u/JLansford

Image 1 — Learning Pocket Screws n
Image 2 — Learning Pocket Screws n
Image 3 — Learning Pocket Screws n
Image 4 — Learning Pocket Screws n

Learning Pocket Screws n

On the advice of a few commenters from a previous post, I got a Kreg 320 pocket screw jig to join a simple box that I’m making.
Even though this is a rudimentary project that I’m using just to get practice, I want to make sure I have it properly lined up before I start drilling.
Am I correct in measuring this as 3/4”? That’s what the wood measures out when I do it with a traditional tape measure. But this little tool that came with the jig makes it look like 1/2”.
And if I want to screw these two pieces together as seen in the picture, do I have it set in the right place? It doesn’t seem like it’s long enough.
I watched a few videos online but I’m still a little confused.
Thanks.

u/JLansford — 1 day ago

Need help choosing a joinery skill to learn for a project

Trying to start real small for my first solo, home project.
I want a three sided box to sit on a built-in shelf to help conceal an outlet and a small box that connects to some home speakers.
The idea is to have a front panel, a top panel and a single side panel (on the right side, if that matters).
I would sit this on the built in (if there’s a way to fasten it so I don’t mess with the beautiful built-in shelves, great. If not, no worries.)
I reckon the easiest thing to do would be cut the three panels to size and then just drill them together. But I doubt that would look great and I’d rather just this as an opportunity to work on a technique.
I have a circular saw and a jig saw. I’m open to buying maybe one more ($100ish) tool but rather not if possible. What joint should I learn first with this project?!

Thanks.

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u/JLansford — 6 days ago

Which type of contractor to help with mold

Hey y’all. So I have some mold in my basement in two spots. Underneath the bathroom and underneath the entryway.
I want to get someone in here to help with the problems but I’m not sure which type of service I should look for. Should I get a plumber for the bathroom and a general contractor for under the entryway? Or are there mold treatment companies?
If so, what should I be on the look out to make sure they are a reliable company?

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u/JLansford — 9 days ago

We have a Cape Cod in New England (1320 square feet) from 1940 with existing duct work from an older (20-30 years) AC unit. We have an oil fueled boiler system for heat. We are looking to convert the entire system to a heat pump.

The upstairs is half finished, without any existing duct work so we will have to get a split system for up there.

From a money standpoint, the first quote seems like a slam dunk. But then, I do wonder if it is too good to be true and if I am missing something important.

(We are also looking at replacing a gas water heater with a heat pump model as well. Only 1 company actually included that work in their initial quotes.)

Quote 1: $24,203 (Before the $1K per ton rebates)

  • MAH24H2MHWA0- M4 INNOVIAR R454B MULTI ZONE 24K DUCTED AIR HANDLER
  • MCW12H2BHRA- M4 INNOVIAR R454B SINGLE/MULTI ZONE 12K DUCTLESS FLOOR CONSOLE
  • MOMH2BM5B36 M4 INNOVIAR R454B MULTI ZONE 36K DUCTLESS HEAT PUMP 5 PORT
  • Aprilaire 700

And the general description:

  • Replace main level HVAC equipment with heat pump equipment Adapt existing ductwork to new equipment Replace refrigerant piping from inside equipment to outside equipment New condensation pump with discharge tubing to internal drain line (washing machine drain) Adapt all electrical to new equipment Run new 18/7 wire to thermostat location on 1st floor Heat pump Wi-Fi thermostat Low mounted mini split on 2nd floor finished room side Condenser will be size for an additional zone to be installed on 2nd floor in future Power humidifier w/ humidistat 50 gallon heat pump water heater Adapt existing domestic piping to new equipment Condensation pump for water heater with discharge tubing to internal drain line (washing machine drain) All electrical to equipment stated in this proposal Demo oil fired boiler/oil tank and all accessible piping in basement
  • 1 year craftmanship guarantee provided by (install company) 10 year equipment warranty provide by manufacture once product registration completed by end user Remove and discard all old equipment and materials from site Startup and commission equipment stated in this proposal
  • ** Does NOT include electrical service upgrade or panel replacement **

Quote Two: $26,000 and doesn't include removal of the old oil tank (it converts the boiler to back-up heat) nor does it include the hot water heater. Plus, I believe that it is not eligible for the full $1k rebates since it still has the oil heat as back up.

  • 1- Mitsubishi model MXZ-SM60NLHZ outdoor heat pump, 60,000 BTUH, 18 SEER2
  • 1- Mitsubishi model SVZ-AP36NL ducted air handler 36,000 BTUH for first floor
  • 1- Mitsubishi model NFZ-KX12NL ductless air handler 12,000 BTUH for 2nd floor bedroom
  • 1- Mitsubishi model PAC-LMA30BC 3 port refrigerant manifold branch box (extra port for future)
  • 1- Mitsubishi model PAC-WHS01HCE Kumo Station to integration of boiler back-up heat 3- Mitsubishi model PAC-USWHS002 Kumo Clouds for remote access 1- Mitsubishi model MHK2 wall mount thermostat for first floor 1- Mitsubishi hand held remote controller for second floor 3- Refrigerant tubing circuits 2- Condensate drains 1- Outdoor heat pump snow stand with equipment pad 1- Duct modifications and required 1- Permit

Quote Three: $21,495 (without the removal of the old oil tank and system or the install of the HPHW. And this is after the rebates)

Mitsubishi MXZ-4C36NAHZ2-U1 - 3 Ton Multi-zone Inverter Heat-Pump Outdoor Unit, 208-230/1/60
MISMXZ4C36NAHZ2U1

MXZ-4C36NAHZ2-U1 4 ZONE.

Work includes:
Disconnection, removal and disposal of the existing outdoor condenser unit and indoor air handler from the property.

- Reconnection of the new condenser to existing power wiring and placed onto a new raised heatpump pad.

- Reconnection of air handler to existing ductwork and power/control wiring. New condensate drain and condensate pump. If air filter option is not chosen then air filter will be a 1" air filter on end of the air handler most likely similar to existing unit.

- Power wiring upgrade of the air handler to include a new 8kw electric heat supplement kit. Total Heating BTU's would be approximately 28,000 @ 5F outdoor temperature for the heat pump and an additional approximate 27,000BTU's for the 8kw electric heat. Home at Heat load design is coming in at approximately 52,000 BTU's. Also will need to upgrade the power wiring to the outdoor condenser unit.

- New Floormount ductless wallhung unit for the Office upstairs room that will be mounted on the low wall portion on wall adjoining the crawlspace. The lines will run through the crawlspace and down the side of the home in linehide (fake gutter like material)

- New refrigerant lines run from indoor unit to outdoor condenser unit.
- Town Mechanical Permit
- One Year Maintenance is included and to be performed before the 12 month anniversary.

- One Year Warranty on all Labor/Equipment/Materials provided is included. Manufacturer carries additional parts warranty up to 12 years of coverage on limited parts/materials with our Diamond Dealer Status and properly registered equipment.

- Check, test and startup of the new equipment.

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u/JLansford — 20 days ago

There is a cellar under a sunroom at my house. Water seeps in during rain storms which causes some minor flooding. I am planning a french drain to help redirect the water away from the cellar which is definitely one of the problems. But I am wondering if I should do any waterproof sealing measures inside the actual cellar? Would it be worth it and what type/brand do you recommend? Is Drylok dependable? Or any other things I should be looking out for?

Thanks for the help.

u/JLansford — 25 days ago