasy' builds that use a combination of many aspects. The dials are larger than reality. Getting nice GS hands with matching (longer) length is more difficult- they come with longer hands for the larger dials, but they are garbage. The cream/yellow dial does not match the coloring of a sbgm221. Its distinctly more yellow.

They are a fantasy representation of the elegance line, but that doesn't stop them from looking fantastic. And they are the only ones with the textured dials like a sbgm235 kiku.

------

Option 2

• 39.5mm case that uses a 31mm dial.
• 3 piece case design with a top piece with crystal integrated in a metal housing, mid case, and caseback that is secured through 6 pass-through screws from the back. Multiple gaskets for each part plus double gaskets on each screw. (this is how the gen ones are)
• gs markings on dial, crown, and clasp- note, it does not have markings on the caseback
• 5+ options available (but i only have 3 right now to share pics of)- cream, black, light blue, green, and a darker blue (i think others too)
• 19mm lugs
• 13.75mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: these are closer in proportion to the elegance line. the cream color is a good rep of the sbgm221 and will scratch that itch much better. To me, the case construction just feels more solid (i didn't weigh them but it feels just slightly heavier but in a good solid way). Finding nice hands are much easier because they are closer to gen.
• disadvantages: they need a good white kiku textured dial. These dials have gorgeous colors, but at least with the ones i have, they are not textured and range from matte (cream) to sunburst.

-----

Some random small differences:

• Option 1 has a trapezoid crown shape, option 2 has flat cylindrical shape. both are push-in crowns
• they have slightly different glass shapes (see pictures)
• slightly different bezels (see pictures)
• same overall case size

-----

ok, that's everything that comes to mind description wise. if you have any questions let me know. I'll do a separate post on the different types of GS options out there too

****Explanation of the pictures****
The first picture (4 watches) is 2 of the option1 (right side) and 2 of the option2 (left side). I then compared the 2 options using the same matching color dial (of different sizes). If you have any questions please ask.

*Reposting because i'm an idiot and included links to buy these kits and reddit removed the post. If you want links- please send a dm or check my page (i'll pin a post if there's demand)*

Hello All-
(apologize for the long post, but hopefully it will be interesting to some)

I've been building *-a lot-* of various grand seiko builds lately. There's 5+ distinctly different build types, but 2 of them are very similar (x2 elegance types, evolution 9, gmt sport, and tentagraph). There's more actually but they start getting more subtle and for this post let's just say 5. For this post, i wanted to share some pics differentiating the 2 different elegance / cocktail builds available side by side, because it's easy to not spot the difference by themselves.

As a quick preface, grand seiko reps are interesting... They do have some pretty close 'replica' reps (aiming for a copy), but most of them are "replica-like", in that they are close, but have fantasy proportions or colorways. That said, they have a lot of fun fantasy colors and they all look good enough that if someone isn't specifically knowledgable with the GS catalogue, one may never know (in general, not as many people are experts at GS models it seems).

**Also, i am not an expert either, so please educate me if i have any of this information incorrect- i'm simply trying to share observations**

For my very personal taste, it doesn't get any better than the Grand Seiko sbgm221 GMT. It's part of their 'Elegance' collection and there's a number of variations, including the stunning sbgm235 'kiku' textured dial.

As mentioned up top, Interestingly enough, there are 2 similar, yet distinctly different builds you can do that both aim at repping these:

Option 1

• 39.5mm case that uses a 35mm dial.
• 2 piece 'standard' case design with clear screw down caseback. GS markings on the dial, crown, caseback, and butterfly clasp.
• These have 5 main 'easy to find' color options for dials- White, Black, Navy Blue, Light Blue, and Cream/Yellow
• The White, Black, and Navy Blue dials have a wonderful textured pattern designed to be similar to the sbgm235 kiku dial
• 20mm lugs
• 14mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: the huge 35mm dials look stunning! done.
• disadvantages: these are more 'fantasy' builds that use a combination of many aspects. The dials are larger than reality. Getting nice GS hands with matching (longer) length is more difficult- they come with longer hands for the larger dials, but they are garbage. The cream/yellow dial does not match the coloring of a sbgm221. Its distinctly more yellow.

They are a fantasy representation of the elegance line, but that doesn't stop them from looking fantastic. And they are the only ones with the textured dials like a sbgm235 kiku.

------

Option 2

• 39.5mm case that uses a 31mm dial.
• 3 piece case design with a top piece with crystal integrated in a metal housing, mid case, and caseback that is secured through 6 pass-through screws from the back. Multiple gaskets for each part plus double gaskets on each screw. (this is how the gen ones are)
• gs markings on dial, crown, and clasp- note, it does not have markings on the caseback
• 5+ options available (but i only have 3 right now to share pics of)- cream, black, light blue, green, and a darker blue (i think others too)
• 19mm lugs
• 13.75mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: these are closer in proportion to the elegance line. the cream color is a good rep of the sbgm221 and will scratch that itch much better. To me, the case construction just feels more solid (i didn't weigh them but it feels just slighly heavier but in a good solid way). Finding nice hands are much easier because they are closer to gen.
• disadvantages: they need a good white kiku textured dial. These dials have gorgeous colors, but at least with the ones i have, they are not textured and range from matte (cream) to sunburst.

-----

Some random small differences:

• Option 1 has a trapazoid crown shape, option 2 has flat cylindrical shape. both are push-in crowns
• they have slightly different glass shapes (see pictures)
• slightly different bezels (see pictures)
• same overall case size

-----

ok, that's everything that comes to mind description wise. if you have any questions let me know. I'll do a separate post on the different types of GS options out there too

****Explaination of the pictures****
The first picture (4 watches) is 2 of the option1 (right side) and 2 of the option2 (left side). I then compared the 2 options using the same matching color dial (of different sizes). If you have any questions please ask.

Hello All-
(apologize for the long post, but hopefully it will be interesting to some)

I've been building *-a lot-* of various grand seiko builds lately. There's 5+ distinctly different build types, but 2 of them are very similar (x2 elegance types, evolution 9, gmt sport, and tentagraph). There's more actually but they start getting more subtle and for this post let's just say 5. For this post, i wanted to share some pics differentiating the 2 different elegance / cocktail builds available side by side, because it's easy to not spot the difference by themselves.

As a quick preface, grand seiko reps are interesting... They do have some pretty close 'replica' reps (aiming for a copy), but most of them are "replica-like", in that they are close, but have fantasy proportions or colorways. That said, they have a lot of fun fantasy colors and they all look good enough that if someone isn't specifically knowledgable with the GS catalogue, one may never know (in general, not as many people are experts at GS models it seems).

**Also, i am not an expert either, so please educate me if i have any of this information incorrect- i'm simply trying to share observations**

For my very personal taste, it doesn't get any better than the Grand Seiko sbgm221 GMT. It's part of their 'Elegance' collection and there's a number of variations, including the stunning sbgm235 'kiku' textured dial.

As mentioned up top, Interestingly enough, there are 2 similar, yet distinctly different builds you can do that both aim at repping these:

Option 1

• 39.5mm case that uses a 35mm dial.
• 2 piece 'standard' case design with clear screw down caseback. GS markings on the dial, crown, caseback, and butterfly clasp.
• These have 5 main 'easy to find' color options for dials- White, Black, Navy Blue, Light Blue, and Cream/Yellow
• The White, Black, and Navy Blue dials have a wonderful textured pattern designed to be similar to the sbgm235 kiku dial
• 20mm lugs
• 14mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: the huge 35mm dials look stunning! done.
• disadvantages: these are more 'fantasy' builds that use a combination of many aspects. The dials are larger than reality. Getting nice GS hands with matching (longer) length is more difficult- they come with longer hands for the larger dials, but they are garbage. The cream/yellow dial does not match the coloring of a sbgm221. Its distinctly more yellow.

They are a fantasy representation of the elegance line, but that doesn't stop them from looking fantastic. And they are the only ones with the textured dials like a sbgm235 kiku.

------

Option 2

• 39.5mm case that uses a 31mm dial.
• 3 piece case design with a top piece with crystal integrated in a metal housing, mid case, and caseback that is secured through 6 pass-through screws from the back. Multiple gaskets for each part plus double gaskets on each screw. (this is how the gen ones are)
• gs markings on dial, crown, and clasp- note, it does not have markings on the caseback
• 5+ options available (but i only have 3 right now to share pics of)- cream, black, light blue, green, and a darker blue (i think others too)
• 19mm lugs
• 13.75mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: these are closer in proportion to the elegance line. the cream color is a good rep of the sbgm221 and will scratch that itch much better. To me, the case construction just feels more solid (i didn't weigh them but it feels just slighly heavier but in a good solid way). Finding nice hands are much easier because they are closer to gen.
• disadvantages: they need a good white kiku textured dial. These dials have gorgeous colors, but at least with the ones i have, they are not textured and range from matte (cream) to sunburst.

-----

Some random small differences:

• Option 1 has a trapezoid crown shape, option 2 has flat cylindrical shape. both are push-in crowns
• they have slightly different glass shapes (see pictures)
• slightly different bezels (see pictures)
• same overall case size

-----

ok, that's everything that comes to mind description wise. if you have any questions let me know. I'll do a separate post on the different types of GS options out there too

****Explanation of the pictures****
The first picture (4 watches) is 2 of the option1 (right side) and 2 of the option2 (left side). I then compared the 2 options using the same matching color dial (of different sizes). If you have any questions please ask.

Hello All-
(apologize for the long post, but hopefully it will be interesting to some)

I've been building *-a lot-* of various grand seiko builds lately. There's 5+ distinctly different build types, but 2 of them are very similar (x2 elegance types, evolution 9, gmt sport, and tentagraph). There's more actually but they start getting more subtle and for this post let's just say 5. For this post, i wanted to share some pics differentiating the 2 different elegance / cocktail builds available side by side, because it's easy to not spot the difference by themselves.

As a quick preface, grand seiko reps are interesting... They do have some pretty close 'replica' reps (aiming for a copy), but most of them are "replica-like", in that they are close, but have fantasy proportions or colorways. That said, they have a lot of fun fantasy colors and they all look good enough that if someone isn't specifically knowledgable with the GS catalogue, one may never know (in general, not as many people are experts at GS models it seems).

**Also, i am not an expert either, so please educate me if i have any of this information incorrect- i'm simply trying to share observations**

For my very personal taste, it doesn't get any better than the Grand Seiko sbgm221 GMT. It's part of their 'Elegance' collection and there's a number of variations, including the stunning sbgm235 'kiku' textured dial.

As mentioned up top, Interestingly enough, there are 2 similar, yet distinctly different builds you can do that both aim at repping these:

Option 1

• 39.5mm case that uses a 35mm dial.
• 2 piece 'standard' case design with clear screw down caseback. GS markings on the dial, crown, caseback, and butterfly clasp.
• These have 5 main 'easy to find' color options for dials- White, Black, Navy Blue, Light Blue, and Cream/Yellow
• The White, Black, and Navy Blue dials have a wonderful textured pattern designed to be similar to the sbgm235 kiku dial
• 20mm lugs
• 14mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: the huge 35mm dials look stunning! done.
• disadvantages: these are more 'fantasy' builds that use a combination of many aspects. The dials are larger than reality. Getting nice GS hands with matching (longer) length is more difficult- they come with longer hands for the larger dials, but they are garbage. The cream/yellow dial does not match the coloring of a sbgm221. Its distinctly more yellow.

They are a fantasy representation of the elegance line, but that doesn't stop them from looking fantastic. And they are the only ones with the textured dials like a sbgm235 kiku.

------

Option 2

• 39.5mm case that uses a 31mm dial.
• 3 piece case design with a top piece with crystal integrated in a metal housing, mid case, and caseback that is secured through 6 pass-through screws from the back. Multiple gaskets for each part plus double gaskets on each screw. (this is how the gen ones are)
• gs markings on dial, crown, and clasp- note, it does not have markings on the caseback
• 5+ options available (but i only have 3 right now to share pics of)- cream, black, light blue, green, and a darker blue (i think others too)
• 19mm lugs
• 13.75mm thick crystal to caseback
• advantages: these are closer in proportion to the elegance line. the cream color is a good rep of the sbgm221 and will scratch that itch much better. To me, the case construction just feels more solid (i didn't weigh them but it feels just slighly heavier but in a good solid way). Finding nice hands are much easier because they are closer to gen.
• disadvantages: they need a good white kiku textured dial. These dials have gorgeous colors, but at least with the ones i have, they are not textured and range from matte (cream) to sunburst.

-----

Some random small differences:

• Option 1 has a trapazoid crown shape, option 2 has flat cylindrical shape. both are push-in crowns
• they have slightly different glass shapes (see pictures)
• slightly different bezels (see pictures)
• same overall case size

-----

ok, that's everything that comes to mind description wise. if you have any questions let me know. I'll do a separate post on the different types of GS options out there too

****Expaination of the pictures****
The first picture (4 watches) is 2 of the option1 (right side) and 2 of the option2 (left side). I then compared the 2 options using the same matching color dial (of different sizes). If you have any questions please ask.

44mm case
31.5mm dial
Screw down crown
Genuine seiko nh34 GMT movement
Stainless steel bracelet feels solid and not flimsy
Illuminated bezel insert
Full gs markings (dial, crown, caseback, bracelet)

This black one is ready to ship from california. i have other colors available and made as well (i have a blue and a green still for now until more parts arrive)

$400 shipped within USA.

This is a 3 piece 39.5mm case with a 31mm dial. The 3 piece case has 2 separate gaskets for the top and bottom, and is held together with 6 pass-through screws that all have their own gaskets. All gaskets are properly lubed. Makes for a robust and extremely classy case

31mm dial and the cream one is a great rep of a sbgm221.

genuine seiko nh34 movement

GS markings on the dial, crown, and butterfly clasp.

These 3 are built and ready to ship from california (i stock extra parts and can build more, so don't worry about long waits.) happy to share additional pics or videos

$340 shipped within CONUS. Please add $10 if doing PP G+S - encouraged for your confidence).
Happy to share references- this is my beloved hobby and reach out to geek out and chat watches anytime (never pressure to buy). Also, happy to share parts lists and tips if you want to build them yourself.

SPB301J1 OEM dial, and 62mas case set from secondhand mods (permanent collection)

SPB301J1 OEM dial, and 62mas case set from secondhand mods (permanent collection),

These 3 piece case builds are really fun but do not forget to lube all the gaskets. Top and bottom sections have their own dedicated o-rings. Each screw that passes through the case has 2 gaskets each, one for each half. Then of course the crown (which is push down). Keep that extra tub of silicon grease handy.

But worth it, holy smokes. I like these 31mm dials better than the 35mm larger cocktail builds (personal opinion YMMV) and the beige one really nails the sbgm221 rep aesthetic

Build them yourself! Or let me build it for you (Or have your fav builder use them, I don’t care). Nothing secret or exclusive going on with the parts- it’s more about who you want to work with.
https://a.aliexpress.com/\_mKh4fFp

https://www.instagram.com/\_moxietime

now with all 4 colors i've seen available. I tried to get a better pic this time of the nice concave backside these have- really makes a difference hugging the wrist and feeling slimmer.

This white one is sold but the others are looking for new homes :)

Microbrand NTH sadly went out of business few years back. Luckily, I bought a bunch of new unused/unassembled stock before these parts are unavailable forever.

Super thin miyota 9015 date at 6, with specifically made (thin) case to go with it. Fully illuminated dial and insert with blacked out snowflakes. On a premium beads of rice bracelet.

Video here~
https://www.instagram.com/p/DcJ0MuKEqaD/?img_index=2&igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==&igsi=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Here’s the original watch when it was for sale:
https://www.seriouswatches.com/products/nth-nacken-vintage-white-v2

44mm case
31.5mm dial
Screw down crown
Genuine seiko nh34 GMT movement
Stainless steel bracelet feels solid and not flimsy
Illuminated bezel insert
Full gs markings

$400 shipped within USA. Happy to take requests for other variations (including gmt hand color)

40mm case
35mm dial
Genuine seiko nh34 GMT movement
Stainless steel bracelet
Upgraded / better hands than the junk the leather-strap version comes with

44mm case
31.5mm dial
Screw down crown
Genuine seiko nh34 GMT movement
Stainless steel bracelet
Illuminated bezel insert
Full gs markings

Classic snxs77k1 from eBay
- upgraded movement to a nh36
- new sapphire crystal
- jubilee bracelet
- solid slim caseback

This project took a while to finish up because of some really long shipping times on some of the parts but happy to finish it off. Seriously nothing else like this shade of blue 🔥😍

Made this a bit ago as a directed commission (they sent me the case and I ordered OEM both dial and hands (srpc25 and sbdy136).

This is where I learned about 4.1 orientation nh36s. Had no idea that was a thing until i used a 3.8 crown nh36 and realized it was crooked (thank you /u/_Blitzer for the knowledge assist). Another day another lesson learned.

Lots of waiting on this one for various parts to arrive. But waiting is the main activity of this hobby..

• 44.5mm case, but it feels smaller with the rectangle shape and the concave curvature of the back side
• based on / rep of the "Grand Seiko Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SLGC009 Watch - Sport"
• chrono and subdials all work (of course)
• powered by a seiko vk63 movement
• all new and handled only for photos. Includes black watch case. This blue one is ready and shipping from california immediately.
• $400 shipped within CONUS. Please add $10 if doing PP G+S - encouraged for your confidence)
• I have more colors / textures not yet built (see photos)

39.5mm case with push-in crown

33.5mm dial

clear or solid casebacks (solid has additional gs markings)

12mm thick

no lume

genuine seiko nh35

all new and handled only for photos. Includes black watch case. These are ready and shipping from california immediately.

$300 shipped within CONUS. Please add $10 if doing PP G+S - encouraged for your confidence)

I have more colors / textures not yet built, and I do custom orders for the additional colors/textures out there