Hey everyone,
I’m dealing with a hard-faulted Electric Power Steering (EPS) rack on my 2016 Ford Explorer (3.5L Ti-VCT) and I’m trying to figure out if this module is salvageable or if I'm completely dead in the water. The rack itself is an OEM factory unit (Part prefix: FB53-3D070, stamped T210R).

The rack looks pristine on the outside—no physical damage, no heavy oxidation, and the boots are completely bone-dry and intact. However, the steering is completely bricked.

The Codes (Pulled via FORScan):
⁠U3000:96-C8⁠ - Control Module: Component Internal Failure
⁠U3000:49-48⁠ - Control Module: Internal Electronic Failure (Freeze frame on this one shows a completely impossible steering wheel angle pinning at 2496.70°)
Live Data Telemetry (Engine Running / Idling):
⁠MOD_SUP_V⁠: 14.10V (Alternator is charging perfectly)
⁠PSCM_INT_TEMP⁠: 102°F
⁠EPAS_MOTOR_CUR⁠: -19.60 Amps

The big red flag: The car is sitting idling in park, nobody is touching the steering wheel, and the motor current is stuck drawing a massive -19.60 Amps. It seems like the corrupted steering angle sensor caused the module to panic, think the wheel was spinning violently, dump max current to counter it, and lock itself down into a permanent safety loop.

What I’ve Done/Tried Thus Far:

1. Checked fuses and verified clean 14V power supply to the rack.
2. Inspected the external harness, thermal shielding, and connectors—everything is secure and clean.
3. Attempted a module reboot/reset procedure via FORScan, but it spits back: ⁠Service procedure is not supported⁠. The module is completely ignoring external diagnostic commands right now.
4. I’ve cleared the DTCs and they come right back.
5. I also had the battery die when first trying to diagnose the car when I was hooked up to the OBDII port and I couldn’t get the battery to charge. I replaced it with a new battery and reset the BCM.

My Question:
I was looking into buying the $120 2-day Ford FJDS factory software license to force a Programmable Module Installation (PMI) reflash, but because the module is throwing hard internal hardware codes (⁠:96⁠ and ⁠:49⁠) and drawing heavy current, I'm worried the bootloader will just reject the flash.
Has anyone successfully flushed out a ⁠U3000⁠ hard lockout like this with factory software, or is that -19.6A stationary current draw a definitive sign that a power MOSFET transistor or the internal sensor array is physically fried on the circuit board? I really want to fix the unit currently on the vehicle if possible.

Appreciate any insight from Ford techs or electronic repair gurus!

TL;DR: New driver, bought a high-mileage Mazda CX-3 2016 as-is for cheap, mechanic gave it a green light before I signed, now I'm seeing rust on the undercarriage that mechanic apparently didn't flag as a dealbreaker (or I didn't push on). Trying to figure out if this is normal-for-the-age rust or a real problem before I get it safetied.

The car

• 2016 Mazda CX-3 Sport, AWD
• ~260,000 km
• Bought from a used car dealer, as-is, $6,500 CAD all-in (HST included)
• First car ever, I'm a new G2 driver
• No accident history, one minor glass claim, single previous owner
• 44 documented service records covering the car's whole life
• Recent work done right before I bought it: full brake job, 4 new tires, alignment, front strut replacement

What I did before buying

• Had a mechanic scan it with a diagnostic tablet — came back all green
• Same mechanic test drove it, no complaints
• Did not get a proper hands-on undercarriage inspection done before signing — in hindsight this was the gap

What I'm seeing now

Just got a real look at the undercarriage and there's noticeable rust on:

• Rocker panels
• Brake calipers
• Possibly a perforated spot near the floor pan (not 100% sure how deep it goes)

Daily driving has been completely normal otherwise — no warning lights, no power loss, nothing. The only symptom is an occasional creaking sound when braking.

After a closer look

• The car sat parked outside for 3-4 months before I got it — there's surface rust on bolts and hardware pretty much everywhere, including inside the cargo area, which lines up with general weather exposure rather than anything caliper-specific
• That said, the brake caliper carrier shows heavier corrosion than the surrounding area — possible sticking/seized slide pins, which could explain the creaking
• Not sure yet if the calipers themselves were actually replaced during the recent brake job, or just pads/rotors
• Heat shield looks bent or partially detached
• One localized spot has noticeably more advanced rust than the rest of the underbody — needs a hoist and a proper probe to confirm whether it's just surface or actual perforation

Photos

(attach here: full undercarriage overview, rocker panels close-up, calipers, the suspect floor pan area, the heat shield, and the brakes)

What I'm actually trying to figure out

1. Is this normal surface rust for a 10-year-old car that's done Ontario winters, or does this look structural/perforated?
2. Does the caliper carrier corrosion look like plain surface rust from sitting, or does it look like something that's already affecting function?
3. Realistically, how much extra should I budget for safety certification + repairs + rustproofing + full service on top of the $6,500?
4. Given the rest of the history (single owner, full service records, recent brake/tire/strut work), would you have walked from this deal at this price — or is this a fairly normal tradeoff for what I paid?

Plan so far

• Taking it to an independent shop with zero connection to the purchase to get the Ontario Safety Standards Certificate — treating this as a real inspection, not a formality
• Getting rustproofing done within the next couple weeks regardless of what the safety turns up
• It's an as-is sale, so any repairs needed to pass safety are on me either way

Appreciate any eyes on this — especially from anyone who's dealt with CX-3s specifically or knows what's "normal" vs "run" for a Southern Ontario winter car at this age/mileage.

My car ran 150k km. Can somebody tell me if my timing chain sounds worn.

-cold start

Hello Fellow Taco owners.
I own a 2012 Tacoma about 181K on the dash, and recently been having some issues, so last week my front end locked up while I was waiting in a drive through line, I ended up having to reverse out like half of block lengths just to unlock it, and be able to move forward in drive. Originally when I happened I tired everything from 4H to 4L and even L,2,3,4 but nothing moved it forward until I went into reverse, I went to the shop they change the passenger front caliber and hoses they said it was causing the issue, but more recently over the past 2 days it started happening again, it’s like a bang when it does happen, now I’ve unplugged the ABS Sensor trying to see if that helps the issue and it does, but now it feels sluggish when you feel like it’s gonna happen, but I can push past it. Now guys I have no idea if it’s the front differential, or the whole drive shaft, or even the axel. I ruled out the ABS Sensor making it lock up but now it’s like I’m chasing a problem. If you guys have any ideas of what this could be please leave a comment.

For reference I’m located in NYC, if anyone knows of a good trust worthy shop that specializes in 4X4 vehicles
I would like to get some stuff done as well as fix this issue I am having. Truck basically stock pictured for reference.

Code: P0011

Hey everyone, I'm completely out of ideas with a persistent P0011 code. Here is everything that’s been done so far:

Oil and oil filter: changed (5w30 ACDELCO, GM filter)

VVT Solenoids: Replaced with new ones (and interchanged them to troubleshoot. the code stayed on the intake side).

Check valve: Replaced the oil gallery non-return valve located below the alternator.

I took off the upper timing cover and discovered the goddamn previous mechanics used the wrong tools and completely butchered the bolts on both sprockets (cam phasers). That said, they aren't leaking oil and they don't wobble (at least not so I can tell)

When I clear the code, it takes about 30 minutes of driving before code pops up back again.

My next thought is checking the mechanical base timing and replacing the VVT intake sprocket entirely. I also have several videos of the car starting up if anyone needs to hear the cold or warm start audio to help diagnose.

I really want to fix it and get rid of this piece of sh*t.

Thank you all for your help in advance, truly.

I’m needing help with my odometer repair on a 1991 Jaguar XJ-S and while it’s out I want the bulbs exchanged for a brighter bulb - probably LED. I’m betting one of those little plastic cogs that mechanically turn the numbers has disintegrated. I’ve replaced one of these before in a 91 Volvo but I don’t have the free time I once had in my youth. I’d ideally like to visit a shop in my area but that’s probably not likely. Speedo and all other dials work fine.

1997 Ford Taurus
Sat for seven years, never started in Montana in a field.
I put a little bit of elbow grease and I replaced the fuel pump, flushed and replaced power steering pump fluid and drove it for about 300+ miles and it was very clean and comfortable surprisingly!!

Then I went to sell it. My very first father and son that showed up in order to get the son a reliable vehicle to get back-and-forth 7 miles to his job.
The moment they pulled it out of my driveway, I could tell the transmission was slipping, both in forward and reverse.

My optimistic fingers crossed 🤞🏻 question 🙋‍♂️ is if I flush the transmission and put new fluid in is there any chance of saving it for less than $200 investment?

OR

Am I looking at saving my $200, yanking the engine and selling it, yanking the perfect interior seats and selling them, selling the perfect windshield, selling the brand new halogen headlights I put in, selling the Pirelli 16” I upgraded the stock 15’s to a 1989 Cougar 16 rim, and scrapping the rest?

OR is there a middle ground I’m not aware of to try?

I’m just trying to pull $1500 out of it and saying good riddance… but not selling it with slippin sally signals!

Thoughts??? Help??? Confirm???

[Affected areas between white lines]

2005 Dodge Neon Sxt, 197,000+ miles, automatic, front brake rotors

Did not install myself, bought parts brand new, clip piece (?) is grinding into the side of the rotor, makes horrible grinding noise when moving unless like 40-50mph, currently this is what I can see until a few hours from now.

Will at least try to make the guy who installed them pay me for new rotors

2021 Nissan Sentra, much louder in curves

Do I really need a whole new engine?
I’ve only had the car for about 6 months. I’ve gotten advice that this auto shop might be trying to make more money to switch out the whole engine instead of alternatives, also people have told me to take it to the dealership I bought it at, as well as getting it towed to get a second opinion at another shop, or taking it to a Subaru auto shop.

I’m trying to fix my car without having to drop 10k…
I paid 20k for this car. Any advice or suggestions?