u/wouter14071985

Hi All,

I am an artist and want to divide my designs across several 20 × 20 cm wooden blocks made from pine or spruce, finishing them with epoxy to add gloss and depth. I'm using the Mr. Boat Epoxy Ultra Clear 03.

However, I am experiencing a problem with the epoxy finish. I have attached several photographs showing the blocks and the issue that appears in the top layer during or after curing. The epoxy does not cure to a completely smooth finish. A type of texture remains in the surface, resembling greasy marks or stains. The surface is also not completely level and smooth.

I thought it was amine blush but i can't remove it with water & soap, it's not a layer that's on top but really in the resin itself.

The photographs were, of course, taken from very close up and directly against the light. At first glance, the effect is therefore less noticeable, but the finish is not good enough for me to sell the pieces.

The wooden blocks are prepared as follows:

• 20 × 20 cm spruce wood, coated with three layers of white water-based paint.
• I apply my designs using a technique known as waterslide decals. These consist of a very thin printable film. The decal is submerged in water, which releases it from the backing paper. It is then applied to the wood and adheres as it dries.
• I protect the waterslide decal with three coats of acrylic spray (SprayMax 1K). I allow the entire piece to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding to the next step.

My current epoxy process is as follows:

• I work in a 10 m² room inside my home, with the window slightly open for ventilation (photo of the room and setup included).
• During the most recent pour, the room temperature was 21°C (70F). The epoxy is also stored in this room. During the first 12 hours after pouring, the temperature gradually fluctuated between 20C and 23C (68F and 73F).
• The humidity was around 55% when i poured (11 AM) and was 67% the day after (9 AM).
• I clean the surface of the wooden blocks—the printed design with its acrylic topcoat—with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. I then allow it to dry for at least ten minutes.
• I measure the epoxy components by weight according to the specified mixing ratio and mix them for at least three minutes. I have also tried the double-cup method: after mixing, I transfer the epoxy into a second measuring cup before pouring it onto the blocks.
• I pour a small quantity of epoxy—approximately 80 ml per block—onto the centre of each block. I allow it to spread briefly and then distribute it by hand, while wearing a nitrile glove, all the way to the edges.
• I leave it for a few minutes and then use a small torch to remove the air bubbles, i am careful not to torch to long to not overheat the epoxy, it's a quick move. I've also used a bubble spray and in my last pour i had some blocks that's i've not touched at all (no torch or bubble spray). All blocks had the same result.
• During the most recent pour, I also covered some blocks with plastic A4 storage boxes because I suspected that airflow in the room might be affecting the top layer. I left a small opening at the bottom so that the blocks were not completely sealed off.
• After 20 minutes, I perform one final check for irregularities or air bubbles. I then cover the blocks again and leave them undisturbed.

I have now worked with epoxy products from several different brands. The Mr. Boat epoxy has given me the best result so far, but the finish is still not quite as smooth as I need it to be. I initially suspected that the issue might be amine blush, but the residue or surface texture cannot be washed off with water.

Do you have any idea what might be causing this recurring problem and how I could achieve a perfectly smooth, mirror-like finish? I would like to avoid having to sand and polish every individual block afterwards.

Thanks in advance for all help and replies .

Wouter

Hi All,

I am an artist and want to divide my designs across several 20 × 20 cm wooden blocks made from pine or spruce, finishing them with epoxy to add gloss and depth. I'm using the Mr. Boat Epoxy Ultra Clear 03.

However, I am experiencing a problem with the epoxy finish. I have attached several photographs showing the blocks and the issue that appears in the top layer during or after curing. The epoxy does not cure to a completely smooth finish. A type of texture remains in the surface, resembling greasy marks or stains. The surface is also not completely level and smooth.

I thought it was amine blush but i can't remove it with water & soap, it's not a layer that's on top but really in the resin itself.

The photographs were, of course, taken from very close up and directly against the light. At first glance, the effect is therefore less noticeable, but the finish is not good enough for me to sell the pieces.

The wooden blocks are prepared as follows:

• 20 × 20 cm spruce wood, coated with three layers of white water-based paint.
• I apply my designs using a technique known as waterslide decals. These consist of a very thin printable film. The decal is submerged in water, which releases it from the backing paper. It is then applied to the wood and adheres as it dries.
• I protect the waterslide decal with three coats of acrylic spray (SprayMax 1K). I allow the entire piece to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding to the next step.

My current epoxy process is as follows:

• I work in a 10 m² room inside my home, with the window slightly open for ventilation (photo of the room and setup included).
• During the most recent pour, the room temperature was 21°C (70F). The epoxy is also stored in this room. During the first 12 hours after pouring, the temperature gradually fluctuated between 20C and 23C (68F and 73F).
• The humidity was around 55% when i poured (11 AM) and was 67% the day after (9 AM).
• I clean the surface of the wooden blocks—the printed design with its acrylic topcoat—with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. I then allow it to dry for at least ten minutes.
• I measure the epoxy components by weight according to the specified mixing ratio and mix them for at least three minutes. I have also tried the double-cup method: after mixing, I transfer the epoxy into a second measuring cup before pouring it onto the blocks.
• I pour a small quantity of epoxy—approximately 80 ml per block—onto the centre of each block. I allow it to spread briefly and then distribute it by hand, while wearing a nitrile glove, all the way to the edges.
• I leave it for a few minutes and then use a small torch to remove the air bubbles, i am careful not to torch to long to not overheat the epoxy, it's a quick move. I've also used a bubble spray and in my last pour i had some blocks that's i've not touched at all (no torch or bubble spray). All blocks had the same result.
• During the most recent pour, I also covered some blocks with plastic A4 storage boxes because I suspected that airflow in the room might be affecting the top layer. I left a small opening at the bottom so that the blocks were not completely sealed off.
• After 20 minutes, I perform one final check for irregularities or air bubbles. I then cover the blocks again and leave them undisturbed.

I have now worked with epoxy products from several different brands. The Mr. Boat epoxy has given me the best result so far, but the finish is still not quite as smooth as I need it to be. I initially suspected that the issue might be amine blush, but the residue or surface texture cannot be washed off with water.

Do you have any idea what might be causing this recurring problem and how I could achieve a perfectly smooth, mirror-like finish? I would like to avoid having to sand and polish every individual block afterwards.

Thanks in advance for all help and replies .

Wouter

Hi All,

I am an artist and want to divide my designs across several 20 × 20 cm wooden blocks made from pine or spruce, finishing them with epoxy to add gloss and depth. I'm using the Mr. Boat Epoxy Ultra Clear 03.

However, I am experiencing a problem with the epoxy finish. I have attached several photographs showing the blocks and the issue that appears in the top layer during or after curing. The epoxy does not cure to a completely smooth finish. A type of texture remains in the surface, resembling greasy marks or stains. The surface is also not completely level and smooth.

I thought it was amine blush but i can't remove it with water & soap, it's not a layer that's on top but really in the resin itself.

The photographs were, of course, taken from very close up and directly against the light. At first glance, the effect is therefore less noticeable, but the finish is not good enough for me to sell the pieces.

The wooden blocks are prepared as follows:

• 20 × 20 cm spruce wood, coated with three layers of white water-based paint.
• I apply my designs using a technique known as waterslide decals. These consist of a very thin printable film. The decal is submerged in water, which releases it from the backing paper. It is then applied to the wood and adheres as it dries.
• I protect the waterslide decal with three coats of acrylic spray (SprayMax 1K). I allow the entire piece to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding to the next step.

My current epoxy process is as follows:

• I work in a 10 m² room inside my home, with the window slightly open for ventilation (photo of the room and setup included).
• During the most recent pour, the room temperature was 21°C (70F). The epoxy is also stored in this room. During the first 12 hours after pouring, the temperature gradually fluctuated between 20C and 23C (68F and 73F).
• The humidity was around 55% when i poured (11 AM) and was 67% the day after (9 AM).
• I clean the surface of the wooden blocks—the printed design with its acrylic topcoat—with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. I then allow it to dry for at least ten minutes.
• I measure the epoxy components by weight according to the specified mixing ratio and mix them for at least three minutes. I have also tried the double-cup method: after mixing, I transfer the epoxy into a second measuring cup before pouring it onto the blocks.
• I pour a small quantity of epoxy—approximately 80 ml per block—onto the centre of each block. I allow it to spread briefly and then distribute it by hand, while wearing a nitrile glove, all the way to the edges.
• I leave it for a few minutes and then use a small torch to remove the air bubbles, i am careful not to torch to long to not overheat the epoxy, it's a quick move. I've also used a bubble spray and in my last pour i had some blocks that's i've not touched at all (no torch or bubble spray). All blocks had the same result.
• During the most recent pour, I also covered some blocks with plastic A4 storage boxes because I suspected that airflow in the room might be affecting the top layer. I left a small opening at the bottom so that the blocks were not completely sealed off.
• After 20 minutes, I perform one final check for irregularities or air bubbles. I then cover the blocks again and leave them undisturbed.

I have now worked with epoxy products from several different brands. The Mr. Boat epoxy has given me the best result so far, but the finish is still not quite as smooth as I need it to be. I initially suspected that the issue might be amine blush, but the residue or surface texture cannot be washed off with water.

Do you have any idea what might be causing this recurring problem and how I could achieve a perfectly smooth, mirror-like finish? I would like to avoid having to sand and polish every individual block afterwards.

Thanks in advance for all help and replies .

Wouter

Hi all,

I'm fairly new to working with epoxy and aiming to use it for my art projects. However i'm having some trouble pouring a smooth layer of epoxy and hope there are some expert here that can point out my flaws. This is the material i'm working with:

- blocks of wood (spruce wood, 20 x 20 cm, 8 x 8 inch) 18mm thick / 0,5 inch thick
- the surface on top is leveled with a sanding machine
- 2 layers of white acrylic paint on top to seal the surface
- I apply my art on the surface with waterslide decals, a very thin film.
- I protect the decals with 2 layers of acrylic spray
- After that i pour the epoxy.

This is the process:

- the paint being dryed long enough (at least 48h) before applying the decal
- the decal is dryed at least 24h before applying the acrylic spray on it
- the spray is dryed at least 48h before pouring the epoxy
- i'm using 'premium art' epoxy from the brand 'ultraEpoxy'. I mix a 100:60 ratio with a precise scale. I'm using a mixing cup and mix the epoxy for several minutes.
- I pour the epoxy gently on the surface and smear it out with an expoy brush so it reaches all the edges.
- I use a torch (small one) to remove bubbles, i do this right after the pour (tile by tile).
- After i do this the surface is perfectly smooth and i let this to cure.
- The room is ventitaled with an open window, the pouring tables are level, the temperature is between 20 and 25 degrees Celcius (68 F to 77 F)

After 24h i check on the pour and i see all these dents in the surface. Also i see some subtle tearing in the epoxy itself.

What am i doing wrong and how can i fix these mistakes on the current pours?

Many thanks in advance!

Hi guys,

I'm doing an art project and are comtemplating using sublimation print for it. I've been doing some research but can't find the right information for my specific use case. Also i'm new to sublimation printing.

I have these white (regular) ceramic tiles. I want to make a tableau (one coherent design across all tiles) of about 50x70cm, 35 tiles. I have several questions/issues i need help with:

- how can i best prepare these tiles so they are suited for sublimation printing?

- the surface of the tiles is not flat, is it possible to still get a good print on them?

Thanks in advance!