u/teamsdf

After seeing this video from Steve’s assorted stuff: https://youtu.be/IcYIapunul4

I thought of instead of modifying my furniture, why not add a box to the monitor itself! That way I can mess with specific inputs without having to reach around back and also have it be completely reversible. I bought some keystone jacks off of amazon and 3D printed this little keystone box!

The box isn’t perfect since I had to trim some little tabs on the jacks to get it to fit snugly, but other than that it works swell!

My main has been having some issues with arcing so, when the opportunity came to pickup a spare for a reasonable price, I pounced on it. Then the seller just happened to mention one with no modules he was looking to unload and he just let me have it for free.99.

Needless to say this is wayyyyyy overkill for anything I can do in my current little space. But once I move houses with a larger dedicated game room, I hope to get all three up and running and doing their things!

My recently acquired SF-1 suddenly lost about half of the blue color intensity. The Super Nintendo had a yellow tint to the color. I tested the external input with a known working console to test the tube itself and that showed up perfectly.

My hunt then turned to the internal SNES circuit board. These are notorious for capacitor failures so I replaced all of the caps to no avail. Interestingly, during these tests I learned that the multi out port was also dead, but then revived with the recap.

After a ton of probing and prodding and measuring with my oscilloscope, I found a bad trace near the video encoder chip that is responsible for the color timing circuit.

One bodge wire later and we’re back in business!

Hey friends!

For anyone who needs to work on these Sharp SF-1 boards, I was able to get it running outside of the TV itself! I like this so you don’t have to have a CRT tube energized next to your face when you are working on it.

You need a 5V and 12V supply (12 may be unnecessary) and on the connector labeled EC, you supply +5v, +12v, +5v, GND. From bottom to top. Bottom being closest to the cartridge slot not the AV output. The last two pins are also GND and can be left unpopulated.

I am working on a problem I have where the blue not giving full power. I have traced the lines from the PPU to the encoder chip and all looks okay. Also I replaced the encoder chip. I’ll keep poking around, but this is my setup for safety!

Hey friends!

I recently completed a 3D model for my 36” 320. And I thought I would upload it for the world to use! Let me know if you print it and if it works for you!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7368298

Hey there friends!

When I picked up this monster, sadly the front door snapped right off. I wept softly that night.

However, my lovely fiancée gifted me a 3D printer recently and I just KNEW I had to put it to use! But to my surprise, no models of this style trinitron door exist. I believe the 310 and 320 series both use the same door, but vary in size.

The orange is just a prototype color, I will print it in a metallic silver soon now that I know it fits and stays on tight!

If anyone is interested, I can upload the STL so you can print your own!

Picked up a broken spare for cheap! But the case is immaculate.

Got this lovely beast for a STEAL as untested for “junk” from
Japan. They sure do know how to package stuff safely! Now off to print a new front panel cover!