r/BZ4X

I'm in the market for an EV and considering both Toyota and Subaru. The cars share a weird lack of decent storage around the cockpit (the cheapish plastic tray in the center console box that can only be removed by basically flipping it over is downright insulting). I couldn't find a lot of aftermarket products either - how do you manage your smaller belongings in the car?

Thing is, I've been driving a 2006 Prius 2 for 20 years (best car I'll ever have owned) which has two cup holders with actual lids, a large center console box, an extremely useful center compartment with lid, a completely hidden drawer below and TWO glove boxes... in a car about half the size of a BZ Woodland/Trailseeker... the interior of those cars seems extremely inferior to me. Aside from the weird TV screen in the middle.

Hi all, my dad owns a 2026 Toyota BZ that went in for repair at the dealership due to a charging malfunction error. Although the vehicle was still charging and only showing the message at that point, the repair team replaced the entire charging module—and during that process, damaged the charging port component that secures chargers in place, leaving the car unable to charge. The vehicle has now sat in the lot for three weeks, with one week passing beyond the estimated part arrival date, without any updates. My dad is currently using a rental car, covering both its gas costs and the bZ payments. This has all happened within the first couple of months of ownership. I’m wondering whether we might be able to seek reimbursement for gas expenses, since avoiding gas costs was the main reason for choosing the bZ, and he now pays for both. Because he drives for work, he has already exceeded the rental’s allowed mileage, with no alternative available.

BZ wipers getting loud and squeaky. Any recommendations for super quiet good quality wiper blades? I hear silicone wipers are superior.

I'm in a cellular dead zone so wondering if I connect to my home WiFi will allow the DCM to send its spy data on me successfully, possibly helping the 12v drain. It occurs to me that it might only transmit over cellular, which would doom that experiment.

The only downside would be wireless CarPlay not connecting when I enter the vehicle but I'm happy to just plug my phone into USB-C.

I've been having some intermittent problems with Adaptive Cruise Control. Sorry I don't have pictures since, well, I'm driving when these issues occur.

1. "Lane tracing assistant unavailable soon. Take control of steering wheel" message and audio alert comes up on driver screen. This happens when I'm on a fairly flat freeway, clear visibility, no cars around me, and VERY CLEARLY MARKD lanes with dashed lines on relatively new and flat road. Also, my hands ARE on the steering wheel. Sometimes the message goes away on it's own, but sometimes I have to press the return/escape button on the left cluster of the steering wheel. If I don't do that when the alert persists, it will self cancel cruise control.
2. "Driver no operation hold steering wheel" alert/message. This is related to #1 and comes on following sometimes if I don't press the escape/return button. I am holding the steering wheel everywhere for it to try and sense me but it sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Again, the return/escape button cancels this out... until the next time it happens.

To be clear, this doesn't happen every time I drive. But in a week's worth of driving, it will happen every other or third time I drive with adaptive cruise control on the highway.

I'm keeping a punch list for things to address when I go in for my first service that aren't urgent (only at 3K miles now so 2K more to go before first service). I thought I would share as a PSA and to see if others have seen this issue and what they may have done to improve it.

Got my SF Bay Area bZ end of March, so was manufactured Feb or earlier? Still haven't gotten the recall notice and not in Toyota or NHSTA recall site despite other posts saying that bZ's made before April were affected.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

UPDATE: Thanks to all the feedback. I got a change to put into action the consensus suggestion and sure enough, when the "Lane tracing..." message/alert comes up, I just wiggle the wheel left to right a little and the message/alert goes away! I have an XLE FWD small battery base model so I guess no capacitive touch steering wheel so needs motion. I guess the Limited trip can really just touch the wheel. However, this still doesn't STOP the message from coming up when there is PLENTY of clearly marked LANES for the cameras to lock onto. It just randomly decides, even on a long straight stretch with no upcoming turns that it has lost track of the lanes.... My next test is to turn LTA off and see if I end up with no warnings/alerts. Thanks again for all who weighed in. Your typing is much appreciated.

Good news for potential future Prologue owners living in California either looking to buy new or used.

A new State incentive will soon go into effect. The $135 million pot will require participating automakers to match dollar for dollar, providing up to $3,500 at point of sale to the consumer.

For who?: First-time EV buyers only. Must be California resident

When: Soon, however no exact date provided - pending CARB finalizing details

Limits: MSRP for new EV may not exceed $50,000. Used EV sell price to not exceed $25,000.

Incentive amount: $3,500 for new EV.
$1,750 for used

So I just got the new Emporia Pro charger finally istalled. It is a GREAT charger. However, my Toyota App is refusing the show charging SOC while charging and therefore is not showing the charge session in the Charge History section of the app.

To be fair, there was already app problems before I installed the Emporia Pro and using the Toyota L1 Charger.

Right before install, it would show the status of charging during the L1 charging session, but it would not update the SOC until charging was completed. Prior to this problem, it would show SOC but required 3-6 refreshes before the current SOC of charging would show. But at least the session showed up in the app's Charge History.

During the install, I tested one charge with the Emporia Pro and that session did show in the Charge History, but couldn't get an SOC update until after session completed.

Now, it doesn't even show the status of charging during a charge with the L2 Emporia Pro (I'm using a 6A/1.5kwh rate of charge, so maybe that's it? As I type this, I realize I haven't tried higher than 6a yet and the one session that did record was at 40a/9kwh to test the max speed of the charger). So no Charge history for these 6a charges and no charging state/SOC during charge.

Anyone else seen these issues?

Thanks in advance again for this subreddit's collective wisdom.

Does anyone have a solution to getting rid of those pesky white sunscreen stains? I saw someone said to use micellar water so I might try that. Someone else said use rubbing alcohol but I'm worried that will cause damage. It's all on the doors where our knees are, some on the side of the front seats too.

What worked for you?

I’m considering buying a 2023 Limited with 34k miles for 21k. The only thing I’d that it’s a lemon law buyback. It was because of a battery issue and they have already fixed out. Is it worth taking the dive? How long does DC charging usually take for you? I plan to mainly use this to drive to and back from work and will mainly be using public chargers.
Thanks

Alright, y'all. So, I've been testing this theory about the AT&T 4G causing the battery drain for a week.

Just to give you guys a background, I got the vehicle two weeks ago. I only drove it for a full day on Sunday. The car was parked in the garage for 5 days. I tried to leave the house on Saturday morning but failed due to the battery drain. I panicked like most of y'all. Luckily, I have a NOCO jump starter handy and was able to start it right away.

So, I've gone into this sub and many other subs to try and find an answer. I stumbled upon one comment by one user that said he fixed it by turning off the 4G trial. I thought to myself, "hmm that seems silly but it may make sense because AT&T coverage may be terrible in my area." FYI, I use T-Mo and the coverage is amazing here. I called up AT&T the next morning and had it turned off. I left other DCM services enabled.

Just to make sure that I set the test correctly, I followed exactly how I left the vehicle the week prior. I did not move the car from the garage for 5 full days. I did, however, unlock the doors a couple times to see if the lights would turn on and the doors unlocked. In theory, this should also drain some more power. No issues with all of that. I haven't charged the car since Sunday either; it was left to 81% charged.

And here's the good news: I went to start the car this morning and it started! 🥳

With that said, this may work for me and a few others out there, but may not fix it for everyone. I think we still need to demand Toyota/Subaru to replace our 12v with an AGM or LiFePO4 version ASAP until they resolve the issue permanently.

Hello all. Has anyone found anything to put over the blinding glare of the piano black around the console? All I can find is carbon fiber or wood grain. Any links would be appreciated.

Some of you may have seen some of my comments. I am a Toyota MDT (Master Diag Tech), I have been following the battery drain issues on here for a while. After gathering some info, I reached out to my FTS (Field Technical Specialist) essentially a techs go to for hard to diag or strange cases.

He told me that Toyota is aware of the issue and trying to investigate, the problem is getting cars with a consistent issue that they can study.

I am aware that there are techs out there that just kind of blow this off (probably because they don’t see it as an issue), but this is where I am asking for your help.

Those of you who are experiencing the issue consistently, please get your cars to the dealer and demand they get there FTS involved and start a TAS case (a TAS case means the tech and FTS are documenting all findings for investigative purposes with Toyota) DO NOT TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER. Let’s get this resolved. Thank you. I am genuinely curious what will be found, and I personally love that Toyota is finally committing to BEVs, if this 12v drain is the biggest issue they are having so far, that is a good sign, let’s help them make it better.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been thinking about this a lot lately while out at public fast chargers. Toyota announced that true Plug & Charge (the ISO 15118 protocol where you just plug in and the car handles authentication/payment automatically) is officially a feature for the 2026 model year. 

But it makes me wonder... why are the 2023–2025 models completely left out of this?

I know some people use EVgo’s AutoCharge+, which works okay, but that’s an EVgo-specific workaround that just reads the car's MAC address. It isn't true Plug & Charge. 

As far as I understand, standard ISO 15118 compliance is almost entirely a software and firmware protocol. The car already communicates with the charger to handshake, handle digital security tokens, and manage current. It's not like our 2023 models lack the physical hardware to talk to a station.
With Toyota pushing out OTA updates and even rolling out NACS adapters and Apple Maps EV routing for the older model years, it feels like adding true Plug & Charge capability via an over-the-air update should be entirely possible.

Does anyone with more of a tech or engineering background know if there's an actual hardware limitation preventing the 2023s from getting this? Or is Toyota just holding it back as an incentive to get people to trade up to newer model years?
Curious to hear your thoughts, or if anyone has managed to get true Plug & Charge (not AutoCharge) working through some other workaround.

We just picked up our very first EV - the aforementioned 2026 bZ Limited Edition to replace my wife's 1998 Honda Accord. Although that is not the oldest car we own (that would be my 1997 Honda Civic EX w/ manual transmission) and the "newest" car we own is the 2014 Honda Accord EX-L w/ the 2.4L engine.
Also picked up a ton of bugs from the drive over on the ~65miles from dealership to our home. LOLz.
Compared to our other cars, this car has a ton of electronics and sensors. Tried searching online and looking through Toyota's website for any precautions to take prior to taking them through a touchless car wash. Some things I have gathered so far:

1. Turn off automatic wipers (not sure if it is turned on by default)
2. Toyota manual indicated turning off Toyota Sense 3.0 (if I got that right - although not sure how we turn it off?)
3. I have come across some posts here from folks that had to put a tape on the charging port door when going through touchless carwash so will likely be doing that.
4. Do we leave the bZ turned on once inside the carwash while it is getting washed (like we do with our ICE cars) OR is it recommended to turn it off?
   Do these sound right or are there any additional precautions we should take while going through the carwash - Would appreciate any tips we may have missed.

Thanks much in advance for any feedback!