

Looking for advice on how to fill these areas around strike plates
What would be the best way to mitigate these spaces around my strike plates. I hung a new door, and the strike plates for the hardware I used are smaller than what was replaced.


What would be the best way to mitigate these spaces around my strike plates. I hung a new door, and the strike plates for the hardware I used are smaller than what was replaced.
This is the toilet bowl, the wind blew something over and cracked it. I’m guessing it can’t be used, is there anything I can do?
Hardware is loose, don’t see anything to tighten. Anyone seen this one?
My old house had a shower /tub combo but the new house has separate shower and I’m concerned about this glass panel. If I bump into it it feels like it could easily fall off. I’ve never had this kind of shower before. Is this type of mount normal where the glass is only held on by 3 corners?
Has anyone reinforced their shower glass by attaching it to the ceiling ? That would make me feel a lot better about bumping into it.
I’m currently replacing a couple of doors in my 1950s house and I’m replacing them with these hollow core doors, the closest measurement I could get to the existing door was 30”x80” and the existing door measures 30”x 77 5/8” my question is is this too much to take off? I know it will void whatever with the door but I don’t want to replace them with slab doors and pay double for it. Any tips? If you need any more info just ask, I’m trying to do this right lol
I live in south Florida and it's Mango season, but all the mangoes you can reach are usually gone when walking around the neighborhood.
They tend to hang over the public sidewalks and roads.
So I invented this and it's extendable. They use the pole to wash RVs. It worked pretty well the first time trying it!
I used a old fishing net, extendable pole from homedepot, and a gardening tool. You just place the tool right over the fruit you want and pull down. In one day we got all of this for free! 🥭
There are some stains on my wall (newly painted about 4 months ago) and I touched it up with roller brush using the same paint the contractor left behind.
It has been 30 hours since and it still looks wet. I am in perth and the temperature these few days range between 10 to 18deg outside and a bit rainy.
Is this normal? Do I have to worry?
I’m in Philly. Looking to unload some construction debris. Not much, but I need to unload a bunch of busted up kitchen, ceramic tile and cement board that it was installed on. It is all bagged up.
Willing to pay someone to come get it or the cheapest place around that I can take it to myself.
I’ve been looking for adapters to make my portable washer fit the bathroom faucet and I’m beyond lost. I’ve tried to explain in the diagram what I’ve bought that has potential so far - any ideas how to get this all connected? Thanks!
Hi I messed up big time. I needed to touch up my wall yesterday but saw the word “whisper white” on my paint cans and just used it without giving it much thought thinking all whisper white are the same. I used the can saying indoor skirting (in the picture) on my wall instead of the ecotint whisper white (the other one in the picture) . I assumed this is what cauzed the shiny spots on my wall? It has been 30 hours since. Is it ok if i used use the correct “wall” whisper white to paint over now? Will it look ok? Thanks very much.
We installed beadboard to cover up damaged plaster on our stairs. This was the best cut we could achieve. Now what do we do to achieve a finished look?
Edit: CLEARLY this is our first attempt doing anything like this so refrain from getting an ego boost with a snarky comment. Go yell at your kids or kick a rock instead. If you have a helpful idea, please share.
My parents garrage door spring broke and we are trying to figure out what size spring we need to purchase to fix it. Anyone here know enough about these things to tell what size we need to buy?
Just an addition, I'm well aware how dangerous these things can be so we are just buying the spring to avoid the upcharge and just need to pay for labor.
Every time I use these plastic wall plugs, the screws eventually become loose and they fall out (ripping out the dry wall).
When I get my handy brother around, he has used metal ones which seem to hold without issue.
Am I doing something wrong or should I stick to using the metal wall plugs?
It looks like I'm not drilling the screw in enough for the plastic anchor to 'separate' and grab onto the inside of the plasterboard.
Spent a couple hours putting together a cheap island for the kitchen a few months ago. The top is already showing signs of water intrusion to the particle board under the (plastic?) top covering.
Do I sand/coat with poly or tape the edge and pour a layer of resin? Is there a third option im not thinking of?
Thoughts on what you are seeing here? I can tell in certain light that someone recently fixed it and painted over it, so it appears to be a recurring issue. It is on the first floor of a 2-story. No recent rain. No apparent water leak upstairs.
Reposting this with some close up photos.
Ten year old deck, but the boards are very dry, chipped, etc. Would like to get a few more years out before replacing it. Was planning to soft-wash and stain, however one contractor I spoke with mentioned I should sand in-between. Is it worth the money/time to sand a deck this shot? Thanks.
Ok guys I messed up. I hired a local fly-by-night shed builder to build a 10x12 shed. My girlfriend has chemical sensitivity so I asked for a double layer of cedar on the exterior instead of cedar over plywood. GF wanted something with all wood and no glues so I asked for this without really thinking. Only after the build was complete did the term "shear wall" emerge from somewhere deep in my memory bank. Did a little bit of Googling and realized the error.
The interior siding was not a part of the shed package so the interior studs are still exposed. We will do the inerior siding later on our own.
The question - is there a way to create a shear wall by adding interior cross bracing of some sort? If so, what is the methodology? We could of course add plywood to the inside, but that solution is not ideal for the stated reasons. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey all. A few years back we hired a company to redo the siding of our house. We only found out about. A year or two later that they did a terrible job with it and did it incorrectly. They installed everything poorly and now when it gets hot we have this bottom piece always pop off the track and curl up.
We had. Ahandyman come out before and try to fix it with no luck.
Any idea what, if anything, we can do to get this fixed so it stops happening.
Hello all, Im needing some advice on where to place the curtain rod on these windowsills. I also plan to put curtains on the big sliding door. Tired of looking ugly with the blankets covering the sliding door lol.