u/tobey_g

I recently got the WeAct RP2350A_V10 and was wondering if anyone else have tinkered with this board? I'm currently trying to program it by uploading code via SWD (through the Raspberry Pi Debug Probe) with PlatformIO, but it doesn't work. The actual upload process is successful, according to the logs, but the board itself never runs the code even after power recycle.

The only thing that works is powering it in BOOTSEL mode and dragging the ef2 file onto the mass storage device that gets mounted, but this is to me a very cumbersome method compared to just uploading code continously through PlatformIO.

The platformio.ini config that I'm using is this:

[env:default]
platform = https://github.com/maxgerhardt/platform-raspberrypi.git
framework = arduino
board = rpipico2
board_build.core = earlephilhower
upload_protocol = cmsis-dap

Am I missing something fundamental here? The official Pico 2 just works flawlessly with this config, but I wonder if there is something else required with the WeAct board in terms of powering it in a certain mode or something with the on-board buttons being "BOOT" and "RESET"?

I recently got the WeAct RP2350A_V10 and was reading the pinout diagram. I’m currently doing a project where I provide 3.3V externally and when using the original Pico 2 board I’m providing that to pin 39. But looking at the pinout for the WeAct board, it says that pin 39 accepts 3.6-6.5V where I assume that an internal regulator makes it 3.3V.

Have anyone used this board and can verify if it’s possible to use 3.3V externally with it? Would I use VBUS instead? Because I assume connecting it to pin 36 labelled 3V3 would create conflicts with the internal regulator, if it’s an output as with the Pico 2? Or can I disable the internal regulator with the EN pin?

Jag driver en breadboard-prototyp från en bänk PSU som ger 18V som sedan går genom en buck-omvandlare för 5V och sedan en LDO för 3,3V. Blue Pill är kopplad till 3,3V som kommer från LDO:n och 18V, 5V och 3,3V delar alla samma jord.

Jag har läst om vad jag ska göra med 3,3V-stiftet på ST Link v2-klonen som jag använder för programmering, och enligt min förståelse kan det eller till och med bör lämnas oanslutet om strömförsörjningen ges externt för Blue Pill.

Problemet jag får är att om jag kopplar bort 3,3V-stiftet från ST Link och försöker programmera Blue Pill, får jag ett "kan inte ansluta till målet"-fel. Om jag bara använder 3,3V från ST Link, medan PSU:n är av, så lyckas programmeringen. Jag kan också använda både 3,3V som kommer från PSU:n och 3,3V som kommer från ST Link samtidigt, och det verkar fungera med lyckad programmering. Så sammanfattningsvis behöver 3,3V-stiftet från ST Link vara kopplat för att programmeringen ska fungera.

Men om jag stänger av PSU:n, kopplar 3,3V från ST Link, slår på PSU:n och sedan av igen, får jag ett äckligt surrande ljud från kretsen. Också när 3,3V är kopplad från ST Link med PSU:n avstängd, verkar LDO:n få ström baklänges, eftersom ström-LED:en på breakout-kortet för den fortsätter att lysa.

Jag har försökt mäta mellan GND från Blue Pill (som är kopplad till samma jord som PSU:n, buck-omvandlare och LDO) och GND på ST Link v2, och det ger mig 0mV. Så de verkar vara kopplade till samma jord åtminstone.

I’ve connected 18V from external bench power supply to a buck converter set to 5V. Then from 5V to an LDO outputting 3.3V and then finally to a STM32 Blue Pill. Everything is on breakout boards on a breadboard.

When I measure outputs from all power sources they read correctly at around 17.9V, 5V and 3.2V. They all share the same ground.

But connecting the 3.3V to the 3.3V pins of the Blue Pill, with it’s ground pins connected to the same ground, it doesn’t power up. I’ve also tried connecting 5V from the buck converter to the 5V of the Blue Pill with no results. I can however connect it to an ST Link V2 and make it receive 3.3V from that, and powers it without issues.

No idea what I’m missing, but it’s probably something very dumb and basic.

I’m doing a bit of prototyping with a Blue Pill. I want to use USB purely for communication while simultaneously using a ST Link v2 clone for debugging and programming and supply power for 3.3V externally from a bench power supply.

What should I do in order to avoid any conflict or even damage when having these things connected at the same time? I assume that I can leave 3.3V from the ST Link disconnected. But 5V from USB is regulated down to 3.3V internally on the Blue Pill, right? So do I need to somehow prevent the USB from supplying 5V as well?

When doing this bare metal without using the Blue Pull, I would simply not use 5V from USB in the schematic, but now I’m kind of forced to work around this given how things are connected on the Blue Pill module.

A few years ago I bought glasses online from Ace & Tate but I ended up not wearing them a lot because I was never fully comfortable neither mentally or physically with wearing them.

The thing is that I have a huge head and a lot of the glasses I try are leaning forwards quite a lot due to the temples being too short for my head. It’s not too much of a problem width wise from ear to ear, it’s more the depth that is an issue.

I guess those online brands like Ace & Tate or Bloobloom are just not for me given their ”one size fits all” approach. So what are my alternatives? Can you modify glasses that you buy from these companies, extending the temples, or am I stuck with brands that offer longer temples?

I’m making a box with 8x66 mm Baltic pine sides. The box will measure around 300x170 mm. Since I’m going for something basic, I want to use traditional miter joints, so each side is cut in 45 degrees right angle.

I’ve understood that only glueing the joints is a bad idea. But if I despite that were to go that path, are there things to think about in order to at least avoid an absolute, total catastrophe?

Should both sides be glued? Should I use more glue than usual? Extra strong glue? I thought about enforcing it with brad nails, but I worry that they will split the wood very easily since it’s only 8 mm thick?

When drilling holes in 1.5 mm aluminum sheets using your average drill driver for front panels, I've tried center punching, placing the tip of the drill as exact as possible on the center, then keeping a straight angle and a firm grip as possible, but it always ends up getting off by quite a bit. It's not even practical because some components will just not fit next to eachother if one hole ends up being too close to the other.

Is it only possible to achieve with a drill press or what are the tips for achieving straight holes by hand? It's not that the hole needs to be straight on the vertical obviously given the thin aluminum, it's more about the placement of the holes across the panel ending up all over the place.