r/AnycubicKobraS1Max

Again, a reminder of the other posts:

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicKobraS1Max/comments/1v4gjb5/a_highly_disappointing_reality_check/

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicKobraS1Max/comments/1v749lp/update_on_the_air_filter_fan_debacle_on_the_s1_max/

Update to the Update to the filter fan debacle on the S1 Max : r/AnycubicKobraS1Max

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I got an answer from Anycubic regarding my email I sent them:

>Dear Uk
Regarding your feedback, our technicians have explained: The 8020 and 12025 fans blow air in opposite directions. The 8020 fan draws air from inside the printer cavity into the air duct (the washer cover you mentioned), while the 12025 fan blows air from the air duct into the printer cavity.

While they appear to be connected in series, our original design intention was that, due to the relatively high air resistance of the PTC heater, when the 12025 fan is not running, turning on the 8020 fan allows a large amount of air to flow through the filter cartridge, achieving a filtration effect. When the cavity heating function is activated, the 12025 fan also turns on. Thus, the air path becomes: printer cavity --> 8020 fan --> air duct --> 12025 fan --> PTC heater --> printer cavity.

Currently, it appears that because the filter cartridge has a high density, its air resistance is even greater than that of the PTC heater. This means that even without the lower fan running, most of the air will still flow through the PTC heater, failing to achieve a filtration effect. One of our next ideas is to replace the 8020 fan with a switchable damper. When filtration is needed, this damper is closed to block the upper air intake, and the lower 12025 fan is turned on. This way, the airflow will be: printer cavity --> carbon bag --> air duct --> 12025 fan --> PTC heater --> printer cavity.

https://preview.redd.it/aqz26ttrnujh1.png?width=580&format=png&auto=webp&s=5262565998c706a54d3eed562b81456943597dce

https://preview.redd.it/kd525wtrnujh1.png?width=608&format=png&auto=webp&s=8c39ac18486b7af398f6ec120f42c1a82fd20629

>
Of course, we'll also try having the 8020 fan blow air into the printer cavity from inside the air duct. This way, both the top and bottom fans will blow air into the cavity from the air duct, creating negative pressure within the cavity. The air will then travel from the printer cavity --> carbon pack --> air duct --> two fans --> printer cavity.
 
Regarding the location you indicated where a red warning label should be placed, please provide a picture and mark the specific location on the picture. We will forward it to the technical department for verification. Thank you.
 
Best regards,
ANYCUBIC Support Team/Orin

I really hope they look for a proper fix for that issue ^^

35 hrs later....the riser on the wiki is indeed a riser...it has vents and is intended to lift the glass top and allow heat to escape (or not if you close the vents).

It's not a riser for the ace pro2...that was unclear to me at the time... :/

Hi everyone, how are you doing?

My Kobra S1 Max has arrived, and I’d like to use it directly with Orca Slicer and send my print jobs from there. Is this possible? If so, how do I do it?

If not, do you guys actually use Anycubic Slicer Next? I notice it doesn't have a profile for Generic PLA, for instance. Many of the filaments I use work really well with Orca's Generic PLA profile. I know I could just copy the settings from Orca to Anycubic Slicer, but I already have many good, pre-set profiles for different parts in Orca.

Thanks in advance, everyone.

It used to set hotplate temperature, wait for that to complete. Then heat nozzle.

- Now, it sets the temp to 250, then loads the first filament.

Is there any reason it sits there at 250? Are we stabilizing the nozzle heater?
I'd like an 'M140 S140' to get the temperature down.
So, after the filament is flushed, set the temperature to 140.

- While waiting for Filament to load, the hotbed could be warming up.

I added to machine gcode:

M140 S{int(first_layer_bed_temperature[0] +10)} ; hotplate warmup is [first_layer_bed_temperature] + 10 is {int(first_layer_bed_temperature[0] +10)}

G9111 bedTemp=[first_layer_bed_temperature] extruderTemp=[first_layer_temperature[initial_tool]]

M117

But, I guess the G9111 quickly reset the printer. Can the G9111 kick off the non-blocking heating of the hotplate first thing?

Is there any way to do this where the printer isn't so single threaded?

Maybe you remember this post A highly disappointing reality check... : r/AnycubicKobraS1Max followed by this post Update on the air filter fan debacle on the S1 Max : r/AnycubicKobraS1Max

I sent Anycubic an email and... yesterday I got an email:

>Technical feedback and fundamental design flaws regarding the airflow and activated carbon filter of the S1 Max

>Dear Uk
We are pleased to receive your suggestion. Upon receiving your feedback, we immediately conducted retesting and verification. It is true that the airflow through the activated carbon pack is limited, significantly reducing the adsorption effect of the activated carbon. However, given the limited space within the cavity and the fact that a small amount of air still passes through the activated carbon pack, the pack still has a certain purification capacity for the air inside the cavity. Meanwhile, our team is also seeking improvement solutions based on your suggestions. The general direction is to modify the air duct to allow more airflow through the activated carbon pack.
 
Best regards

At least it's no "We don't see an issue here"-mail. They are admitting to an issue here, and I assume a solution is being worked on for upcoming production batches. I might write back to them and ask for a STEP file for the drop pipe.

u/Dream_elb & u/zx4133

I have a baffling issue with one of my S1 Max machines. I recently had a print failure where the print lifted off the bed and the print head collided with it hard enough to tear a chunk off the heat sock. The next time I tried to print I got a clogging error before any material was extruded, which isn't out of the ordinary. So I swapped to a fresh nozzle and tried again. The same thing happened. The printer heated up, attempted to purge, then gave the error. I tried having it resume and it then attempted to start printing until it realized that it wasn't extruding and threw the clogging error again. When I remove the nozzle, I can see that filament has made its way into the nozzle and at least started to melt as it can not be easily removed.

Since then, I have tried:

• Multiple nozzles
• Replacing the heat sock with a new one
• Different types of filament (ABS, ASA, PLA)
• Removing the PTFE tube, heating the nozzle, and running a poke tool through the extruder to clear any obstructions
• Removing the nozzle and sliding the poke tool all the way through
• I confirmed that the nozzle is getting up to temperature

Nothing seems to have any effect. My next step is to try replacing the extruder. Is there anything else I should check? Maybe a bad temperature sensor somewhere allowing the nozzle to overheat? I'm frustrated as I have a major project deadline in a few weeks and can't afford to be down a printer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have created a ticket with AC, but haven't gotten a response yet.

Hey yall, Im trying to figure out the best place to put a splitter to use a external dry box. And if the dry box should be on top of the machine or on the side. Trying to print some ppa-cf and want to minimize broken filament as my wallet hurts already.