

Length with suit?
Is this cord an OK / expected length to be worn at a formal event with a suit? Tips are ending about a half inch below my breastbone


Is this cord an OK / expected length to be worn at a formal event with a suit? Tips are ending about a half inch below my breastbone
My office has uncovered parking with no charging. During the summer, I see temps of 95+ pretty frequently. It’s parked outside with no shade every day during the hottest parts of the day. I know the BMS should be automatically managing the battery temp by intermittently running the battery’s cooling system. It sounds like previous gen bolts stopped running that auto protection under 40% SOC to avoid leaving you with dead battery.
Can anyone confirm what SOC the 2027 stops doing thermal management when not plugged in? One online source I found says 20%, which reflects the LFP battery being more stable than NMC at high temps (needs less cooling overall) and also the more efficient heat pump system using less power. But, it’s hard to confirm.
I don’t have home charging(apartment dweller) so I am usually just “filling up” one every week or so, which means ideally I will run it down to a lower SOC before recharging back to 100. During these hotter months, just want to make sure I don’t leave it parked outside to bake without enough SOC to protect itself.
Maybe I’m overthinking it but would still love to know if anyone has the answer.
Thanks!
Battery health has shown as “calculating” since day one. I now have 1800 miles on it over 2 months and have been through various low SOC-> high SOC cycles (including up to 100 probably 4 times now). Other 27 owners, does your battery health show a percentage?
I don’t need this reading, just am worried that something is amiss. Maybe my expectations are off and it takes way more miles to calculate that number?
If I recall correctly, I am pretty sure I saw a “100%” there on one of the models I test drove which had under 10 miles on it.
Hi everyone, 2 things I’m hoping someone might know something about:
1: driver display, when in single or dual gauge mode, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to edit the tile with the trip computer. It used to be a clock + outside temp, then when I was playing around with different displays I found the “add to driver display” within the trip information, and cannot change it back. I’m stuck with trip computer on the driver display as a result. I’ve been through every single menu in the system and can’t see an option to change it. What am I missing?
2: battery health indicator is stuck on “calculating,” it’s been that way since I bought the car. Never seems to actually calculate regardless of how long I leave it. Seems like a software glitch? I’ve already cycled through a couple of 100% charges to calibrate. Anyone else’s have this? Maybe I just need more miles on the battery before it will show a %?
2027 Lt. Got a lectron CCS to NACS adapter that is rated for 250kw charge speeds. Used it for the first time today on a DCFC that is capable of 60kw charging speeds. My charging maxed out at 30kw. Went from 60%-80%, and it is 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Battery was not preconditioned.
There was a vehicle after me that charged at 60kw. This is a workplace DCFC so I have access to the backend portal and can see stats for other charge sessions. Nothing seems to be wrong with charger.
Did I buy the wrong adapter, or was the vehicle likely limiting itself perhaps since it knew it was only going to be charging to 80% from 60% + 40 degree temps on a cold battery?
I am new to EV ownership so am not familiar on what charging curves should look like. This one was flat, straight to 30kw and stayed there until complete. I have not used DCFC before so I probably need to try it again at a lower SOC at a different location as well.
Hi all,
Question for those that have an LFP battery and live in a cold climate like New England or Canada.
I am moving to coastal Maine and have an LFP battery EV that has a heat pump and pre-condition capabilities. I will need to park the vehicle outside while at home. I might only have L1 charging at home, but will be in very close proximity to level 2/3/DCFC to supplement range I can’t recuperate overnight.
Does the added efficiency of a heat pump and ability to precondition the battery for charging negate the downsides of an LFP in the cold? Or am I setting myself up for failure in the winter months and need to consider an ICE or NMC battery ev instead?
I drive 25-50 miles a day, with maybe 100-150mile round trip weekend trips to surrounding areas.
Thoughts? What’s your experience with an LFP battery in a cold climate been? Or am I overthinking this and just need to accept that I’ll have less range and slower charging but everything will be fine?
Ive never had to rely on battery preconditioning and just don’t know what to expect as far as charging times in very cold weather.
Thanks!
Hi all,
Does anyone here that has had a 2027 for long enough to experience very cold weather (0-32F) have any insight?
I imagine with the LFP battery that typically is even more sensitive to cold, some or all of this is offset by the fact that this vehicle has a heat pump and preconditioning ability.
I love the longevity, safety, and simplicity (charge it to %100) of an LFP battery over an NMC but don’t know if I’d be making a bad choice to purchase one if I live in New England with cold winters and have to park outside overnight with L1 charging. I have plenty of L2 and DCFC within close proximity, though, and am willing to use those frequently.
I don’t drive much. 50 miles / day maximum with occasional 100-150 mile round trips with charging available most of the way.
Thoughts? Is having to park outside overnight a big enough issue to negate purchasing this vehicle in your opinion? Or does the preconditioning ability work well enough for winter charging times at public chargers to not take a huge hit? I know range will take a hit, I just don’t want to be stuck with a car that will barely take charge as well.
Thanks!
Just what the title says. I test drove a 2026 yesterday and dealer had it waiting for me at 100%. They said this is customary for test drives, which from a sales perspective I get that they want you to see the highest range possible on dash. However, with these things sitting for 30-90 days on the lot sometimes, is this potentially detrimental to battery health? It’s not like a test drive is ever using more than 5% battery, so I would think they’re sitting at 90-100% from the time it arrives on lot until the time it sells. This concerns me as my understanding is if you go to 100%, it should only be when you’re about to need it for a longer drive.
Am I splitting hairs here about this? Is there anything you’d do to check the specific car you’re purchasing beforehand? At this point seems like I’d just go for whatever vehicle arrived the most recently.