How to have submax bouldering sessions
Hey everyone.
I’ve been climbing for about 8 years and have spent most of that time following the same pattern: if I spend my training days doing hard limit bouldering and project sessions, I get strong and send hard, then I get injured. If I start mixing in “light” sessions, I stop improving and even start to go backwards, but stay healthy.
So what does a submaximal bouldering session look like for you? I tried one yesterday and felt like I was just farting around on stuff way below my max. I did some perfect repeats, hopped on my anti-style (slab) but it felt unfocused and like I was probably just accruing junk volume.
How do you incorporate sessions that are mostly working below your limit in order to refine technique, keep injury at bay, work weaknesses, etc? What’s your rep scheme? How often are you having sessions that look like this? How far below your max is most of this work happening?
For context I have climbed V7 on the mini Moonboard and have a handful of V5s outside.
Thanks!