r/BoltEV

what is it with some of these stations (looking at you, graviti) requiring you to download and use their app just to charge? Can you imagine the uproar there would be if all ICE owners were forced to use an app just to pump fuel? I dont get why charging stations burden 100% of their customers with the extra hassle simply for owning an EV.

And then what if the app errors out.....repeatedly.....I might be speaking from experience here. It never did power up the cable but it sure as fuck charged me...that part of the app works perfectly.

I wish they would just put a damn card reader on the charger and be done with it. I dont need yet another shady app snooping on who knows what.

Does anyone do long work commutes in their bolt? For example my commute is 144 miles round trip and the range is 262 mile. Would it be reasonable for me to make a purchase on a bolt? I know I could make it home and since I live in Maryland I know the winter would affect range. I’m a sucker for compact cars and recently a sucker for EVs.

Hello everyone,

I have a bolt ev 2019 premium and I'm having issue with the 2 USB port in the central console for the android auto. One of the thing is the is keep disconnecting. It seems the connection inside is very flimsy.

But an issue I'm starting to get is while the phone is connected, android auto and music playing and phone saying it's charging, well the phone is actually discharging.

I have tried changing ports, changing phone, changing cable, all have the same issue.

We always leave the USB cable connected in the car specially to not damage the car usb but it seems then even with that, the car usb are getting damage by just vibration.

Does anyone else have this problem and did you find a fix?

I feel all electronics on that car are just garbage. As I have the premium, I also have the mirror camera and it stopped working 4 years ago.

Hi all I just bought a Snowsky echo mini mp3 player to load up all of my old songs from when I was an avid music collector. I bought a aux-USBc cable and the player doesnt show up as an option on the display in the car. The bolt does not have a dedicated aux port only usb-c and usb-a. I read through the linked post and there was something about checking that the format was FAT32, which the snowsky mini is as far as I can tell. I have a microusb card in the snowsky and its formatted to FAT32.

Any tips for getting the mp3 player to work? Has anyone bought one of these before?

I'm about to purchase my first car and am strongly considering a used 2022 Bolt EUV premier (35k miles, $22k). I have a short commute, 20 miles roundtrip 5 days a week, so I'm expecting overnight level 1 charging in my garage to almost always be enough.

I've never bought a car, so I'm trying to do as much research as possible. Is 22k around the right price? The other EVs I was considering were an Ioniq 5 or Hyundai Kona, but it seems unnecessary to go up in price when the technology will improve and I might want to upgrade in 5 years anyway. Any other advice for a first time buyer would be appreciated! No one in my social circle knows about EVs.

Edit: I also check the battery recall status by VIN and it was never replaced, but it said that this one didn't need to be due to software monitoring. Don't know if that checks out

I rented a Bolt ev a while back and absolutely loved it. I’m thinking of purchasing one as our family car for around town.

Probably max budget is $12k, but there are a lot of options out there. I’m just not sure what to be worried about concerning battery degradation, and my wife is very fond of the idea of a bolt/hybrid as she is worried about getting stranded. What recommendations do you have? Will this be a good fit for my young family of 5?

I generally drive a car until the wheels fall off, what kind of lifetime can I expect on one of these guys? Is installing a charger fairly easy? We live in a small town, 45 minutes outside of Charlotte and there are no chargers here.

Do you guys know if the 2023 Bolt EUV keyfobs or cars have relay attack mitigation methods or not? The car seems new enough that it might have them, but I haven't found any info on it. A mitigation method is something like the keyfob doesn't respond unless it's moving. I'm wondering if I should add a rfid blocker faraday cage to my list of 'things to buy to hit free shipping.'

A relay attack is used to open/steal your car by amplifying the signals from the car and keyfob to make it seem like they're next to each other when they aren't.

Hi - I could really use the views of members here. Im in the process of buying a 2023 Bolt EUV with 56,000km.

In discussions with the sales rep at a local Chevrolet dealer, I was told that the battery had 86% capacity. I took this to mean 86% of original capacity. A quick online scan makes this seem like abnormal degradation. The sales rep told me this was a great score but I paused the sale out of suspicion.

Im new to EVs. Is this low? For clarity, when I first asked about battery health, I’m pretty sure the rep said it was 98%, furthering my suspicion .

I did my first long distance drive with my Bolt. Overall quite painless. Especially since I think that I need more breaks than the Bolt.

But I don't understand a few things:

1. Using my odb2, ARBP displays battery capacity as 54 kWh. Why not 65? Is 54 the total capacity, or is the remaining 11 some reserve below displayed 0%? Mine is a 2022 EV with 32k miles.
2. While driving, sometimes I get 5 miles/kW, sometimes 3.2. I can't really tell why it is 3.2 - it wasn't on uphils or driving especially fast. Even at 65 or 55 mph, with or without AC. With 3.2 I start to get really anxious that I won't make the target set by ARBP. It seems really iffy to plan a 200 mile drive to arrive at 10%, but then your use might be 3, 4, or 5 miles/kW, which means your range will be 150 or maybe 250.

So I have a 2023 bolt EV that's fully paid off at 30k miles, and during my 30k check I popped in and asked about what I'd be looking at if I traded it in for a 2027. After the Costco discount+ the dealership standard 3k that's everywhere, they were able to match CarMax's quote of 17k on the trade in. So I'm at around $11,200 out the door after tax for the comfort package.

I use DCFC once a week to charge and figure I'd be out 3k or so for new tires+extended warranty anyways but I'm just looking for feedback on others who have made the jump.

Thanks!

I purchased a 2017 premier on the 18th of June. My first ever electric car. A few days ago I got the propulsion power reduced warning and light. Dropped it off at the dealership this morning and apparently it has all these codes. I find it difficult to reconcile the fact that these critical system failures—which clearly indicate foundational electronic and cooling faults—have manifested so rapidly within just three weeks of ownership. Anyone with experience on these codes and know whether these issues will be converted by the bolt battery limited part warranty?

P0C12: Drive Motor A Position Sensor Circuit.
P1E00: Hybrid/EV Powertrain Control Module 2 Requested MIL Illumination.
P0C13: Drive Motor A Position Sensor Circuit Low.
P0CE9: Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Pump Control Circuit Performance.
P1F45: Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Pump Control Circuit High Voltage.
P0AC4: Hybrid/EV Powertrain Control Module Requested MIL Illumination.
P19FB: Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Pump Control Circuit Low Voltage.