u/sixexx6

Image 1 — CC DS compatibility question
Image 2 — CC DS compatibility question
Image 3 — CC DS compatibility question

CC DS compatibility question

Going to do a bedrock 36v 200A continuous lithium conversion on my 1993 CC DS. Trying to figure out if my 400A 1205-1112 36v Curtis controller will be compatible before I purchase. I don't do a lot of driving, maybe one or two steep short hills. I have a cheap 10lol 36v 125A continuous solenoid that I was going to upgrade to a heavy duty 400A. I don't have a lift kit, it's a two seater, non resistor cart with only headlights as an add on which I have a 48v to 12v reducer. I already upgraded to 2g and 14g wiring. It's also a v-glide and I have a 250ohm 5watt resistor and 3a diode on the current solenoid. With all that said, is it safe to just drop in the conversion kit with the new solenoid without anything else? Will there be an issue with the battery and controller? Do I even need to upgrade to a 400A solenoid? 

u/sixexx6 — 2 days ago
▲ 5 r/MINI

Help with rear main seal please

Really hoping for some help with this. I'm going to try to be thorough with information to hopefully get the most helpful response. I have a 2014 mini countryman s FWD AUTO trans r60 n18 123k miles . It appears to be leaking oil from bell housing weep hole. I noticed this a few weeks ago while changing the oil. I already replaced the turbo oil lines (Detroit tunned) the oil cooler housing gaskets, the front main seal, the oil pan gasket, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain, valve stem seals, breather tube, vanos o-rings, and had the turbo rebuilt about two years ago. I don't believe the leak is from any of those. My guess is the rear main seal or dowty seals. I can't find a tutorial on an auto mini RMS replacement, mostly on a manual. Would this basically be the same thing but instead of a clutch plate and flywheel, I would need to remove a flex plate and torque converter? Is there any special directions to remove the torque converter? I thought I saw some post saying to loosen each converter bolt through a hole somewhere individually while manually cranking the engine. Can I just separate the trans from motor and then take the converter off? I'm trying to figure out if this is possible with either the front end removal option or dropping the subframe option? Is it basically one or the other or do both need to be done? I've seen people remove the engine and trans, also seen the engine supported with a jack or crossbar with hooks on top of the engine and trans dropped out alone. Are there bolts that are a one time use only? I'm assuming both axles have to be removed? Are there any special torque settings for the bolts? Is there anything else that should be replaced while this is all apart? I know this is a long post and would greatly appreciate any help offered.

u/sixexx6 — 18 days ago