The Albania Itinerary Iâd Recommend
I spent nearly three weeks backpacking through Albania in May, travelling entirely by bus before continuing into Montenegro.
Iâll be honestâŠ
Albania didnât become my favourite country in the Balkans.
There were moments where I struggled to connect with it, and I actually enjoyed Montenegro more overall. But looking back, Iâm incredibly glad I visited.
Some of my favourite memories werenât necessarily the famous attractions. They were conversations in hostel gardens, wandering UNESCO old towns, swimming in crystal-clear water and meeting some of the kindest hostel owners Iâve come across while travelling.
If I were doing the trip again, this is exactly how Iâd do it.
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Overall Thoughts
As a solo female traveller, I generally felt safe throughout Albania. I walked around during the day and in the evenings without any major concerns.
People were welcoming, food was affordable and transport was much easier than I expected.
One thing I didnât expect was just how different each destination felt. Tirana, Berat, HimarĂ« and ShkodĂ«r all had completely different personalities.
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Should You Rent a Car?
If your budget allows itâŠ
Yes.
This is probably the one thing Iâd do differently.
I travelled entirely by bus and while Albaniaâs bus network is surprisingly good, having a car would have made the Riviera so much more enjoyable.
Youâll be able to stop at beautiful little villages like:
* Dhërmi
* Vuno
* Qeparo
* Borsh
instead of simply driving past them.
If youâre travelling solo, Iâd even recommend finding people at your hostel to split a rental car for a few days.
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Buses
Despite what youâll read online, buses in Albania are actually quite straightforward.
The schedules just arenât published very well.
Every hostel I stayed at knew exactly:
* where buses departed from
* what time they left
* roughly how much they cost
Most of the time I simply asked reception the night before and never had any issues.
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Food & Budget
One thing I loved about Albania was how affordable it was.
Most local meals cost between âŹ2-4, so I rarely cooked.
Coffee was usually around âŹ1-2.
The only places where I noticed prices increase were:
* Himarë
* Sarandë
which makes sense considering theyâre Albaniaâs biggest beach destinations.
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Cash
Carry cash.
Many hostels still prefer cash payments and smaller restaurants occasionally do too.
Iâd recommend withdrawing larger amounts rather than making lots of small ATM withdrawals.
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Tirana âââââ
This will probably be my most unpopular opinion.
Personally⊠Tirana just didnât click for me.
I know plenty of travellers who absolutely loved it, so take this with a grain of salt.
I found it busy and chaotic, and it never really captivated me the way some of Albaniaâs smaller towns did.
That saidâŠ
A lot of peopleâs experience seems to depend on where they stay.
Hostel Recommendations
If youâre travelling solo, Iâd recommend:
* Tripân Hostel
* Blue Door Hostel
* Bearded Dad Hostel
All three have great reputations for being social and organising activities.
Many backpackers I met ended up extending their stay simply because they loved the hostel atmosphere.
Things to do
* Skanderbeg Square
* BunkâArt
* Blloku
* Dajti Cable Car
Iâd personally spend 2-3 days maximum.
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Berat âââââ
Berat was where Albania really started to grow on me.
Known as the City of a Thousand Windows, itâs one of Albaniaâs UNESCO World Heritage sites and is incredibly photogenic.
Unlike Tirana, Berat has a much slower pace.
Itâs the kind of place where the best afternoons are spent wandering narrow streets before sitting down for a coffee overlooking the river.
Stay
Berat Backpackers Hostel
A lovely backpacker hostel with a beautiful garden and relaxed communal atmosphere.
It wasnât the most social hostel of my trip, but it was incredibly easy to meet people naturally.
Things to do
* Berat Castle
* Mangalem Quarter
* Gorica Bridge
* Onufri Museum
* Sunset viewpoints
Donât rush Berat.
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GjirokastĂ«r âââââ
This ended up being one of my favourite places in Albania.
The stone streets, mountain backdrop and Ottoman architecture make it unlike anywhere else in the country.
The town itself only needs around 1-2 days, butâŠ
I actually stayed 3 nights because I loved my hostel so much.
Stay
Stone City Hostel
Quite possibly my favourite hostel in Albania.
The owner and volunteers created such a warm, welcoming atmosphere that I genuinely didnât want to leave.
If youâre travelling solo, Iâd highly recommend staying here.
Things to do
* Gjirokastër Castle
* Old Bazaar
* Skenduli House
* Zekate House
* Sunset over the rooftops
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Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)
This may be controversialâŠ
I actually wouldnât prioritise it.
Yes, itâs beautiful.
But itâs also:
* crowded
* touristy
* heavily regulated
You can no longer swim there, which took away a lot of its appeal for me.
Personally, Iâd save my nature day for Theth and the Blue Eye in northern Albania, which felt far more immersive.
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Optional: Përmet
I didnât visit PĂ«rmet myself, but almost everyone I met who did absolutely loved it.
Itâs known for:
* natural hot springs
* rafting
* excellent local food
* a quieter atmosphere than the Riviera
If you have an extra couple of days, Iâd definitely consider adding it.
SarandĂ« âââââ
SarandĂ« is probably Albaniaâs most famous beach destination.
PersonallyâŠ
It wasnât my favourite.
I can completely understand why people enjoy it. The water is stunning, there are endless restaurants along the promenade and it has a fun holiday atmosphere.
But compared to Himarë, I found it far more commercialised. It reminded me a little of Ibiza or a typical Mediterranean resort town.
I visited in May and even then it was busy. I can only imagine how crowded it gets during July and August.
Most of the beaches in town are occupied by paid sunbeds, although we did find a small public section near Bora Bora Beach Bar.
Things to do
* Walk the promenade
* Swim if you can find a public section
* Visit Lekursi Castle (personally I found it underwhelming as itâs now largely a restaurant with viewpoints)
If youâre choosing between SarandĂ« and HimarĂ«âŠ
Iâd choose HimarĂ« every time.
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HimarĂ« âââââ
This was easily my favourite stretch of coastline in Albania.
If youâre travelling for beaches, crystal-clear water and a more relaxed atmosphereâŠ
Spend your time here.
Some of the most beautiful beaches I visited were:
* Filikuri Beach â
* Aquarium Beach â
* Livadhi Beach
The water is absolutely stunning.
Stay
I stayed at Natural Hostel.
The owner was genuinely lovely and the hostel had a nice communal atmosphere.
Unfortunately, the facilities just werenât for me. The bathrooms felt quite basic, shower pressure was weak and overall comfort wasnât quite what I was looking for.
If I visited again, Iâd stay at:
* Himara Downtown Hostel
* Oasis Hostel
* Tripân Hostel (if youâre after a younger, more social crowd)
Things to do
* Beach hop
* Explore Himarë Old Town
* Sunset by the waterfront
* Rent a kayak or paddleboard
* Drive to nearby villages if you have a car
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VlorĂ« âââââ
After several days on the coast, I decided to stay in VlorĂ«âs city centre rather than near the beach.
Iâm really glad I did.
It gave me a completely different side of Albania to experience and was the perfect place to slow down for a couple of days.
Stay
Queen V Hostel
One of my favourite hostel stays in Albania.
The hostel is part of Nicoâs family home and genuinely feels like a home away from home.
Spotlessly clean, comfortable and incredibly welcoming. I actually extended my stay because I enjoyed it so much.
Things to do
* Wander the Old Town
* Visit Independence Square
* Cycle around the city
* Walk the waterfront
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ShkodĂ«r âââââ
Probably the biggest surprise of my trip.
I expected Shkodër to simply be the gateway to Theth.
InsteadâŠ
It became one of my favourite cities in Albania.
Beautiful pedestrian streets, colourful Italian-style buildings and a much more relaxed atmosphere than Tirana.
Walking Tour
Book a GuruWalk.
Honestly one of the best walking tours Iâve done while travelling.
Learning about northern Albaniaâs history gave me a completely different appreciation for the city.
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Komani Lake & Shala River
Absolutely worth it.
I booked through GetYourGuide because I wanted a guide explaining the history and geography throughout the journey.
The real highlight is the boat ride through Komani Lake.
Shala River itself has become fairly developed for tourism, but itâs still an incredibly scenic day out and we managed to find a quiet spot to relax and dip our feet into the freezing water.
If youâre in ShkodĂ«râŠ
Iâd definitely recommend doing this tour.
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Theth & Valbona
If you enjoy hiking, this is Albaniaâs most iconic adventure.
Most people organise everything directly through their hostel.
Iâd recommend doing the same as youâll travel with other backpackers rather than random tour groups.
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Hostel Recommendations
Wanderers Hostel
Probably the most social hostel in ShkodĂ«r. Great younger crowd, communal dinners (included!) and easy to meet people. The only downside is that the hostel is spread across multiple buildings, so where youâre allocated can affect your experience.
Shkodra Hostel & Day Tours
This is where I stayed.
Modern, comfortable, fantastic café downstairs and excellent facilities. A great choice if you want comfort while still having a social atmosphere.
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My Favourite Hostels
đĄ Best Overall: Stone City Hostel (GjirokastĂ«r)
đ€ Most Social: Wanderers Hostel (ShkodĂ«r)
đż Most Relaxing: Queen V Hostel (VlorĂ«)
đž Best Garden: Berat Backpackers
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Things Iâd Skip Next Time
* Blue Eye near Sarandë (beautiful but very crowded)
* Spending more than 1-2 days in Sarandë
* Choosing accommodation based only on facilities instead of atmosphere
* Trying to optimise every stop instead of slowing down
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Things Iâd Do Differently
* Rent a car for at least part of the Riviera.
* Spend longer in Shkodër.
* Base myself in Himarë instead of Sarandë if beaches were my priority.
* Explore more of the small villages like Dhërmi, Vuno and Qeparo.
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Suggested Routes
5-7 Days
* Tirana
* Berat
* Himarë
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10 Days
* Tirana
* Berat
* Gjirokastër
* Himarë
* Vlorë
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2 Weeks
* Tirana
* Berat
* Gjirokastër
* Optional: Përmet
* Sarandë
* Himarë
* Vlorë
* Shkodër
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3 Weeks
* Tirana
* Berat
* Gjirokastër
* Përmet
* Sarandë
* Himarë
* Vlorë
* Shkodër
* Theth
* Valbona
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Final Thoughts
Looking back, I realised my favourite memories werenât necessarily the famous attractions.
They were conversations in hostel gardens, owners who welcomed guests like family, wandering old towns with a coffee in hand and spontaneous swims in unbelievably clear water.
Albania isnât a country Iâd rush through.
Slow down.
Stay an extra night if youâre enjoying a hostel.
Talk to people.
Take the recommendation from the volunteer whoâs lived there for a month.
And if your budget allowsâŠ
Rent a car.
I genuinely think thatâs the one thing that would have made my trip even better.
Lastly, donât judge Albania by Tirana alone.
For me, the country truly came alive in Berat, GjirokastĂ«r, HimarĂ« and ShkodĂ«râand those are the places Iâd return to in a heartbeat.