r/IndianFTR1200

Hi, i have a 2022 rally and I was wondering what would be the best way to lower it. I know it is taller than the base model at 32 in. Realistically, I'd need it to be at like 30 in to comfortably ride it without being in a super awkward position( I'm 5'3 for reference). What would be the best way to do it? Is there a lowering kit that can achieve this? Can the suspension lower? (I'm also skinny, so lowering the suspension if possible shouldn't be too affected by my weight)

I seem to be having a lot of issues with my '22 R Carbon's electronics. First it was the fan not turning on causing it to overheat which overheated my engine and caused coolant to spray out of the reservoir hose. Turned out it was the self resetting fuse, I just pulled it out and put in a normal 8 cent non resetting one.

FF about a year later and it was bike engine dying which turned out to be a fuse again. Replaced it and issue resolved.

FF like 8 months later and just yesterday I went to turn on bike and everything turned on fine but hitting ignition switch literally did nothing. Not even a solenoid click, it's as if I hadn't even pressed the ignition, bike not registering the button press. Battery was fine and charged, electronics all on, headlight on...no ignition (of course I also didn't have it in gear, etc).

Busted out my hex key, went into the fuse box and fiddled with the fuses and switched some relays around and it worked.

I feel like the bike itself has some issues with electronics and fuses blowing out from overheating. I noticed that some of the 10A fuses were blackened by the prongs sticking out of the red plastic casing as if it heated and started to melt the plastic casing around it. The fuse themselves didn't seem to trip, but that is definitely a sign that they're getting pretty hot. Hot enough to start to char the plastic.

Yesterday, I finally just pulled out the remaining 2 self resetting 10As and replaced them with the normal fuses. I also tossed out the 2 normal 10As that had some charring around the prong ends. Bike seems to be starting up OK again. I did also take it for a longish bike ride last weekend (3hrs), it was hot and did have fan turn on a lot, maybe it's just pulling too much energy from the fuses and effecting them?

First Time Poster, but what i did to drastically improve the behavior of my bike.

FTR DynoJet PV4 and Power Core Software
Tuner: DynoJet PV4 (Purchased from Fuel Moto ~$470 Aug 2025)
Vehicle: 2022 Indian FTR (base)
Mods: Stock, removed exhaust baffles

Goal: Adjusting Fuel Map to reduce jerky throttle, especially around 2800-3500 rpm

Preface:
The jerky non-linear feeling throttle on my 2022 FTR was really annoying me, so much that I considered getting a different bike. I did some research, and found that due to emissions, the stock tune is rather lean (as seen below). I ordered my PV4 from fuel moto as they would give me custom tunes from the datalog I would provide them. I did this about 3-4 times, and discovered that they really could just not get it right. I also wasn’t fond of sending my ECU out to Lloyds or other places as it was the middle of riding season. So I decided to try my hand. I’m no tuning expert, but I am rather mechanically inclined and I work as an automation engineer, so I thought there must be some way to fix my issues I was experiencing. Online, there really is no information that I could find that would tell me how to do what I’m about to show in this document. Hope this helps some of you.

1. Download the Power Core Software and the PV4 app from your app store of choice. Set up your account and do the usual things apps these days need.
   https://www.dynojet.com/downloads/power-core-software-download/https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dynojet.powervision&hl=en_US&pli=1
   https://apps.apple.com/us/app/powervision-4/id1559102553

https://preview.redd.it/sv2s4g6fb49h1.png?width=854&format=png&auto=webp&s=352cecea6a1775bc3c3aacdd1a599b62b53d0807

https://preview.redd.it/gb70oh6fb49h1.png?width=1622&format=png&auto=webp&s=dd7039bd66dffe588dc5d6ee4b6a601bda80d1bc

Like I said, not any kind of tuning wizard, but AI told me the following helpful points:

-Idle & Low-Speed Cruising (0-30% Throttle): 13.0:1 to 13.2:1. This is the sweet spot to eliminate the low-speed bucking and jerky throttle transitions.

-Mid-Range Acceleration (30-60% Throttle): 12.8:1 to 13.0:1. This provides smooth, predictable power delivery when pulling out of corners.

-Wide Open Throttle (60-100% Throttle): 12.5:1 to 12.6:1. This keeps the cylinders cool and maximizes peak horsepower safely. 

What to stay away from:
AFR < 11.0:1 → Can wash oil off of cylinder walls, foul spark plugs, and put gas into oil.
AFR > 14.7:1 → This is what you are trying to fix, leaner can’t be better

Pros:
-Lowers cylinder temps
-Reduced risk of engine knock
-Reduced stalling and twitchiness at low rpm

Stock Tune

5. Save a copy of your stock tune to the cloud, under a different name, and modify it, start with small adjustments and work your way up to a place where the bike feels better. This aims to keep fuel economy why still solving the issue. The user interface is pretty self explanatory, and doesn’t take long to get proficient. (similar to Microsoft Excel) Once you think you are happy, save it to the cloud, flash the tune with your smart phone and the pv4 and test it out.

Here is my adjusted tune. This got me to a place where I was much more happy with the bike.

Adjusted Tune

Hope this helps