Someone asked before about quality of life upgrades, and when looking at the replies someone linked some interior lights, got them and it's been amazing. Though it's also made me notice the puddle lights are.. pitiful. Anyone located any good puddle light projectors? I've seen BRZ ones that look great (in picture) that people have found from Amazon.. the only GR/GR86 logo ones I've found are from some puddlelight website for +$80 USD.

I'm trying to find some good puddle light projectors that just say GR86, $80 seems steep
Image for reference

Disclaimer: I’m not a mechanic, just a guy who Googles things and then visits my local Subaru shop.

I’ll start with the conclusion. I love it and it’s great for my specific scenario. I wish I had done it earlier. Ymmv based on what you’re looking for and what you prefer. More details below and happy to take questions. I know there’s plenty of other folks who have done it already but figured I’d share anyways.

WHAT: it’s a LSD from the facelift brz that has a 4.3 final drive ratio. I bought mine from a salvage yard for about $560 before tax and shipping. I also got the KDT925 differential bushing inserts (might as well).

HOW: paid a shop, it’s a direct swap and they did new seals, fluid, and inserts at the same time.

WHY: I’m a Miata guy at heart and I wanted more responsiveness. I also still have CPO warranty so I didn’t want to do headers or a tune yet. My daily commute is a lot of stop and go with inclines and I live in the city so more torque is more good.

So what’s it like?
The awesome part is that it makes the car feel more eager in every single gear. Sure I’m shifting more, but that’s the fun part for me. My gas mileage results are interesting - I’m up from 22.4 mpg average to 22.7 mpg average. This is likely very specific to my commute, as I’m now able to spend more time consistently in 2nd gear and less time bouncing between the higher end of 1st and the lower end of 2nd. Cruising is where I take the hit the most because I’m at a higher RPM but I don’t mind.

The bushing inserts increased NVH slightly. I can feel a gentle vibration in the shifter if I think about it and a bit in the steering wheel at a stop. I now hear a small amount of (what I assume is) gear whine at low speeds. It firms up the shifting feel which is great and there’s less bucking during shifting, especially if I downshift awkwardly or am doing some low speed maneuvers in parking garages.

TL;DR: I installed the GReddy oil pan baffle plate specifically to address FA24 oil starvation. I then logged 12 track laps with a real oil pressure sensor. It did not fix it. Worst reading was 1.79 bar (26 psi) at 5300 rpm, and 100% of my sub-2.5 bar events happened in right-hand corners. If you are buying this part expecting protection, please read this first.

I see the GReddy baffle plate recommended constantly as the budget answer to the FA24 oiling problem. I bought into that. I want to put actual numbers out there so the next person can make a better decision than I did.

Setup and conditions

• 2025 GR86 (ZN8), JDM import, FA24, 6MT
• Oil: 5W-30, fresh,

overfilled 0.5 L

• GReddy oil pan baffle plate installed (PN 13515903)
• Stock oil pan, stock pickup, no oil cooler
• Speedway — 1.9 km, mixed direction, several long right-handers, 12 laps, ambient warm
• Logging: Ansix CANbus kit + OBDLink CX into RaceChrono, real oil pressure sensor on the CAN bus (not the idiot light, not an OBD-II PID estimate)

Establishing a healthy baseline first

Before claiming anything is wrong, I filtered for hot oil, throttle >20%, and lateral G under 0.3 to get a clean "what should this engine make" number:

RPM |Median oil pressure
4500–5000 |4.97 bar (72 psi)
5000–5500 |4.90 bar (71 psi)
5500–6000 |4.97 bar (72 psi)
6000–6500 |4.90 bar (71 psi)
6500–7000 |5.10 bar (74 psi)
7000–7500 |5.24 bar (76 psi) So the pump and the engine are healthy. Flat, strong, ~5 bar across the whole usable range. Whatever goes wrong is a pickup/slosh problem, not a mechanical one.

The actual result

I sorted every sample above 3000 rpm by corner direction. I verified the sign convention independently by computing signed path curvature from GPS and correlating it against the CAN lateral accelerometer (r = 0.87), so this is not me guessing which way is which.

Condition |Median |5th percentile |Minimum |% of samples >1 bar below baseline
Right-hand, >0.6g |4.69 bar |3.10 bar |1.79 bar (26 psi) |19.8%
Left-hand, >0.6g |5.10 bar |4.21 bar |2.76 bar |1.6%
Straight / low-G |4.97 bar |3.86 bar |2.62 bar |2.4% Threshold breakdown above 3500 rpm:

• Below 3.0 bar (44 psi): 94% occurred in right-handers
• Below 2.5 bar (36 psi): 100% in right-handers
• Below 2.0 bar (29 psi): 100% in right-handers

That asymmetry is the FA24 signature everyone has been documenting for years. The baffle plate did not remove it.

It is not sensor noise, and it is not heat

Two things people will reasonably ask, so I checked both.

Noise: noise does not care which way you are turning. A 20:1 ratio between right and left cannot come from a flaky sensor. And it is not a single-spike artifact either — on lap 9 I spent 2.5 continuous seconds loaded at −0.9 to −1.5 g and pressure sawtoothed 5.1 → 2.7 → 5.1 → 3.0 → 3.2 → 3.7 bar. That is the pan repeatedly uncovering and re-covering the pickup.

Heat: the worst events happened at 113–120°C oil temp. My clean 4.9–5.2 bar baseline samples were taken at the same temperatures. Coolant never went past 94°C. Hot thin oil is not the explanation here.

It got worse as the session went on

Percentage of samples running more than 1 bar below expected pressure, per lap:

• Lap 1: 2.5%
• Lap 3: 5.2%
• Lap 9: 9.6%
• Lap 10: 18.6%
• Lap 12: 11.1%

My fastest lap was also one of the three worst laps for oil pressure. That is the trap with this platform — the better you drive, the more you hurt it.

Important caveat that makes this worse, not better

My oil pressure channel logged at 7.2 Hz (roughly one sample every 120 ms). Out of 232 discrete low-pressure events, 158 were a single sample. That means the true minima are almost certainly lower than what I recorded — I am sampling too slowly to catch the bottom of these dips. 1.79 bar is my floor, not necessarily the engine's floor.

I am raising the logging rate before the next session and will post an update.

Why I think it can't work

The baffle plate addresses oil movement inside the pan. But on a flat-four a large amount of oil ends up parked in the heads and the timing cover under sustained lateral load, and no plate in the sump can pull it back. Verus have publicly said their own first attempt was a baffle system and it didn't do what they expected, which is exactly why they ended up designing a whole new pan. Killer B's plate showed the same thing in independent track testing years ago. My data is just one more confirmation of a pattern.

To be fair to GReddy: their marketing talks mostly about oil migrating into the timing chain cover under braking G. It's possible the plate does something there. What it clearly does not do is protect you through sustained high-lateral right-hand corners, which is the failure mode that actually kills these engines.

Full track setup, for context

Nothing exotic, and nothing that should stress the oiling system beyond what any tracked GR86 sees. If anything the grip level is what makes the problem visible — I'm pulling around 1.5 g peak lateral.

Engine / breathing

1. Tomei Expreme UEL header Ver.2
2. Custom catless front pipe with dual resonators
3. HKS Spec-L II catback
4. GR Performance intake
5. EcuTek tune (three maps: stock / track / pop-bang)

Chassis

1. H&R lowering springs
2. Camber bolts (SPC 81260) — alignment currently −1.3°/−1.4° front, −1.1° rear
3. APEX ARC-8 17x9 ET42 with Yokohama A052 245/40R17

Oiling (current)

• 5W-30, stock pan, stock pickup, GReddy baffle plate, no oil cooler

Logging

• Ansix CANbus kit + OBDLink CX + RaceChrono

What I'm doing next

The baffle plate is staying in — it's not hurting anything — but I'm treating it as a placebo, not a solution.

I'm going with the Formula Delta oil pan. Increased capacity plus proper integrated baffling is the only approach that actually attacks where the oil goes on this engine, rather than trying to manage it after it's already gone. Verus's pan is the other serious option and I looked hard at it, but Delta works out better for me on cost and shipping from Cyprus.

In the meantime I'm running a slight overfill and I'm not going to attack the long right-handers at Achna at full commitment.

If you track a 2022+ GR86/BRZ: please buy a real oil pressure sensor before you buy any "fix." You cannot evaluate a solution you can't measure, and the factory gauge will tell you absolutely nothing until it's already too late.

Happy to share the raw session file with anyone who wants to run their own analysis on it.

Hey group! I have these GR86 keychains for sale if anyone is interested. They are 3-inch double-sided acrylic. The wheels do have the OEM design, I just need to update the pictures with better lighting :) Here is the link!

https://tracekeysusa.com/products/gr86-keychain

It looks great on this blue BRZ (maybe cause the angle or on a darker car) but on the white car it doesn’t look good. I messaged the owner on the thread but never answered. Was hoping someone else with a BRZ with a xeno lip installed has more pictures.

Got dirty 20 minutes later 😂

How do you know if any of these are beginning to go out? I recently got out of the car after driving for a few mins and turned it off as usual. When I started it again, I noticed a loud rattle, louder than the
A/C rattle that would also switch on at about the same time. I pressed in the clutch and I haven’t heard it again.

On that same drive, I noticed that getting off a stop light, the car would hesitate for a second and then start moving. I have a feeling it could be the throw out bearing since I heard that many people have had issues with it going out, but I’ve also learned on this clutch as it is my first manual, so it could be the clutch as well. I’m soon to swap out my transmission fluid since it’s a M/T.

But if that’s going out, should I replace either or, or both at the same time?

Ofc car mechanic at work :)

You bastards, you did it. You made me FOMO. You made me want to do it.

I put in the STi V bars and the noise is actually better now. Some kinda persistent "rrrrrrrrrrr" humming has disappeared. It was mostly obvious above 20km/h.

Thank you, poorsche-bros.

Loved the car so much but a bunch of things came up so I couldn’t really afford it anymore without working a bunch of overtime + other reasons why it didn’t suit my life :’)

Atleast now I have the closest thing to a GR Yaris that Canada will see til 2035!

Btw whoever purchased this 86 from the Abbotsford Hyundai - pls know I took such great care of her and I hope you’re enjoying it as much as I did!!! c:

Stock brz on lowering springs with a tomei exhaust. It was a fun year of ownership but need to make way for other projects.

I am ready to join the gang and need advice with buying this 2022 GR86 Premium in Bulgaria for €17,200 ($18,600). EU-spec second hand models here go for $30-40K, but this one is cheaper because it's a US import with a salvage title from rear-end damage, plus higher mileage at 67,850 miles (109,200 km). The importer was transparent about the costs, repaired it with OEM parts, everything looks perfectly fine now with no airbags or structural damage. I saw all the carfax photos and the damage was strictly to the rear bumper/trunk area.

Financially, it's very low risk for me. I love the car and this price is insanely low.

My main questions are: do you think there is a risk with the car being a fixed salvage title and is the mileage too high for the period? Thanks!!

Ps. The seller has had a couple of brzs, 86s and a supra mk4. He knows his way around and that's why the fix seems good too.

Subframe work has been complete! Now all that needs to be done is get the bushings knocked out and painted. Hopefully it can be thrown in soon if the bushings don’t give me a hard time.

Hi Supra fans,

I made a nationwide map of all the available GR Supras on dealer lots in all its trims, that updated regularly from the Toyota site.

I've been running these maps for the Civic Type R and Integra Type S communities and we've all found it incredibly useful in tracking down cars, calling dealers and ultimately getting the best price.

Hopefully this is still useful given Supra production is winding down. Best of luck on your search if you're looking!

https://motoringobsession.com/stock/gr-supra

My '24 GR86. Paint matched Anointed Aero fenders, skirts, and fender fins, and with some Advan TC4s in 18x9.5+45 in Hyper Black, and a 25mm hubcentric spacer on each corner, BC Racing DS series coilovers w/ Swift upgrade. APR front aero dam, yellow tinted DRLs, GR rain guards, Valenti Jewel taillights, Tom's barrel sound axleback and Tom's rear valance, stock midpipe, JDL dual resonated and catless FP, JDL OP, JDL ceramic heat coated catless UEL header, GR intake. Tom's ebrake handle, Billetworkz short shifter w/ silver reverse lockout, Billetworkz hybrid shift knob in silver and leather, ebay silver onlays for hvac controls.

Mostly done for now! Wanna do Voltex or Kazama Auto hood at some point. Also have a set of Tom's style knockoff bumper garnishes I need to paint gloss black and put on at some point. 2 years has gone by fast with this car.. crazy how time flies.

Gold ft Yuna

Just slapped on 245/35/18’s on 18x9 +40 RS05-RR’s, being AD09’s I was hoping they’d run a little wider. What do we think, chuck in another degree of camber and size up to 255/35/18’s or leave it as it is?

I do have RLCA’s and coils so I’ve got a bit of adjustment to play with suspension wise.