
Noob here with a leaky pipe.
Edit: NVM. The OD is actually 5/8”. The measuring tape is not mine. I feel stupid.

Edit: NVM. The OD is actually 5/8”. The measuring tape is not mine. I feel stupid.
How would you guys fix this crooked garage entry door? The top right is rubbing. This door has two spring loaded hinges, top and bottom, and does not seem to be adjustable (to bring the door closer to the jamb. Thinking of switching out the center to a spring loaded hinge. And replacing the top and bottom with standard hinges, which I could then adjust.
Edit: the hinge screws are NOT loose anywhere on the door or on the jambs. They all look lol nice and tight.
Installed this drain setup today for a customer. I’m a handyman and never claimed to be a plumber. I attached the original setup, and today’s before and after photos. I couldn’t quite figure out where to fit an AAV with the position of the disposal and lack of space behind it. The customers original setup with a double sink had the disposal on the left so there was plenty of room for the AAV before the wall stub out. She had gone awhile without her sink and just wanted it hooked up so I did the best I could today with what I had on hand.
I feel like it’s important to add that there wasn’t room on the right side of the cabinet to swing the disposal around 180 degrees. It was also a 2in stub out so I had to reduce to 1 1/2 which took up precious space. I used a street 45 to save a little space but still not room for a santee and AAV.
I assume they’re gonna call a plumber eventually to add the vent, what would you pros do to fit an AAV in this small area?
We have a 50lb mirror with D rings but they are too high up to sufficiently run a wire across. The wall we want to hang it on does not have studs where the rings are (we thought we could run a wire and then hang it off of the stud, which is about in the middle of the mirror). We tried to run a wire but we cannot get it tight enough ourselves (it will likely show while hanging). Any tips/suggestions? Thanks!
I accidentally damaged a small area of drywall when removing a wall-mounted hair dryer holder in my rental.
There is no actual hole. The paint itself isn't peeling, but it looks like the paper layer on the surface of the drywall was pulled/lifted, so the area is slightly bubbled/raised. I also have a few small scratches that I filled with wood putty.
My landlord has seen it and is going to ask someone about the repair cost. I'm trying to get an idea of what a reasonable handyman/repair cost would be in the Vancouver, BC area.
Would this be a simple skim coat/sand/paint repair, or does the raised drywall paper need to be removed and repaired first? And roughly how much would you expect to charge for something like this?
I don't want to make it worse by trying to DIY it further, so I'm leaving it alone for now
I’ve got a large white board that I’ve had for awhile and have always just had it propped up against the wall. I’d like to mount it to the drywall but idk how as the white board has no hardware on it for hanging, like brackets or loops of any kind. I’ve tried heavy duty command strips but the ledge is too narrow to hold it and a bit too deep for the strip to lay flat and secure. It’s not super heavy but heavy enough that it needs a real mount. I’m comfortable using a drill and screws and whatnot, just not sure how to approach this one. Pic shows the only features on the back of board.
I'm looking to have my front door replaced on my mobile home along with the frame. Our storm door wasn't sealing properly against water so the particle board (ugh) at the base looks like it's falling apart. I know since it's going to be new everything along with dealing with water damage it's going to be pricier than I originally anticipated.
Handyman came to check it out and is going to look into material costs (price for mobile home door vs. buying a normal door and cutting to size) and will get back to me with a more specific estimate. I'm a single mom and know basically nothing about any of this, and my mom always warned me that some people might take advantage of that...I'm very worried I'll end up getting screwed and not even know it.
Located in Upstate NY. I've saved up a couple thousand for this project just in case.
Hello everyone! Me and my husband bought a house two years ago, with Ofcourse an immeasurable list of things that need to be done. Recently we found mold in our over the oven range, so we had it replaced along with all the metal ducting. Next thing you know, it’s still leaking! The vent does lead up to the roof, which I’ve heard is a bit strange. Our handyman replace it all, it was molded all throughout, even insulated the pipe and we are still getting a leak. I feel devastated and brutally assaulted by the past few weeks LOL. I will attach a photo, the first being the vent to the range, the second being what the handyman says is what we SHOULDVE had. He says he wants to take the piece of metal, that is too heavy to close (?) on this vent and get a new flue, but that doesn’t make sense because of its faces angle. (I’m very scared of heights, so I can’t really look at it myself. Just looking for some opinions on all of this considering it still isnt fixed after he promised it would be the first two times he came to fix it.. thank you so much in advance. 🥰 I believe I flared this properly
This is how my walls look after removing existing tile. The house was built in 1930’s. Some sort of plaster over concrete board walls. So some of the plaster came off with the old tile down to the concrete board.
What do I need to do to prepare for laying the new backsplash tile? Should I remove all remaining thinset? Or just skim the wall relatively flat? Or am I good to just tile over everything since there isn’t more than ~1/4” deviation between high and low spots?
Thanks for the input!
Like the title says, I have a complete 55 gallons spray-applied water-based asphalt-emulsion waterproofing membrane plastic drum, which is probably expired (almost 4 years old). I haven't moved it from that spot in the last 3 months.
First, I wanted to get it into a truck to take it to a waste disposal place.... It was impossible, and I don't want to pay for any special machinery.
I came to the conclusion that emptying the drum into a bunch of 5 gallon buckets would be the more logical and easier thing to do. I was thinking of getting a siphon pump, but from what I've read online, it seems they're mostly useful for water, oil, or other low viscosity liquids.
Like I said, I don't want to spend over $50 doing this, and I also don't want to spend a lot of hours. I'm hoping to get it done in one afternoon.
The only thing that comes to mind is a lever-action barrel pump, but I don't think it's strong enough.
I live in Canada outside of Ottawa, I was thinking of asking a hazardous waste company to come and pick it up, but most of them don't offer the service for this kind of product, or they're charging me too much (over $150).
Any advice would help.
Thinking about removing the Trim on the door or cutting the granite
4.7 stars and 80+ reviews. They seemed very attentive and someone came to do a quote. They answered my followup questions. I read that they pay x amount of money when you request them even if you don't take the job. He said he'd take half up front, and the rest when the job is done. I went on their website and they have 3 google reviews. I'm just concerned they'll take the 900 and run.
I do mostly drywall patching, fence repair, and basic fixture swaps. Lately, I’ve had a ton of clients asking me to descale or fix their Rinnai and Navien tankless units. I usually pass on tankless water heater repair because the electronics seem finicky and I'm not a licensed plumber. Should I learn how to do this, or is the liability too high for a general handyman?
This is a labor-only job. They want a new door since the dog chewed up the inside. I was considering charging $600 and allocating a full day to the job, but I'm wondering it that's too low.
If you’re mounting a TV and find metal studs instead of wood, a regular drill bit isn’t always the easiest way to make the larger hole needed for a toggle anchor.
This is why I use a step drill bit.
A step bit starts small and gets progressively wider. Once you get through the metal, each “step” lets you gradually enlarge the hole instead of trying to push one large bit through thin sheet metal all at once.
That gives you more control over the final hole size, which matters because the opening needs to be large enough for your specific toggle anchor to pass through and engage properly.
What I used:
Drill/driver
Step drill bit
Stud finder
Level
Tape measure
Pencil
Toggle anchors rated for the application
TV mounting bracket
One thing I wouldn’t do is guess the hole size. Check the instructions for the specific toggle you’re using and stop the step bit at the required diameter. You also want to know what’s behind the wall before drilling.
Metal studs aren’t automatically a deal breaker. You just have to approach them differently than wood.
Anybody else use a step bit for metal studs, or do you have another method you prefer?
Hi! I recently bought a house and decided to dig into my bathroom fan to clean it and it was so gross with so much buildup and maybe insulation? Can someone please let me know what this is and if I need to do anything besides deep clean it?
Ok so I’m working on changing painted popcorn ceiling to knockdown. I started by using my drywall sander with 60 grit to knock it down. Found some spots that came off in small sheets then I decided it would be bettter to scrape it off. Now I’ve found some things I need guidance on. So the big piece of drywall I cannot scrape off the popcorn . And there’s also black stuff on it( I guess mold) there seems to be some water because it is discolored but it feels solid. Is my only option to cut out the entire piece.( it was previously repaired by home owner).
I’m not sure what these are called but the pieces weren’t labeled and I put this piece in wrong. There’s no screws or levers that I can see? If it’s just stuck like this I’ll make do but if there’s a way to fix it it would be much appreciated!
Main AC unit in my house is not running consistently and leaking water. It will sporadically turn on and the outdoor unit fan will run and the unit will run but we will get no air circulation throughout the house. It’s leaking water through a blue plug which is the picture that I attached. Actuslly I can’t add pictures so I’ll added it through a Imgur link in the comments.