I would love to find a source of cables with the Tekro ej1 connector on one side and the red julet 2-pin on the other side. I've talked to Tekro about it and they don't sell one. The OEM ones I've seen on bikes are supplied by the manufacturer apparently.
I'm just tired of soldering the ends on 😂.
Hi all,
Decided it was time to bridge a gap and make diagnosing E-bike issues, error codes etc a shed load easier. Gone are the days of having no mobile signal and trying to zoom in on a manufacturer service PDF on your phone.
I've developed a quick web tool to search 500+ e-bike error codes in plain English (covers Bosch Smart System & classic, Shimano EP8/Steps, Bafang, Brose, Yamaha/Giant, Mahle, etc).
It gives you the actual root cause, what to check with a multimeter (hall sensors, magnet gaps, pin voltages), and whether it’s a quick fix or needs dealer software. It also works offline once you load it so you can still use it out on the trail in dead zones.
Free to use here if it helps anyone out:
https://e-bikediagnosticbible.com
Continually adding to it weekly — if anyone spots any missing codes or weird glitch codes you’ve run into on your own bikes, let me know in the comments and I’ll get them added into the database!
If it doesn't fit in a stand and I can't disconnect the hub motor...I can't help you. I don't know what you bought, but it isn't something that was designed for a flat repair.
Call Jeff Bezos and see if he can help
That is all
Carbon frame, dropper won’t come out. The post turns in the frame, managed to get it to come up a few mm, but now won’t go up.
The post turns in the frame (whole post, upper and lower) but cannot get it to move up out the frame.
Any ideas?
I’m not the most business minded person, but I’m trying to pick up what I can since I need it in my new role. One thing I’ve found curious is how Wolf Tooth seem to have their business model down pat. They offer high quality US made components at reasonable prices, often with discounts, and are constantly releasing fresh new products. I just don’t get with how low their margins must be due to US production, they’re able to keep a steady growth in an industry that is soulcrushing hostile towards the grassroots brands. Am I crazy in thinking they’ve cracked the code to longevity?
Edit: I think some people are missing the point about most of the components being made in the US. When you compare their products to other domestic US manufacturers, their prices are always lower on components while maintaining a comparable quality.
I work at a high-volume location of a large bike shop chain. We see a ton of pinch flats, and all season I’m hunting for tiny black-on-black pressure markings on customers’ tires under varying lighting. Seems like making those easier to read would help customers and save mechanics some time.
There’s also the routine air top-up where the customer’s preferred pressure isn’t recorded, they don’t remember, or they have no preference. You choose a reasonable starting point, but a visible preferred setting—when they have one—could take some guesswork out of the next visit.
Owning several bikes made this more obvious to me. With one bike, I knew my pressures by heart. Switching bikes and swapping tires broke that familiarity. Getting older hasn’t helped with reading the lettering either.
So I made these with a $17 laser label printer and a regular three-hole punch. An X or + printed in the middle centers the punch. The pressure range is printed at both ends facing opposite directions, so it reads from either side of the wheel at the valve.
A factory serial-number/QR sticker on one of my carbon rims has survived years of riding and washing. That helped inspire this, although I’m still seeing how my own labels hold up.
A little USB-C rechargeable electric pump already made pressure checks easier for me: set the number, press a button, and it stops there. No pumping while watching a dial. The label removes the hunt for the numbers and gives me a visible reminder to check.
Basically a “2D bike part”—a sticker with a job. Print it for the installed setup after checking tire and rim limits, maybe add the customer’s preferred pressure separately, and replace it when things change. Fleet thinking for everyday bikes: keep the information with the equipment instead of relying on everyone’s memory.
Would you include this with a tire install or offer it for a buck? Would assembly, customer handoff, or a safety check be a better time? Anyone already doing it?
A sticker won’t solve skipped maintenance, but readable information seems like a small improvement we could make pretty easily.
This sub automatically rejects posts from people who haven't been active on the sub, or have been but not in a positive way. Upon request, we approve posts from newcomers, if they clearly fit the sub. Most clearly fit or clearly don't.
The ones I am least sure about are the ones trying to sell something to bike shops. If it's a tool inventor, we always approve them. Open-source software, good or bad, is also OK. But we also get lots of people hoping to sell software for shop management, probably vibe coded.
Should we go ahead and approve them and let the community downvote and otherwise skewer the bad ones? Or should we just reject them all?
What's your thought on 590 rims on 700c road frame (barely clear for 700x28 tires)? I've found affordable 590 rims, and despite the stupid expensive 584 rims on the current market.
edit: the frame used to run 584x38, no longer have those wheels
Hi,
I am an experienced builder, but there is always a first!
This time for me is : internal spoke nipples.
I have already serviced wheels with upside-down nipples (Enve…) but this time it is a clean sheet assembly. I am on the spoke length calculation step and I am wondering which NSD add-on I will add to the rim ERD.
The nipples are not decided yet, as the goal is to have the lightest wheel I have been asked for aluminium nipple. In that case I would chose the Sapim Upside-Down in 12mm
But I recomment brass nipple for corrosion prevention (it will be a carbon rim with tubeless tire and sealant, so corrosion will happen), so I adviced for a Sapim brass upside-down, 10mm should be sufficient.
In any case, it does not solve my issue : the NSD add-on. I do have the luck to have those nuts in stock so I cannot measure myself and ask for a help : what are the values you use, for which kind of nipple?