Made some conversation starters for my vendor booth out of scrap wood and some old hardware. Thought they were super cute. Plan to add some Keychain hooks to them and sell them for a couple bucks each or just give them away to kids at vendor events.
I’m looking at two types of countersinks. This first type doesn’t have a drill bit and the kinds that incorporate the drill bit.
Which set is better?
If I were to use this style (pictured), would I drill a hole first and then countersink or vice versa?
Finished a Feather Box for my wife that I made out of reclaimed Cedar from our fallen Mailbox post. Didn't really take many pics of the progress but got some finished shots. Learned a lot on how much dialing in cuts matters on small items like this and especially about needing razor sharp planes and chisels. Wasn't shooting fir perfect but to finish it in a set timeline to the best if my abilities. Lots of flaws but I'm proud of it.
Edit: The pictures dont show it but only the outside is finished with clear coat the inside is left as unfinished cedar to allow it's preservative properties to come through.
Before you say send it back, the seller has already said I can return for a full refund and a replacement can be sent, I’m working on a remodel and the door is supposed to be installed in 4 days, so not enough time to get a new one made. The seller gave me permission to attempt a fix before shipping back.
Ordered a mahogany door, 1/8 veneer, and during shipping some form of oil or grease leaked or got spilled on it. It’s unfinished, any ideas on how to remove it all from the door?
Worst case, I’ve also considered cutting the whole lock stile off, remaking it, and using dominos to reattach the lock stile. Would dominos be strong enough? Or should I cut larger floating tenons?
Any serious help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Hi, guys. My buddy has a large pergola over his deck in the PNW. He sent these images today and seems sure he needs to remove the entire structure because of cracks in the posts.
I'm not particularly knowledgeable about wood, but a google search leads me to believe this is called
"checking," and completely normal and safe to stay. He seems to think his posts aren’t experiencing the same issue as the links I sent him.
Can any of you fine ladies and gentlemen correct me if I'm wrong? I'm not sure how long it's stood so far, l'd guess at least ten years. I've added video on Imgur here:
Thanks!
With hands gripping both edges of the board kind of pushing down and pulling against the fence at the same time. I can reach the power switch without reaching over the spinning blade. Not sure if this would be dangerous or not and if so why?
Edit: just to clear up some common questions: yes I have taken shop classes before. Honestly the instructor was more concerned with stopping others from trying to do trick shots and freestyling miter cuts so it wasn't the most thorough but I did have general safety impressed upon me. My guard, riving knife, and kickback pawl don't come off, and I wear a face shield. I fear I was just too lazy an artist to illustrate them. And yes, I've learned. I shall from here forth only make cuts from the front. This just felt stable to me since I was essentially able to grip the piece from both ends and hold it firm while being several inches away from the blade, vs a push stick which only leaves me with one point of contact. I know there are other issues with this positioning now, but that was just my initial logic.
She is finished and her name is marry
I’ve got this slab of maple and can’t decide how to finish it… I want it to be slightly more rich with orange and red but idk how to accomplish that… I’ve heard stain doesn’t go well with maple… right now considering just a poly coat and letting it turn amber over time? Maybe? Dyes or shellac maybe? Also want the lines and grain to show through the color… Any advice is helpful, thanks
Made my first cutting board and i know the joints in these things need to be pretty free of imperfections due to concerns of bacteria growth. I have a couple spots I'm looking for opinions on.
One is a joint. The other is an imperfection in the wood (i should have been more careful selecting my pieces, but i got carried away wanting to build). On the imperfection part, i can feel a small hole.
Am i good to try to fill these with glue and sawdust?
So I have this giant slab of oak that I’ve been working on. It has two trees which grew into one, and then maybe a little tiny tree right above the right core. A few weeks ago, I built a jig and used a router to plane it flat and it worked after some trial and error (had never used one before) I took a level to it and it was perfect so I worked on the sides then set the slab to the side for a few weeks to work on something else. It was left sitting flat on the table with nothing under it (picture 2) and here you can see how underneath the slab on the right I didn’t completely plane it because it be on the underside of the table. Yesterday, I started sanding it and when I flipped it I noticed how warped it had become (picture 1). Pictures 4, 5 and 6 show the level after it warped, which to me it seems like the middle sunk in somehow.
What do I do? Is there any way to fix the warping without having to plane it again? Is there some kind of support or groove that needs to be added to prevent this? Is it doomed to forever warp? I have very little experience with woodworking so absolutely any advice is greatly appreciated.
So been lurking YouTube and I needed a custom closet for a very small closet space thought it seems easy enough, but it wasn’t. I bought birch wood cabinet grade 3/4 inch plywood and I drew a plan using wall length as a reference but I didn’t realize wall length wasn’t uniform and was short on the bottom and wider at the top messing up measurements only to figure out after I assembled the closet which I had to unassembled and cut again and reassemble. To make matters worse I bought ngx bora straight edge to rip cut plywood and the screws protruded and got in the way of the saw plate making cuts a bit uneven. Make the matters worse edge bands was not easy to cut as I saw on YouTube and it made a lot of cuts into the finished piece. In the end I managed to finish it but I am very unhappy how sloppy it was for something so simple. Thanks for hearing out my rant
Picked up a grwat table and chairs for a great deal. Done most of my projects from start to finish and dont have to start of experience stripping finishes. In the process of stripping the table first. Figured the chairs will take longer. I bought a run of the mill stripper at the big blue box store. Already have a nice respirator and chemical gloves. Using a plastic scraper. So far it seems to be going well. Any tips or tricks y'all have would be appreciated. Took a close up of some of the wood for any help with ID ion yhe wood. Thanks folks.
Help! I just moved into a new house, built in the 1960s. The doorways are not as wide as my previous house. As a result, my prized Mission oak desk does not fit through most doorways. I managed to get it in the front doorway, but it is now trapped in the living room.
I was planning to move it into one of the bedrooms as a study, but 1) the table is too wide, 2) the Mission-style slats block it from being stood up on its side and rotated around the doorway, 3) standing it vertically is also too wide. I needed another ~1" of clearance.
The table should be able to squeeze through the doorway without the table top; but the top appears to be attached to the base with screws AND glue (and maybe dowels?), so it would not be easy to disassemble/reassemble. It will need to pass through x2 doorways, so taking apart the door frames is not appetizing either...
Looking for advice. How easily can this desk be disassembled, and more importantly reassembled? How would you approach the job - steps? precautions? tools needed? I would contact the manufacturer for guidance, but the Etsy shop (DesignStudios005) has gone out of business.
Reaching out as someone uninitiated in woodworking, but hoping to learn from the collective wisdom of this forum. Thanks!
EDIT: Thanks for the feedback so far. Please note that the front door is wider than the other doorways in the house (which is how the desk got to where it is currently stranded) AND there are x2 doorways standing between the desk and its intended destination, the study room. Also, rotating/pivoting through the doorway has been tried but is blocked by the Mission wood slats on x3 sides.
This was a bigger project than I realized. The most valuable thing I learned was that I can
just free hand with my circular saw for cuts doing rough unfinished projects like this one
that doesn't require total precision
I am making 2 of these for a client but I am not pleased with how it looks.
Unfortunately, I did have to rush the finishing of my project due to my HSC Trial exam study messing up my schedule, but fortunately I was able to finish it in time with no issues! For any of you wondering I used Sample73 a hard wax oil finish developed by FourEyes Furniture a great YouTuber I recommend you all watch.
4 months and countless sweaty hours in the garage later, and it’s finally finished. I designed, planned, and built every detail.
There are 76 individual “tails” throughout the piece, all cut by hand.
Drawers are "piston fit". As close as I could get, anyway.
It’s made almost entirely with traditional joinery (although the knobs and base are attached with screws, sue me!).
Joinery:
Carcass: Through dovetails and dados for the internal dividers
Drawers: Half-blind dovetails and dados
Base: Mortise and tenons
The carcass and fronts are walnut, the drawer sides are curly maple, and baltic birch plywood makes up some of the internal components. The whole thing is finished with hardwax oil.
Thanks for reading!
everyone !
A few weeks ago my grandfather decided to cut down his lilac tree because it hadn't grown flowers for years. So I picked up a piece of the trunk to turn it into something. Recently, I finally got an idea! I made a watch stand for my mother, who put away her Casio in the original cardboard box.
What do you think about it ?
Have a nice day
Y’all may remember my pergola project from a few months ago.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BeginnerWoodWorking/s/PfBkKiZCNS
Well I had a ton of left over wood. I sold all the full length pieces on Facebook market place but I had a ton of 1x2 scraps left over and I wasn’t sure what to do with them.
Until now.
I cut up some blocks and made these hanging plant baskets, tacked together with some wood glue and brad nails. Initially, I used the brad nails I had on hand (2”) which were waaaay too long - I had to snip all the end pieces hanging out. I ended up getting 1.25” and the remaining baskets I made were flawless.
I used the same clear ready seal I originally used on my pergola and fence, and then got a 50’ length of galvanized cable that I cut up and crimped to use as hangers (instead of chain).
Once assembled and sealed, I stapled fiberglass window screen to the inside to prevent soil from falling out during waterings, and placed a handful of orchid bark to further prevent fall out and ensure airflow to the roots.
And here’s my first hanging basket plant - philodendron micans. I love the contrast of the velvety green leaves against the geometric redwood blocks.
Since getting the appropriate sized nails, the last few assemblies have gone together clean and smoothly. I plan to build a bunch of these as Christmas gifts for my planty frens 🌱❤️ (I have more 1x2 scraps than I know what to do with, even after gifting a ton away)
Happy woodworking, y’all