Hello! Does anyone know of a machine shop or mechanic that will press out a bushing for me? On the peninsula hopefully but the east or south bay are fine too. Would be great if I could just walk in, it’s just a single diff cover bushing
I’ve seen a couple different suggestions for needle paint, but I also see it looking quite splotchy when painted and there is a youtube video of someone getting great results with just a red sharpie. Anyone have experience? How have yours held up to sun and does the light still shine thru them well?
For context, i’m refreshing my cluster for hopefully the last time and swapping the tach to 7k rpm for an eventual s50 swap. I’ll be throwing odometer gears in for the second time and replacing all the bulbs with hella (chinese ones have started to fail 3 years in) as well as reflowing whatever solder joints I deem sketchy.
I just noticed while under my car yesterday that my e21 trans mounts are pretty beat up after about 3 years. To me, they cause essentially no nvh and I like that, though I could do with some more for more stiffness as I can move the trans easily with 1 hand right now. I’m considering getting the metal cups with my new set of e21 mounts, does anyone have experience with and without them? The added durability/stiffness/oil resistance is nice but I don’t want crazy nvh. I’ve been there with poly… never again lol.
Here the whole situation. 11/85 86 325es:
idled at 550 steady, just low
adjusted icv screw… no change
cleaned icv
with the cleaned icv, the screw adjustment I made set in and it idled way too low
adjusted idle to 750 once it was warm.. probably after approx 5 min of driving
drove the next day. all of the sudden it’s idling at 1000. never idled at 750, even when it may have been at the specific temp of 5min into driving.
started car after 10 min of sitting from hot. it started up better than it ever had and idled at 750. the second I revved it, or even before, the idle climbed to 1000 over a couple of seconds
now, adjusting the screw does nothing to the 1000rpm idle. but, it does change that idle speed i can get if i start the car warm. so the screw is working, but in a weird way, and once driving rpm defaults to 1000 idle no matter what
What might this be? As additional info the icv flap worked before and after cleaning it with carb cleaner. Leaning toward the green ICM box at this point.
Ive had a hard time keeping track of chord changes and hitting chord tones consistently while mixing them with scales of the chords and remaining creative. I can have interesting phrases without, but it’s like rough once they’re mixed together. I’ve found practicing 2 chord sequences makes this a lot more possible and it’s building confidence for sure. This loop is basically FOTM back 2 frets.. oops lol
Probably backstage, with a tweed Fender Champ and his Doug Irwin “Wolf” guitar
I loved my BOTD but only really found the stratoblaster side to be unique and useful… the “mutron” side was super easy to replicate with an eq pedal boosting and the buffer is redundant in my board. The stratoblaster was super interesting though, it seemed to be a slightly “dirty”, or as farm describes it, gritty boost. I bought/built the GGG stratoblaster DIY kit and… it’s exactly the same. The build was really easy and should be doable by anyone who has soldered before. If you’re on the fence about a BOTD or they’re just too expensive, I highly reccomend you at least try out the GGG or similar (there is someone who builds pretty much the exact kit and sells it assembled on here iirc). It was $45 shipped to my door, and probably 1-2 hours of work depending on experience.
It’s definitely not a “better” pedal than the BOTD, but if you wont use the 2 other features, it’ll save you money and the stratoblaster side is essentially the same exactly.