r/CarsAustralia

Cars are now not economically sustainable

I have worked in the motor industry for 15 years now. The cars that you can buy brand new today will never be reliable, second hand cars in the future.

Right now when you buy a new vehicle. You have no option but to have fitted,

- Automatic Braking. (Front camera or front radar)
- Lane departure steering and alerts. (Front camera)
- Speed alerts (Uses front camera)

Some cars even have,

- Eye monitoring sensors (Alert you when your eyes leave the road or wear sunglasses) Yes I’m not kidding.

- Blind spot detection sensors and alerts.

- Electric seats (Lucky only in the higher models for most manufactures)

- Electric park brakes

These are just some of the unnecessary systems that will cost the owner THOUSANDS, if they break. And they will.

After working in the industry, I can tell you that I will never buy a car with any of these systems. Because them being damaged or faulty is up to chance alone.

When these cars are 10 years old (some of them are getting there.) Most people will have no choice but to buy one of these money pits.

Here are some examples of these parts replacement if they fail.

Electric park brake switch - $500
Electric seat motor - $1500
Electric park brake motor - $4000
Blind spot detection sensors - $600 but maybe more depending on model
Front camera - $5000
Front Radar - $5000

If one of these is faulty or damaged, you will be unable to have a RWC until it is repaired. Fact.

Tell me how this is economically sustainable for lower earners.

Where are the cheaper, bare bones vehicles for drivers that only require the A to B transport?

Manufacturers need to get with the times and being back cars with actual value and reliability.

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u/unforeseenjiberish — 4 hours ago
▲ 29 r/CarsAustralia+1 crossposts

1992 Toyota Cressida - Okay as a first project car or am I dreaming?

TL;DR - title!

There's a 1992 Cressida up for sale nearby for $1200 reduced from $3000. It's been on FB marketplace for 30+ weeks and the ad says it's done a head gasket which I understand is common on these. Apparently it drove fine otherwise but of course you never know. It's also out of rego period.

I've never bought a project car. I've done plenty of basic jobs on my Subaru BRZ (mostly just servicing, new headers, and coilovers) and from what I've seen changing a head gasket on a straight engine doesn't look too bad (I also have mechanic friends I could call upon if need be). Part of me thinks I could get this for around $1k, buy the gasket set and ARP head studs for around $500, drive for a bit and sell it on as a learning opportunity and get to experience a 90s Toyota, maybe even turn a little profit, or keep it for longer if I end up liking it, JZ swap candidate down the line etc... I don't have any specific liking for these cars (they're kinda cool modified though, japanese low-rider-esque) but I have wanted a project car and this is one of the more accessible ($) ones I've seen recently.

What do you guys think? Would you take the gamble if you didn't really have a specific love for Cressida's?

Edit: Forgot to mention, the ad says it comes with a spare head so I would save on head reconditioning costs

u/KnowledgeCultivator — 7 hours ago

Car accident (not my fault) asking me to pay months later.

25F P plater here.

I had an accident months ago, if you can even call it that.

Car park. I was moving between the isles, had right of way and a driver coming in from the road honked at me while I was already in the strip.

Both cars stopped just shy of touching. My car has ABSOLUTELY NO DAMAGE. He demanded money on the spot... and when me a scared woman asked to call my brother... he stright up left, gave me the wrong insurance provider and then started demanding I pay for a replacement vehicle over text.

We had heard nothing for months... now he's claiming $2000 worth of damage through his insurance that doesnt match the photos he gave me on the day of the accident (after he fled) and is actually impossible based on the height of the damage. My car literally would have had to flip for this to happen.

My insurance have said that I cant make a claim because I have no damage on my car. Like AT ALL. My car is WHITE we would know.

Im a cancer remission patient and have appointments to pay for. My big 2nd year check is coming up and the stress has led to me dropping 3 kilos and vomiting. I don't know what to do.

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u/LifeRefrigerator4601 — 8 hours ago

Is there a new sedan you would buy in 2026 or 2026?

Ok - I am one of those people who love sedans and I bought a brand new Audi A6 Quattro in 2021. It is souped up - sports line, spoiler, fenders, black pack etc.

I really love it but it is just coming to 5 years old and I was wondering - is there really a brand new sedan that I would buy? And that got me thinking after going lots of websites - I don’t think there are any good sedans (I know subjective) coming out now as everything seems to be a variation of some SUV.

So my question is - which brand new model Sedan would you buy in 2026 and 2027 (perhaps coming soon)?

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u/Complex-Cancel-4453 — 10 hours ago

Scrap it or save it?

Hey everyone,

I’m the owner of a somewhat rare car in Australia. It’s a CH9 Accord Si-R that was long ago brought to Australia under the personal import scheme. It has been my daily driver since 2019, bought with 160,000km on it, now with 212,000km. It‘s approaching the stage where fairly soon it will need some really significant investment in maintenance to keep it on the road, and I’m debating whether to commit the money to keeping it alive or whether I should scrap it and buy a replacement daily driver. I can‘t in good conscience sell it as is (has a major game breaking issue, will go into more detail later in the post) and I already have a project/weekend car. It does have some modifications that make it somewhat unique even as far as CH9s go. It has a manual T2T4 box from a CF4 Accord (all CH9s were automatic from the factory), Recaro seats from an EP3 Type R, but retains the original H23A VTEC engine. The driveshafts to my knowledge are from a CL1 Euro R. The interior has been fitted with CL1 Euro R trim pieces, so the door cards and some of the dash have carbon fibre patterned inserts rather than the original woodgrain. I’ve installed a set of Tein Flex Z coilovers in it as they’re pretty much the only thing available on the market for the wagon and the previous coilovers in it were flogged and too firm for roads in Australia.

In terms of mechanical stuff, it needs the following:

- Replacement passenger side driveshaft - it has split both CV boots (apparently a common problem with the CL1) and while it’s not clicking yet, they’ve been split for too long to chuck some new boots on and call it a day. Can get a used replacement driveshaft from Japan for probably about $600.

- The AC died fairly recently and the climate control simply won’t power it on. I can manually power the compressor on and get the clutch to engage by removing the compressor relay and shorting the contact pins, so it seems like the compressor itself hasn’t failed - my presumption is that the AC system has a leak and has triggered a low refrigerant sensor that prevents the climate control unit from commanding the AC on. I don’t have the kit necessary to test system pressure however, so I’m not sure. Either way, I’m thinking I won’t come out much short of $1500 if it turns out that I have to replace the compressor, condenser, or evaporator.

- Timing belt - it’s approaching the due mileage and needs a timing belt, tensioner, and balance shaft belt as they‘re not shared on the H23A VTEC. I can get an aftermarket belt and tensioner kit for about $300 all up. Usually I would replace the water pump concurrently, that’s another $300 for a genuine pump from Honda.

- Rear brake rotors and pads - $700ish all up from RHDJapan.

- Possibly a clutch - it’s not slipping at all and still feels good but I haven’t had the clutch replaced in my ownership and it’s beyond 60,000km that I’ve driven on this clutch with who knows how much mileage was already on it when I bought the car. Clutch will likely be about $1000.

- Some other miscellaneous odds and ends, spark leads, replacement intake tube from manifold to air box, fuel filter, etc.

Now if the car were in perfect shape otherwise, I would have no issue shelling out for the above. I have the facilities to do all the work except for air con stuff, so labour cost isn’t too much of a concern. But the car has some pretty severe rust in the unibody at the very top of the hatch. I’ve attached a picture for reference but it’s pretty gnarly. I believe it’s some poor repair work from the past as there are hints of overspray on the rubber grommets and window washer hose. It’s quite possible that it’s previously had rust in it necessitating the repair work as the design of the car itself seems a little flawed - the panel gap between the roof and hatch is massive and allows debris and leaf litter to collect which retains moisture if there’s been any rain at all. It’s actually that bad now that there are some holes starting to open up allowing moisture to get in between the layers of the roof. I’ve had someone who does some pretty involved restoration work have a look at it and he believes it’s fixable, but I would be looking at around 5k or 6k at a very minimum to get the rust cut out, new metal welded in, and paint. The difficulty is also exacerbated by the fact that it‘s eating all the metal away around the hinges (I guess this would be structural rust).

Anyway, I’ve typed up a bit of a wall of text, so the gist of it all is - would you bother putting in the investment to get this car up to scratch, or would you drive it into the ground and scrap it? If I get rid of it, I’m planning on replacing it with an IS F eventually. Keep in mind I’m probably looking at about $12k to $15k minimum to work the major kinks out of it and get it respectable again, which would probably be approximately how much it’s worth on a good day in good condition. Thanks everyone, keen to know your opinions.

EDIT: Fixed some grammar, typed it on a phone and missed some stuff.

u/ChronicLoser — 7 hours ago

Honda Super-One a hit

Seems like there have been a lot of naysayers predicting that Honda’s new baby EV would be a dud, destined to clog showrooms like the unloved Mazda MX-30 did.

It might have only bet on 150 units, but those 150 disappeared within hours, with a claimed 7,000 expressions of interest on the books.

Small and cool, known brand, not a cookie-cutter SUV… these are the elements that pushed it along IMO, not dollar-for-dollar comparos with the new crop of cheap EVs that have flooded the market.

Not sure if Honda is willing or able to take advantage, though. The 2020 E was an expensive flop, and - as it’s done numerous times in its history - Honda again folded like a cheap suit, winding back its future EV spend after blowing through billions.

It’s interesting that companies like Honda and Nissan never went on with promising early works; Honda made its first commercial EV way back in ‘99, while Nissan should have absolutely bunged the Leaf powertrain into any and every sub-large line it had on the books.

I’m not an EV acolyte or anything… just found it interesting that people were so willing to write the Super One off out of the gate.

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u/Fabulous-Signature-3 — 13 hours ago

Anyone own a Mazda Familiar

It was my high school car crush 20 years ago. I wish I bite the bullet and bought one. Anyone seen them for sale or is it inport only now?

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u/Spritney__Beers — 15 hours ago

Got tired of spotting the millionth pillock in a G80 or AMG so I went local nug hunting.

Favourites gotta go to the NF Fairlane Ghia, 205 and EF. The Civic is all original but rough on the outside and had an uber clean interior, as for the 205...when did you even last see them on the roads? Let alone an Si and not a GTi.

Also, 5.0L NF Fairlane Ghia in maroon? Now you know that the Robisons were well off...

u/2k_tan — 1 day ago

Mazda 6 or Toyota c-hr

UPDATE: the C-HR got sold to some one els so guess I'm getting the mazda 😀

Looking at a mazda 6 wagon and a Toyota c-hr tomorrow

The mazda 2016 85,592 km red wagon $20,880

The toyota 2017 81,595 yellow small suv $19,990

The mazda seems great in every way except leather seats wich i dont like. its got bigger boot space

The toyota just looks so damn cool!

Still decent boot space bit smaller

Slightly less km and and slightly newer

I dont have family or regular passengers to worry about

Both are petrol and auto transmission

Think its a case of heads telling me mazda hearts telling me toyota

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u/akerz90 — 15 hours ago

Financing a car at 19

Hey everyone, 19 year old QLD resident here. I’m looking for advice about financing a car. I know it’s a huge decision to be making as a 19 year old, but I don’t really have any adults in my life to have this conversation with so here I am.

My current car is a lovely little shitbox that is unfortunately kicking the bucket. I can’t go without a car as I drive for work and work with livestock/on a farm (EDIT: Need to be able to tow). Tale as old as time I’m sure but I’m wanting something newer and more reliable so I don’t pour all my money into a death trap again. I’ve been looking at options to finance for the past few months and have found a few options around the 30-35k mark that I am interested in viewing. I would be getting a loan out to make the purchase.

So the question: is that a completely fucked idea?

I make 80k p.a. currently and am on track to have a raise mid-next year to 90k-100k. I live a reserved life and am lucky to not pay a huge amount of rent so am able to save most of my salary. I’m incredibly precious with my money and 30-35k for a loan seems outlandish to me. I know I can comfortably pay it back, but the anxious part of me is thinking about something going wrong. I’m just not sure.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers everyone 🙏🏼

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Inspired by the other Excel post here are two that live very close to each other.

The white one clearly races, has a cage etc.

The yellow has a plate that has to be worth millions.

u/Sartorialalmond — 1 day ago
▲ 0 r/CarsAustralia+1 crossposts

Talk me out of buying a 450,000km petrol 80 Series (I've already emotionally committed)

Found a 1995 80 Series GXL, 5-speed manual, 1FZ-FE on dual fuel. Full service history from new, mostly Toyota stamps. ARB rear air lockers and compressor with the original install receipts from 1998. Dual batteries just done, UHF, immobiliser, even Apple CarPlay wedged into a 30-year-old dash. Clear coat peeling on the bonnet and roof like every 80 ever made.

[$13,000 asking, 440,000 km]

Use case: weekend rig only, I've got a daily. Mostly Gippsland trips — Walhalla tracks, Phillip Island runs, maybe some High Country eventually. I like big manuals and I want something that won't leave me on the side of the Princes.

I've also been looking at GU Patrols — a 2.8, a ZD30, and a TB45 — and every single one has either a famously fragile engine or an ad that reads like "all new head, radiator, hoses" (so… it cooked itself, right?).

The 1FZ at 450k with history feels like the safe pick, but part of me says 18-20L/100km of petrol is going to hurt even at weekend kms, LPG stations are disappearing in regional Vic, and 450k is still 450k.

So — anyone daily'd or toured a high-km 1FZ? Is the fuel bill as bad as the calculators say? And Patrol blokes, this is your chance: convince me the barn door is worth it.

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Guess what I saw.... Very special

I was so excited. When I saw this special car.. OG Excel driven by a P platter as it should be.

Also what looks to be in mint condition too, no dents and even paint was in good condition too.

Beat that Aston valhalla spotter.

PS - stand still traffic. So no road rules were broken taking this picture.

u/WarbirdRacer — 1 day ago