I know this is a strange question, but would someone in the DMV like to take this hide off my hands? I just killed this deer and I'd hate to waste the hide. Let me know in the next couple hours and we can find a place to meet. All I ask is that you post pictures of the final product and let me know. 😉
I’ve been getting geared up to work some bull elk hides. I decided to make a heavy duty version of the lawn edger I see people modifying.
I used a pick handle, and cut and shaped the working end out of some old discarded 5/16” 316 stainless steel. The edge is beveled to about 3/32” thick. Modified the handle to fit the material, drilled, epoxied, and pinned it with 0.20” copper wire. Can’t wait to put it to work!
Hello,
I’m working on my first full elk hide. Hide was brought home and frozen same day of hunt. Once I had time to work on it, got everything fleshed as best as possible. No large meat or fat chunks remained. There were some small bits of membranes/small fat(?) bits that even with the best technique I could muster would only come off in 1-2 square inch pieces. I read somewhere that this was sufficient for fleshing.
Went to salt it and it’s been about 36 hours with another reapplication of salt at 24hrs. It’s still smelly pretty elk-y and somewhat sour in my garage. I’m concerned I didn’t flesh completely enough. Is it possible to rehydrate and go back at fleshing again?
Any advice is appreciated as this is my first hide I’ve tried working on.
TLDR: can you go back and reflesh after salting.
my dog passed away and I wanted to save the coat. i put it in a salt and citric acid solution. today I worked on fleshing and some of the fur is slipping.
i stopped, rinsed the coat off. trying to save as much as I can.
the fleshing is rough. lots of flesh left. just need advice on what to do to pause what I’m doing and come back at a later day.
not a lot of freezer space. I thought salt but id like some solid advice from folks with experience.
please help.
I’m not sure this is the right spot for this but I think y’all would know best. I got this at an estate sale, it was in a bag labeled 1980’s custom. I want to see if it is A.) easy to clean the stains, I think they may be old dog pee. B.) Worth anything and C.) more about the makers mark. The only thing that came up was an Alpaca skin rug for what seemed like way too much money. It’s also big, about 8’ by 4.5’
I have access to at least two deer hides that I would like to try tanning on. My end goal would be to use the material to make “chopper” style winter mittens.
It seems that the different methods of tanning result in slightly different final products. What gives the best balance of soft material that can withstand getting wet in the snow?
Hey guys, this is my first attempt at bark tanning. I’ve had these two deer hides together in the bark liquor for a month now. I’m on my second batch of bark. I have a full size stainless beer keg full to the top with chopped up white/red oak bark.The first batch I boiled three separate liquors out of and replaced the bark liquor each time. I’m now on the second batch of bark and about to switch out the first boil for the second boil. The first bark liquor picture show how it looks when I first put it in and the 2nd shows what it looks like when I’ve been replacing it. In these last few changes of bark liquor it has started to smell a bit funky but not altogether rotten and not worsening and goes away when I remove and put in the fresh bark liquor. Does this look about right for a month of bark tanning, should I be waiting longer to change out the solution. I’ve also seen some people just add the stronger liquor to the weaker stuff. What would be the best option to maximize use of the bark I have? I’ve got about two more boils left in the current batch and have been gathering fresh fallen acorn caps in case I need them when I run out of bark. How many times do you usually have to change the bark liquor on larger hides? Do these hides look right for a month of bark tanning?