Isso é normal ? Chitubox mostra um valor em tempo mas na impressora é outro, quase o dobro de tempo. O que pode ser isso?

I mean the defying gravity part. There's nothing sticky there?

I bought an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro a few years back, and it unfortunately never worked. I followed the instructions to a T. I followed every troubleshooting guide, even to problems that had nothing to do with what I was dealing with, also to a T. And any time I would ask users how to get it to work, it would be the exact same things in those troubleshooting guides. And anytime I told them that didn't work, they would just respond confused as if it should have. That back and forth happened so much, and so identically, that I nearly destroyed the thing with a baseball bat. It has been sitting in storage for years ever since. I've since used a friend's "hard to work" printer by a different brand, and it printed in 3d! something my "easy to use" and "good choice for beginners" one has never been capable of- while I'm tempted to dig it out and commit the insanity of following its instructions. I was hoping to first get an explanation as to, even on a theoretical level, what specifically is supposed to work, where mine doesn't:

How does the printing object on other people's machine, actually go up? Why specifically, is gravity being ignored for those objects- allowing them to just follow this top plate (which doesn't stick to it in any way) up? What (is meant to) cause this phenomenon?

Sorry if the answer is technical or hard to explain- and thank you guys in advance!

Alright folks. New to printing and I’m in the process of setting up an elegoo mars 5 ultra and I have a few questions.

I’m using wargamer resin and I’ve set my initial parameters in Chitubox as per their baseline idiot proof settings and I’m proceeding to try and dial things in with the photonsters validation matrix. Few questions.

1. The printer comes with a calibration option that lets me do multiple exposure tests on the same build plate, however the default model size for the test piece is quite large and I can’t fit multiple copies on the plate without reducing the model size. Does reducing the size affect the testing and should I avoid it? How does one use this piece for multi testing.

2. Chitubox has advanced options for anti aliasing/greyscale/blur. Should I keep these switched off for this calibration test? Furthermore, what is a basic setting I should be using for the greyscale bar and blur in the future.

3. What are your opinions on the suggested idiot proof settings, specifically the exposure time. Obviously I’m trying to dial things in but having an idea of what other people using this printer and resin combo have found works well would be handy.

Regarding settings, I’m aiming to print small parts for warhammer minis rather than large pieces if that changes anything. For my purposes do I really need to worry about shooting for smaller layer heights or will 0.05 be good?

Thanks.

Printer and resin (Resione TH72) was sitting for about a year in my closet. Tried a couple calibration prints and both tests weren't curing. Did a vat clean to test and thought the light emitting might be a little dim? I've printed with Elegoo ABS like that's much older than this resin and printed fine after a good shake. This TH72 is the only bottle i have right now.

I'm hoping to get a second opinion to see if the lcd light looks a little dim to anyone else or maybe I'm just dealing with expired resin..

Using a replacement PSU but is 240v 3A

Version 4.5.0_1.0

System ELD-3.0.1

I'm struggling for a long time with these lil surface bubbles. The LCD screen is new, and also the FEP film.

I letting the resin stand by for circa 45min after shaking and pouring it into the VAT. I don't know what else to do :/ Please help me

I'm using an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro; Anycubic/Elegoo Water-Washable resin.

So, I discovered the hard way at my 3rd print that the machine, as a matter of fact, does NOT stop at a point, I was lifting the level to the maximum to be able to check my resin and it just broke off this part.

It's incredibly painful to me, it's an eyesore and I'm wondering if there is any way to change the piece. Like... I really hope I'm not the first one making this rookie mistake.

( Mars 4 ultra )

Had some problems with the protective glass on top of the lcd cracking.

Replaced the protective glass. Prints still bad.

Noticed this uneven light.

Thought it might be the protective replacement glass. So removed it. Still looks like this.

The patterns and such is fine from the lcd. However a bit conserned about this uneven light.

Can it be used as is? Can I somehow fix this? Or is my screen to damaged for repair?

Thank you, for your time

This started on a model I previously printed. I've replaced the fep film, the screen protector, checked for dead pixels, looked at the supports in both lychee slicer and uv tools, lots of Google searches, can't figure it out. I've printed this previously, added some bolts detail to the back of this model then this happened. Nothing else on thus model changed. I used Lychee slicer, Unlucky abs like resin. I'm currently doing a test print of a different model.

Hi Folks, my printer (Mars 4 MAX) was stood for a while without use. Finally I got back to it just to find out I have these dead spots on my screen. Vat tank doesn't leak, and screen is dry and clean. I managed to print my project by avoiding this quarter of the screen.

Please let me know what caused this problem? And I assume it is subject for a screen replacement?

I purchased a mars 4 recently and accidentally had a bunch of abs like resin cure on the screen. Is there any way to get the resin off without damaging the screen?

Just following up on my post from a day ago, looks like I've got dead pixels. Ran it 4 times to make sure. Unfortunately just past the warranty period. Thanks to all that responded and gave advice.

Hi folks, I've got an OG Elegoo mars and I'm using Elegoo ABS-like resin 3.0 - I'm clicking in chitubox and manually supporting layer by layer to make sure I don't get any islands.

I have tried to print this girder bridge 3 times now and it always ends up warped or bent.

any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong here?

I changed my screen protector, walked out for a minutes to grab some water, came back and these bubbles were there. Why does this happen, temperature difference between where they were to the printer is? Gremlins? It was totally bubbles free when I put it on.