I'm looking to get a film camera to shoot around and because 16mm is cheaper than super 8 (in bulk and for the same ammount of time)
I've seen some ads of untested cameras for much less than tested and working. I'm wondering wether if i encountered faculty mechanisms, if i chose the printing material carefully, i could make spare parts, since most of the mechanism is mechanical
So, I sent in my camera to Abdul in NY and heard nothing back for over a month. So long that, I literally had to go and send him an email from a different email account, pretending to be a different person with a Bolex issue. When he responded to that email a day after sending it (and still not responding to my first emails asking for updates) I confronted him asking where my camera was and why he was dodging my emails. No reasons were given for absence or lack of response, just that he would get back to me. Told me I needed to replace my viewfinder in addition to the CLA (which is why I sent it in the first place). When I finally got my camera back into my hands (over 2 months later) Something was different. I had a hole in the back of my bolex where a tripod or other screw accessory might mount, where as this one I got back did not, and the serial number on the body is different than the one on the door. I email AGAIN, thinking he sent me someone else's camera on accident. NOPE.
"Your camera body was in bad shap, was a hole and leak light, I gave you entire working one better than yours with the same value, because to fix yours will cost you more and take me more time. Is better I replace it."
He replaced my ENTIRE CAMERA without consulting me. I feel like I was swindled, but I guess I have a working Bolex... Should I confront him about it?
Got these log files for some 500T I shot, I’m used to the blue tint from tungsten (although I thought my filters I used would do a good job of making it orange) but I don’t recall ever seeing the black edges blue like that. Was my film cooked somehow? Shot with my ARRI 16BL.
Hello, I'm looking for options on purchasing a 16mm projector that gives the best bang for your buck. I know next to nothing about the brands of projectors, that's why I'm asking for help here! ETA: Budget is up to $800 USD.
Heya everyone,
Wanted to share a look at the madness behind shooting the video for Grayson Gilmour’s "Minus Times Infinity". I built a massive, physical animatronic dragon puppet (we named him Boris) and we hauled him out into dense, remote Australian forest alongside a Soviet-era Kinor 16mm camera.
Shooting a massive, heavy puppet in the actual elements under a thick forest canopy on Eastman Kodak 100D was an absolute trip ha. The Kinor's is heavy as hell but pretty robust … I know cause I dropped the thing at least once.
See the process / result here
The crunchy grain of the 100D captured the mud, the scales, and the forest texture beautifully.
Check out the clip / breakdown
Would love to hear from anyone else who still shoots practical puppets or physical builds on 16mm. How did you deal with the logistic? Why do we make everything so hard for ourselves lol.
Hi everyone! I recently got a K-3 and took it to shoot and ended up with 2 rolls of film spaghetti (as seen in this picture)…. My friend had an old Bolex H-16 Non-Reflex sitting around and I cleaned it up and put the rest of the messed up roll into the camera along with the metal take up spool. It ran great but I opened the camera and it had film spaghetti again…I know I’m loading these cameras correctly so I’m stumped on what could be going wrong. Could it be something with the spools? I know the plastic Kodak spools give people trouble but I’m not sure where I can get film with the metal spools. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
As the question says, the balance of evidence on whether Bolex RX lenses "compensate" for the viewfinder's/prism's light loss seems to be... ambiguous.
I've seen people swearing blind for both cases, all of them citing various papers and studies and manuals. Nobody seems to be in firm agreement.
Long question short: should I be metering 1/80 – thus compensating for light loss – or metering at 1/65? And does it really even matter, what with forgiving modern film stocks?
I'm about to shoot my first test reel (Kodak vision3 250D) and have spent a few hours tangling myself in knots about how I should be metering.
I have a Bolex H16 Rex 1, a 1961 model, if that helps.
Hello everyone,I might be stupid but I can't close the bolex lid properly.
Today I accidentally drop my lid.
I know bolex is a sturdy machine but I just can't close it.
I'm pretty frustrated because of this so any response I'm really appreciated.
Posted by local seller who says the camera works fine but I noticed the missing spring lever and wondered how important is it, what else should I test?
Hello.
I want to try direct animation on 16mm leader, but I'm a bit confused about how leader appears when scanned.
If I animate onto clear leader, will the scanned image have a white background, or is white leader the better option if I specifically want a white background?
Thank you.
No clue on how it has been stored, was given this for free, was figuring I could get some usable footage from it
Hey everyone, I’m in the Orlando area and planning a Super 16 video shoot. I’m trying to find the best options for processing and scanning.
Looking for:
If you’ve shot Super 16 recently, I’d love to hear:
Thanks for any insight.
Hi,
Looking to buy my first 16mm camera. I don't intend for this to be something I'm going to shoot big projects on or anything - I'm better off just renting for that. This is more for experimentation, fun, and experience shooting film (cinema, anyway, I have a lot of experience with stills film).
If the camera is MOS, that's totally fine.
My ideal features, if they are even possible (which I'm sure varies from model to model).
Some of those (e.g. battery for motor) are more important than others (e.g., 200/400 ft mag).
Options I'm considering. Please weigh in on your opinions and also which of these may not fit those ideal qualifications very well.
I know the R16 can use a battery, and has 200 ft mags available. The CP-16 can actually record sound, it's surprisingly quiet. The Bolex is the cheapest of the bunch and probably has the most accessories/parts available, but I'm not sure if it would be better to go with a newer model.
Thanks!!
Hey everyone — I normally wouldn’t post something like this, but I’m trying to raise money for processing and scanning for a 16mm experimental Lynch inspired short. .
I’m a filmmaker based in Los Angeles working this project and I’ve hit a point where I could really use help. The funds would go toward processing and scanning. This project/situation matters to me because I've actually been in fron of the camera most of my life. Now I wanna see the magic from a different vantage point. .
Even sharing this helps a lot. Thanks for reading.
Best,
Ryan Lambert
On today’s episode of Definitely Unemployed and Probably Autistic: my Bolex camera has an awkward little spindle of a base so it doesn’t sit nice on a table and also spins on a tripod. So I made a custom baseplate for it, including dual 1/4-20 mounting holes for a quick release plate, multiple 1/4-20 mounting points, and a single 5/8 rod holder with thumb screw to lock it in place.
The original body is from sixteenmillimeter.com, but I changed it pretty heavily to fit my needs. All the added mounting inlays were me too. Thought it turned out pretty nice.
Hi there,
I've only shot one roll of film before, which was 200T, interior with tungsten lighting. I was just curious if anyone has experience with shooting 500T uncorrected in camera (no 85 filter) and how you found it, or if you have any examples of how it came out? Looking to do it for an upcoming project, instead of losing 2/3 a stop, or going to 250D. Thanks guys.
I'm also not pulling or pushing the film.
A short documentary exploring mental health through the eyes of ordinary people navigating real-life struggles. Filmed and directed by Will Craig, the documentary gives a voice to those whose stories rarely get told, capturing raw and honest human experiences without actors or scripts.
Please let me know what you think of the documentary. Watch on a big TV for the best viewing experience. Thank you for your time.
hi guys, I was hoping someone could help me with my Krasnogorsk-3, I paid around $950 USD for it, they told me it was a good quality one, ive never shot 16mm before so probably made some mistakes (didn't use a light meter). would appreciate any help for future.
Ok, so I was recently helping an older friend move to a place where she can't store much of her stuff, so she gave me these antiques and said I would be free to sell them. I know nothing about this stuff, I googled their worth and they seem to be very valuable. I was debating just posting these on Ebay but I wanted to come to a friendly community that knows more about it to get some advice whether or not that is a good idea. It all seems to be in excellent condition except for the Kodatoy which was the only one without a carrying case, but I haven't even removed any of it from the cases because I am afraid of damaging them.
My Haul:
Eastman Kodak Kodatoy 16mm slowburn film projector,
Bell & Howell Filmo 70 motion picture camera (w/ carrying case,)
Eastman Kodak Kodascope Model B projector (w/ carrying case,)
Bell & Howell Filmosound Model 138 projector (w/ carrying case.)
Any information would be extremely helpful! Thank you.
There is a Bolex H16 with Pan Cinor 85-2 (the f/2 17mm-85mm version) with the dogleg viewfinder for sale near me for a very good price BUT I have no practical experience with these. I have been searching and trying to find any real practical real world examples of people using them (and not just somebody needing to know how to adjust them etc).
For all practical purposes it seems like fairly similar to using a H16 reflex with the same sort of imperfect slight loss of light. The 6' minimum focus distance seems to be its only real downside (from a lens perspective). As usual searching gets the standard mix of forum posts that go between 'that lens is crap' and 'I used that lens for years in news and documentary work and it was great'.
So I would LOVE to learn about any actual real world experience any of you have with this lens and its viewfinder.
Specifically how easy is it to focus using and just ACTUAL usage.
I know the Reflex is obviously the better choice but this is working, near me, and a great price.