The hunting mechanic has been fixed in the Vikings add-on for Settlers 2 10th Anniversary

I have just had a long (10+ hours) of game in Settlers 2 10th Anniversary through its Vikings add-on, and I want to report my findings regarding the hunting mechanics of the game: the original issue of the hunter becoming useless after the handful of nearby animals being hunt down has been fixed. Animals will never run out, if you have a sufficiently large forest next to the hunter shed. I even tested the size of the forest, and the larger the forest the higher the hunter's efficiency will be. Visually you won't see any animals in the forest, but the hunter will keep going out, go under a tree, and emerge with meet in its hands.

What I haven't tested yet is if this mechanic would work with planted forests too (through the forester) completely from the ground up, or in areas where there were no animals to begin with. It definitely works with small wooded areas where you use a forester to extend the size of the tree covered area.

I also just want to mention I have only had one play session so far on a user created map (I think it's called Beautiful World) where I actually noticed this mechanic, as normally I barely ever use the hunter, but I don't see why it wouldn't work the same for every other map in the game. Either way, if it turns out I was wrong, I will report back here.

The reason in the base game I barely ever used the hunters was that they became useless very quickly after the handful of animals were hunt down, but with this new mechanic it's now actually a very useful building: immediate food source without needing to spend a ton on infrastructure: for example for bread you need multiple really large and expensive buildings. For the hunter it's literally just the hunter building and a forest next to it.

The important part is you need to play the game through its Vikings add-on (there is an Englisht translated version out there), there in its menu you can play both the original campaign or the new Vikings campaign, and all the other fixes (like new military outposts having no gold coins sent to them by default) will be applied to the game too. Seriously this is the definitive way to play the game.

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 6 days ago
▲ 3 r/MSIClawHandhelds+1 crossposts

How do you test whether VRR is working on your device?

I have been reading posts on the problematic VRR (variable refresh rate) range of the MSI Claw devices for a long time now, about alleged fixes, how to extend the VRR range, and reading opinions from users who swear they have no problems with screen tearing even though they have never applied any fixes.

I am just really confused at this point. I personally was experiencing extremely bad screen tearing in certain games (notably in SWAT 4 and in Prey), and for me having VRR enabled wasn't enough to solve the issue, the only fix was to switch on V-sync as well. I tested these games at multiple framerates, sub 60 fps, 60 fps, 90 fps, 120 fps. With purely VRR on there was tearing at every framerate, more noticeable the lower the framerate was. V-sync solved the issue. I made a long post about this a while ago, feel free to have a look:

Finally figured out the solution to screen tearing! : r/MSIClaw

It's in the MSI Claw sub reddit, I can't comment there now as I was kicked out by the mod, who is apparently a complete bitch, but that's a whole different story:

A heads up about the state of the MSIClaw sub-Reddit : r/Handhelds

Anyway I have been using my Claw 8 AI+ happily ever since I have enabled v-sync, but after reading so many posts now about the dodgy VRR range on the Claw I started questioning whether the VRR is actually working properly on my device, or the screen tearing issue was purely solved for me by turning v-sync on, and maybe VRR is still semi-broken on my device?

I also want to mention that I used CRU to set a custom VRR range: I set the range from 28Hz to 120 Hz, and that's what is being displayed both in Windows Settings and in the Intel Graphics software (28Hz - 120Hz). But I am not sure if that is actually correct and the display VRR is indeed working in that range, or it just says it does (some people said CRU can't just override the range like that, it simply changes what is being displayed as VRR range, but that's not the reality).

I have been recommended to use the ufo vrr test website, but I simply don't understand how that works: when I run it there is a picture on the screen that is moving from right to left, and there is a dividing line horizontally at the middle. The simulated (?) framerate keeps changing from 120 fps down to 30 fps, then back up, then down again and so on. The upper half of the screen is nice and tear free (more choppy as the framerate gets lower as expected), but the lower half of the screen starts to experience tearing and that typical jitter that's typical when the picture starts tearing in games.

How am I supposed to read all this? I just don't understand how this test works: what should I see when the VRR is properly working in the full range, when only works let's say from 60Hz to 120 Hz, and when it doesn't work at all? There is no guidance on the webpage, and I haven't seen anyone actually explain how that test works, everyone just keeps saying "run the test". How am I supposed to read the results? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 1 month ago
▲ 6 r/MSIClawHandhelds+1 crossposts

Fully setup and ready to use original Doom games for Windows handhelds

I have gone through the process of fully setting up the original Doom games and its expansions for Windows handhelds in the gzdoom source port, making them work great on the built in controllers, and dialing in all the graphics and gameplay related features to suit these portable devices. A few people I know really struggled with this, and would've missed out on enjoying these games if I didn't help them, so I thought I will share my fully setup, ready to use file from my google drive.

I use this file on my MSI Claw 8 AI+ handheld, but it will work on any handheld, laptop and computer, as long as they run Windows 10 or 11. The one setting that might need changing is the game resolution: it's set to 1920x1200 as that's the screen resolution my device has, but if your system has a screen with a different resolution and/or aspect ratio, then you will need to change that to the appropriate resolution within the game menu.

First here is a picture about the controller mapping I have in the game (obviously if you will want to change anything you will be able to within the game):

https://imgur.com/a/D3pyRWN

I will copy-paste the content of the README file I made for this fully set up file here (but it will be also available within the .zip file):

"

Play Ultimate Doom (first game in the series), Doom 2 and the two Final Doom expansions by double clicking "gzdoom.exe" in this folder. But to make things easier you should rather right click on it, click on "create shortcut", and place this new shortcut on the desktop. Way quicker to play next time just by double clicking on this shortcut.

After launching gzdoom a window pops up, choose whichever game you want to play from the list, then in bottom left corner tap "Play Game". There is an other "Options" tab here, but everything should be set up correctly already. If you are playing on a handheld I highly recommend leaving the Rendering API on "OpenGL ES", as it has the best performance, and consumes the least amount of battery, while in these games it's only missing a few minor features (eye candy like Ambient Occlusion) compared to Vulkan and full OpenGL. And on my MSI Claw 8 AI+ the game runs at 116 fps at only 3 Watts TDP (it's a good practice to set a slightly lower max framerate for the game compared to your screen's refresh rate, to account for occasional frame overshoot, that could result in picture tearing). Both normal OpenGL and Vulkan roughly doubles the power consumption to 5-6 Watts on my handheld, even before I start adding any additional eye candy like Ambient Occlusion. OpenGL ES is just more efficient, and it still has the (in my opinion) important visual improvements like lights and texture options.

There are four additional expansions here too, that won't show up in the gzdoom opening window, they will be only playable by running the included batch files:

-Doom Sigil: run "Sigil.bat" (create a shortcut for it like previously discussed, and place it on the desktop for easy access)

-Doom Sigil 2: run "Sigil 2.bat"

-No rest for the living: run "No rest for the living.bat"

-Legacy of Rust: run "Legacy of Rust.bat"

Feel free to experiment with any of the settings in the game menu if you like, but I spent a considerable amount of time dialing every aspect of the graphics, gameplay and controls in the way I think is the most ideal for a handheld. If your handheld/game controller has worn/imprecise sticks and you experience stick drift, then you might need to increase the deadzone for the sticks in the game menu. Either way I think my setup will be a good starting point even for people who aim for slightly different visuals etc.

See the included .png picture file (GZdoom handheld controller mapping.png) for how I mapped the controller in the game. On my MSI Claw 8 AI+ handheld I have two programmable back buttons (M1 and M2), I have assigned the keyboard keys "K" and "L" to them, and in the game I have running and quick turn around assigned to them. These are not that important, as running is also available from the left trigger anyway, and quick turn around is really not needed (it's just a "nice to have").

The in game map I believe will come up in a usable/visually clear state by default, but if not, then you might want to experiment with clicking the following letters on your (on-screen)keyboard while the map is up: F (toggle follow), R (toggle rotate), G (toggle grid), T (toggle texture). The map can be panned around with the hat-switch/d-pad, and zoomed in and out with the triggers.

There are also a couple of files here that modify the default controller thumb stick response curves, as this is one of the only things the gzdoom engine severely lacks: you can't achieve precise aiming with controllers, while still having the speed for quick turn arounds with the basic sensitivity adjustments gzdoom provides for game controllers. The included files (Durazno.INI and xinput9_1_0.dll) remedy this by modifying the response curve for the sticks (mainly for the right thumb stick, as that's the one used for aiming/looking around). If you ever decide you want to further modify the response curve my provided Durazno.INI file has, first you will need to set the file back from "read only", BUT after you make your changes you need to set the file back to "read only", as before I did that for some reason every time I ran the game the value corresponding to stick linearity kept decreasing, one by one after each run. I think it's a bug, so just keep the file "read only", and everything will be fine.

"

One important thing is, you need to have the Doom + Doom 2 games from GoG or Steam to be allowed/able to use my file. If you already have them then you are good to go, if not then go get them, they are very cheap. Once you have my .zip file, extract it to somewhere (for example C:\Games\Doom_gzdoom), then open the README file in it, and follow the instructions. It's super simple even for a complete noob. Takes no time and you will be ready to play.

Here is the link to my .zip file:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bOIpNCuJ5IrvZLUrgg6T89ZkZPW2xmah/view?usp=sharing

Setting up everything from scratch can be very daunting and time consuming, so I think this file with the simple instructions I wrote will enable a lot of people to be able to enjoy these games in a state that's more fine tuned to modern Windows handhelds, or just simply playing them with a controller.

u/zoltan_87 — 2 months ago
▲ 3 r/MSIClawHandhelds+1 crossposts

Is there a solution to losing DirectInput game controller after prolonged sleep on Windows?

I have been struggling with this issue ever since I bought my MSI Claw 8 AI+ handheld (it runs Windows 11, which is important in this case): I mainly play older games, that rely on the Windows DirectInput API to handle game controllers. The built in controllers on Windows handhelds can work both in XInput mode (the API that modern games use) and in DirectInput mode (on my MSI Claw the controller identifies like an old Xbox 360 controller in device manager).

If I play a modern game, it just picks up the controller as an Xinput controller, and everything works flawlessly. If I play an older game, that uses DirectInput, then the handheld's controller gets picked up as a DirectInput controller, and even in this scenario initially everything works fine. The problem arises after device sleep. In the case of DirectInput there is a major issue with device re-enumeration after sleep: when I put the device to sleep after longer periods of time (let's say being in sleep mode for an hour or more) when I wake up the device to carry on playing, the controller is usually lost, as for some reason it gets picked up as a different device ID. In fact you can even check Windows Device Manager, for some reason there are multiple entries for Xbox 360 controller, and after sleep the built in controller gets juggled around (seemingly randomly) and gets assigned to one of these controller IDs. And since the game that is being played has been set up with one particular controller/device ID, it simply loses the controller. As a side note I also want to mention if I use sleep for only a few minutes, then interestingly I don't experience this problem. But every time the handheld is in sleep for a longer time, the lost controller problem happens.

I want to make it clear, this is not a device specific problem, this is a Windows problem, more specifically a DirectInput device ID/re-enumeration problem that is present on all Windows handhelds/computers, basically an issue just in general using game controllers on Windows.

I have tried to use Hidhide, but it didn't work, and in fact I can't see how it could work for this specific issue: the controller still gets assigned to a new device ID after sleep, all Hidhide can do is make certain devices/device IDs invisible to applications. What I want to achieve is to stop Windows from re-enumerating/assigning the game controller to a different device ID. I simply don't understand why it keeps doing that. When it comes to XInput there are no issues like this, everything works there as expected, and the controller never gets lost.

I wish this issue was talked about more, but it seems like almost everybody either uses Steam OS, or the people why use Windows on their handhelds only play more recent games (that use XInput), so none of them encounter the described situation.

Is there simply no solution to this? Is playing older games on a Windows handheld on the go, where you put the device to sleep every now and then, and carry on playing later, is simply not possible in a reliable fashion, without randomly losing the controller every now and then? The Dosbox emulator is a good example: there are multiple old DOS games I would enjoy playing on the go, but I simply cannot, as I constantly lose controller after device wake up in Dosbox Staging.

If anyone has any ideas/suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it. The only semi-fix I have been able to come up so far is to use a utility called Xidi (it's on Github), that translates Xinput to DirectInput. When this works it's reliable, but I haven't been able to make it work with every game (like in the mentioned Dosbox Staging emulator).

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 2 months ago

I have found the solution for the unnecessarily large default controller deadzone in Mechwarrior 5 Mercenaries

I posted about this problem a while ago, finally I have found the perfect solution. I am not going to write everything down here again, here is a link for the edited post, I have updated it with a step-by-step guide to the solution, it's right at the beginning of the post:

Controller/gamepad support has major issues in MW5 Mercenaries : r/Mechwarrior5

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 3 months ago

Feature request for a simple but essential setting in Intel Graphics Software

I am slowly going mad trying to achieve a very simple thing, which apparently is simply impossible with both the Intel Graphics software or any other third party app: I want to apply custom Saturation, Brightness and Contrast values to the built in screen on my MSI Claw 8 AI+ handheld when I launch and play certain games, and have those values revert back to the default values when I quit the games, and make all this happen automatically. The reason is that many games (for example Mechwarrior 5 Mercenaries, GTR 2, Grand Prix 4, gzdoom source port games) have really bad default contrast, brightness etc values, and they just look bad. But it's game specific, some games are perfect, others desperately need adjustments.

Here is the thing: all these screen values can be already manually adjusted in the Intel Graphics Software, but only as a global setting. I don't understand why these adjustments are not exposed to the already available game profiles in the same application. I can set custom fps limits, vsync and a few other things for individual games in those game profiles, and once set those settings get applied automatically when I launch a game that has a profile assigned to it, and it works amazingly well. But this software needs to have the capacity to have the mentioned screen values as well in these game profiles.

So I am wondering what would be the best way for me to request this feature from Intel? I would imagine this should be a fairly straightforward addition to the software, as all this functionality is already there, they just haven't been integrated into the game profile section of the app.

As of now I have a text file with all the different screen values for each game I need to adjust, and I have to mess around with all those sliders in the Intel Software every time before I can play, AND after I have played as well, to change those values back to the normal position, as for web browsing those settings are the best for my eyes. It's a nightmare.

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 3 months ago

Is there a way to assign custom contrast settings to different games/applications?

I am having difficulty trying to achieve the following: I have a few games (namely Mechwarrior 5 Mercenaries and The Forest) that have really bad contrast settings by default, and unfortunately there is no way to adjust these settings in game. When I go into the Intel Graphics Software I can actually dial in the desired contrast values, and after this the games look as they should, but I can't seem to find a way to assign these custom settings to the game profiles. In the mentioned Intel Software in the game profiles I can adjust custom fps profiles and a few more things, but there is no setting there for contrast or any other screen related stuff. So basically contrast can only be set globally there, and have to be done manually.

This is really annoying and very limiting. Is there a way with maybe a batch file or something else that I could firstly automate the contrast settings when launching the games, and I could set different contrast values to different games? I would be even ok with using an additional application to achieve this. It's way too much headache to keep track of these values for each game in my head, having to adjust contrast every time I play a game, then after I played change it back. I want to automate all this. Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 3 months ago

Controller/gamepad support has major issues in MW5 Mercenaries

I have just recently started playing Mechwarrior 5 Mercenaries on my MSI Claw 8 AI+ handheld. There is a lot I like about the game, performance is unfortunately not great (I suppose I shouldn't expect miracles from a heavily TDP limited CPU and GPU combo in a handheld), my major issue though is with how the game handles gamepads.

The built-in controller on the Claw corresponds to an Xbox controller, the layout is the same, and that's how it's being reported to the system. All the following issues I am about to mention are specific to this game, the controller works flawlessly in other games.

  1. The first and biggest issue is the default deadzone for the thumbstick (specifically for the stick that is used for aiming/looking around) is way too high, and cannot be adjusted. This makes aiming extremely difficult an imprecise. I also can't see a way to adjust acceleration curve for the sticks, only a basic sensitivity slider.

  2. The other issue is how the move forward/throttle and backward is being detected (by default that is on the left thumbstick y axis): it's not being handled in an analog way, where depending on how far you push the stick it would apply the corresponding amount of acceleration/speed for walking. For example when I push the stick up just a bit, the mech should start moving forward at a slow speed, and the more I push the stick upwards the higher the speed by which the mech is walking should be. Instead of this we have a fully digital way of handling the input for walking: it's either off, or on walking at full speed. I don't understand why it behaves this way, especially when gradual walking speed levels are already in the game, from the keyboard you can choose any speed you want from 0% to 100% by pushing the number keys, giving you a 10% granularity. Also steering the mech left and right with the left thumbstick's x axis is fully proportional/analog and works great.

Both of these issues are really deal breakers for me (but mainly the deadzone problem for aiming), but even after googling around I haven't been able to come up with a solution. Is there even a solution, possibly some mods or something? I am seriously thinking about using an application called AntimicroX to map the mouse to the right stick, then the number keys to the left stick's y axis. Then somehow make the game work with a mixture of gamepad inputs and the translated inputs for the mouse and keyboard. But it sounds like a massive headache and a huge amount of work just to make the game (hopefully) work as it should in the first place. If this is even doable.

This game was released years ago, so I am amazed these issues haven't really been talked about much (only saw a post for the deadzone issue from years ago, and there wasn't any conclusive solution mentioned there either) and such fatal flaws still exist in this otherwise amazing game.

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 3 months ago

A heads up about the state of the MSIClaw sub-Reddit

I have been contemplating whether I should even make this post, but frankly I think people need to be aware of what's going on in the MSIClaw sub-Reddit, just being aware could potentially save a lot of valuable posts getting disappeared and lost forever.

About a week ago I wrote a pretty lengthy post about my experience regarding trying to find a replacement battery for my MSI Claw 8 AI+ A2VM handheld. It would have been an informative post, as throughout the last year the issue of getting replacement batteries for these devices has come up multiple times, and no conclusive solution has ever been reached. Anyway I wrote my post, posted it, but it never actually got displayed in the MSIClaw sub thanks to the over aggressive spam filtering. I made a post there voicing my frustration with the situation, and the mod promptly banned me (and did the same to multiple other members as well). The way he handled this whole situation is probably the most unprofessional, childish power trip I have ever experienced or even seen in my life.

He didn't give one actual reply, he just had a template sentence (that from the look of it was probably AI generated) that he spammed out to everyone in that thread that voiced their opinion (which surprise surprise, were very similar to my experience), and he serial banned everyone that had this frustration with the trigger happy spam filtering in the sub.

He has never given an explanation, or even acknowledgement of the issue. Absolutely nothing. This is a mod by the way who since I have been a member of that sub (March 2025) has never participated in any conversation there, or did anything ever in the sub as far as I could see, and I frequented that place a lot. That's why a big part of the conversation in my complaint thread was about everyone wondering where the mods were, or if they even existed. Then a day later this one (?) guy turns up from nowhere, nukes my thread (it's deleted now) and serial bans everyone who was even remotely unhappy with the situation. And does all this without any further information, just a generic sentence about "not spreading misinformation and no harassment" sent to everyone. Like what the actual hell? I know mods are not paid, so we should appreciate they do this for free, but man, if someone is so clearly not up to the task, then probably they should have never applied for the position, or if life has changed, they don't have time to properly moderate or whatever else might be going on in their life, then just kindly announce their leaving, there are other people, MUCH better suited people, who will step up and do the job.

Anyway I wanted to let you guys know about this, not just to be aware that a man-child is running that sub, but also be warned, if you make a long and informative post, there is a strong possibility it will never get displayed, as it will trigger the spam filter. There were multiple guys in that thread describing the same thing happening to them: one guy made a post comparing the XAX and Claw, his post never got through. An other guy made a post that contained prices, it never got through. My post described how much a replacement battery straight from MSI costs, it never got through. And so on. Honestly the MSIClaw sub is probably like a cemetery for good, informative posts.

By the way if you still post there, your post gets flagged, and you message the mod in the hope he would just manually let your post through after reading it, don't get your hopes up: he never EVER replies to anyone reaching out to him with any sort of issue, that being threads getting lost or anything else. Seriously this serial banning has been the only sign of life he has given there through the last year. Also with a guy like that running the sub, there is no guarantee that posts that actually get through and get displayed will stay up, as he might just decide to terminate your thread out of the blue if he gets up the wrong side of the bed one morning.

I will try to include a screenshot of the thread here, that led me to be banned from that sub, and many others as mentioned earlier. Unfortunately many very informative posts are not visible anymore, not even on the screenshot, but at least my original (very mild) complain and some of the comments will be still there. And you can also see the laughable "response" the mod kept spamming there to everyone.

Here is an imgur link for the screenshot: https://imgur.com/a/qiC0diz

Also want to say that because of all what has happened there is now a new, more welcoming, moderated and functional MSI Claw related sub as well, so if interested search around and feel free to join (I don't know if mentioning the name of the new sub might be against some sort of policy here, so I will just leave it like this, should be easy enough to find).

u/zoltan_87 — 3 months ago
▲ 10 r/MSIClaw

This sub is unusable, where are the moderators?

I have to say this out loud now, as things are at the point where basic communication and usability of this sub-Reddit is just completely broken. I don't know who is in charge here, and who set the trigger words up for the sub, but basically anyone who wants to post here needs to walk on eggshells regarding what words they are using, as even the most mundane things can set off the automatic flagging system, and the whole post or even thread just gets removed.

I have seen now like a hundred posts removed, or people re-commenting with different phrasing, as their comments triggered the spam filter. It's like you need to do quantum calculations in your head every time you try to say something meaningful, and go about writing your actual thoughts in a roundabout, time wasting, ambiguous way to somehow get past the flagging bots. It's absolutely ridiculous.

I made a post a couple of days ago describing my experience with a faulty battery in my Claw, the exchange I had with MSI support, and the state of third party batteries for these devices online. The whole post immediately got flagged stating I didn't abide by the rules of the sub, probably because I wrote down how much a replacement battery costs straight from MSI. The post still is on hold stating it's waiting for moderator review. I even tried to message the mods, no response. Are there actually any mods on this sub that are active, or they just set up the flagging system when the Claw sub was created, then just left for good? I certainly has never seen a mod here say or post anything ever. It's infuriating. Makes me often just not even bother to respond or write anything, as what's the point? Chances are my post will never get through. It feels like a waste of time.

I was thinking about actually slightly changing my post, and try to re-post it, but I am afraid to do even that, as a few years ago my whole account was terminated, as I cross posted something to two different subs. It was a well written guide how to make older racing games that use DirectInput controller management reliably work on these modern handhelds. I posted it here and in a sim racing sub too, thinking more people would benefit from my findings that way. Reddit just nuked my whole account stating I was spamming. Of course no reply ever received for my appeal that time either. This whole site just f*cking s*cks ass.

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 4 months ago
▲ 11 r/MSIClaw

Poll for how much performance uplift you expect from the Claw 8 EX

So I wanted to make this as a poll where people could vote, but the geniuses running Reddit decided that you need to install the app for being able to create poll posts. Just an other reason why I hate this site and will never install anything from them.

Anyway back to the topic, as the Claw 8 EX release is getting closer I am wondering how much of a performance uplift do you guys expect from this refresh on average, specifically in the medium power envelope, so let's say at 17 Watts TDP (compared to the same 17 Watts on the Claw 8 Ai+)? To make it simpler let's have three choices:

5-25% performance gain

25-50% performance gain

50-80% performance gain

Obviously different games will have different results, so think this as an average value. I am going with 5-25%. What do you guys think?

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 5 months ago

Fix for squeaky triggers on the Claw

So I am doing some troubleshooting on my Claw 8 Ai+ (BSOD crashes, it's been like that since I got the machine in last March, but it's getting worse, from the original one crash every 3 weeks frequency being down to a crash every few days now), and for that I had to disassemble the machine. And I figured this was the perfect time to take a look at the triggers, as they have developed an annoying, very faint squeaky noise the last few months. Turns out it's an easy fix, they just need some lubricant at the part where there is a tiny metal spring.

I am going to try to attach some pictures about the disassembled trigger, with a red circle about the part that needs lubrication. Now here is a warning: these parts and screws are EXTREMELY tiny and fragile, so if you don't have the hand dexterity, eyesight, suitable tiny screwdrivers (the two screws going into the trigger assembly are smaller than the Philips screws in the housing, don't try to to force the larger head in as you will damage them) or just lack the patience, then don't try to do this. I had no issue fixing mine, but I know how clumsy the average person is, so you have been warned. You will want to use a very thin/low viscosity oil, and only an incredibly tiny amount, as otherwise it will get everywhere, and just make a mess, possibly cause more trouble. I applied a tiny, and I mean TINY amount of oil to the end of a plastic toothpick, then with the toothpick I was able to reach the parts that needed lubrication. I engaged the triggers a couple of times, and voila, the noise is completely gone, as good as new.

Also a warning about some small grey rubber gromets that sit just below the menu, start, quick settings and Claw buttons: there is one under each of these buttons, and they can fall out easily. One of them fell out for me without noticing it, then after putting everything together I noticed the Claw button (that brings up the MSI Center M app) wasn't working, and it had a very hollow feel when I tried to click that button. So just be mindful of them before putting everything back together.

Here is the link for the pictures. I have a long, red rubber headed KontrolFreek thumb stick extender installed on the thumb stick, I just mention this so you won't get confused looking at the picture.

https://imgur.com/a/RdUlehy

u/zoltan_87 — 5 months ago

Is this dungeon bugged?

So I am in a dungeon where there are multiple portals inside it, and most of the rooms/areas are only reachable through these portals, as there is no physical connection like corridors between them. I ended up in an area that's completely cut of from the rest of the dungeon, and there is one portal door that I assume should take me to an other area. But it doesn't work, I simply can't enter it. I tried it from both sides, jumping into it, squatting down, running, everything. There is simply no way to enter it. So I am completely stuck in this area (basically it's three rooms connected to each other), can't leave or do anything else. Funny thing is I have been to this dungeon before, and I am quite sure I managed to go through this exact portal with no issues. So I don't know what the problem is now. Has anyone ever encountered such a game breaking bug?

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 5 months ago

So after I have been struggling with insane lag spikes as I move across the map and new terrain tiles are being loaded I settled with draw distance set to 1 (max would be 4 in game settings), as this is the only setting where the lag is tolerable. It's still somewhat bad when I am approaching a large city and that's being loaded/drawn. I have a modern system, an MSI Claw 8 Ai+ handheld with core ultra 7 cpu (4 performance and 4 efficiency cores) and Arc 140V gpu, so I am puzzled how this game can have such performance issues. Sure I have some mods that improve textures, but nothing crazy. I don't have 3d trees, grass mod, 3d characters or terrain mods that would tax the system, and justify the performance issues. I have cpu turbo boost disabled (so the max clock speed is 2.2 GHz) as I want to have a tolerable battery life, but again, I don't see why the game is so badly optimized.

Is this just how the game works for everyone, or there is something wrong on my end, and the game should stay responsive all the time?

reddit.com
u/zoltan_87 — 6 months ago