r/InjectionMolding

Arburg, Krauss Maffei, or something else?

Looking into buying my first machine, used. Which brand would you recommend?

A machine that will last is obviously important, but so is ease of use.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

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u/Left-Cook-9487 — 11 hours ago

Any Knowledge of FirstMold in Zhongshan China

Someone suggested these guys to me for low-cost molds at low-mid volume. Does anyone have any knowledge of them? They only take bank transfer for payment as well which seems like a scam.

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u/Ok_Flamingo9699 — 21 hours ago
▲ 6 r/InjectionMolding+3 crossposts

Prototype Tooling for Overmolding/2K

Hi all,

I'm not an injection molder but have worked a fair bit on plastic component development over the last few years. We've always opened steel tools even for low-volume parts and even prototypes. It strikes me as very wasteful if the tool isn't being used to produce hundreds of thousands or millions of parts, and so I wanted to hear the community's thoughts about typical prototyping workflows.

I'm aware tools can be made in aluminium or even high-temp plastic, but for some reason our molding partner has always been reluctant to do this. Any thoughts as to why?

Something that may complicate it slightly is that we're looking to make overmolded or 2K molded parts which combine soft TPU with a rigid polymer component, and we're targeting a strong chemical bond (the parts will be used to seal a pressurised vessel, so the bond must be airtight even at pressure).

Any advice on how best to prototype this kind of part in a cost-effective way is much appreciated!

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u/gneisslab — 1 day ago

Two colors. 0.5mm gap. Zero bleed. How the hell do they paint this center cap?

Alright, I need some brains on this one.

I've got a Genesis G90 wheel center cap sitting on my desk right now. Part number 52960-T4000. Material is MPPO. It's a bicolor piece — charcoal metallic body, silver metallic spokes. Two completely different paint finishes on the same part.

The groove between the two colors? 0.5mm. That's it.

And the paint lines are perfect. Not good. Perfect. No bleed. No overlap. No witness marks. Nothing. Every piece comes off the line looking identical. This isn't a show piece — it's mass production.

So here's my question. How are they doing this?

been turning this thing over in my hands for days and here's what I've ruled in and out:

  1. Metallic masking jig — Spray the charcoal first over the whole part. Drop a precision metal mask over the charcoal zones. Spray the silver second coat over the exposed spoke areas. Pull the mask. Done. Makes sense in theory. But that groove is 0.5mm. You're running thousands of cycles. Paint builds up on that mask fast. Every layer of accumulation changes how the mask seats. How do you hold that tolerance at volume without the mask fit drifting? You'd need constant cleaning or rotation of masks. And even then — 0.5mm is brutal.
  2. Two-shot injection molding — Skip the paint entirely. Shoot two different colored resins in sequence. Clever idea. But I've looked at this part under good light. No second gate mark anywhere. And the mold for this spoke geometry in a two-shot setup would be an absolute nightmare. I don't think that's it.
  3. Something else? — Pad printing? Selective PVD? Some robotic micro-spray system I've never seen? Honestly, I don't know. That's why I'm here.

Here's what I do know. That 0.5mm groove is molded into the part on purpose. It's not decorative. It's functional. It acts as a physical dam between the two paint zones. Smart design. But even with a built-in groove acting as your boundary, holding that kind of precision across a multi-spoke 3D surface at production speed is no joke.

Specs for context:

- Part: Genesis G90 center cap
- OEM number: 52960-T4000
- Diameter: 163.5mm
- Material: MPPO (Modified Polyphenylene Oxide)
- Finish: Charcoal metallic + silver metallic

If you've worked on bicolor automotive trim — wheel caps, grille inserts, pillar garnish, anything with two paint zones on one plastic part — I want to hear from you. What's the actual production method here? What am I missing?

I've attached an image of the part. Heads up — the colors might look slightly different on your screen depending on lighting. In hand, the charcoal and silver are clearly distinct.

 

u/SlideOne4757 — 1 day ago

Resin Price Increases: North America (May 2026)

Hey guys,

Hope you're all doing well.

Just curious what sort of resin price increases you've seen so far? Particularly in the PA6/66 range. What % increase letters have you seen so far from your suppliers?

Thanks,

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u/percipitate — 1 day ago

Safety - Working at Height

How are you guys safely accessing the tops of machines for maintenance/ repair? We have a lot of machines that are very close together so MEWPs are not an option. Thanks

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u/PositiveNo7264 — 1 day ago
▲ 6 r/InjectionMolding+1 crossposts

What mold to use for a bellow?

Hello

I am pretty new to 3d printing and have never done any (injection)molding before. I would like to mold this with walls of between 2-5mm at home: https://imgur.com/a/l66RWwI

What shape/type of 3d printed mold would you suggest me to 3d print for this? I was thinking about some kind of recipient which has this shape: 1 larger and one a bit smaller (e.g. 2 mm smaller), so I can pour the product in between the two recipients. But then I have no clue about how you would unmould all of that to recuperate your actual bellow.

The shore hardness of this bellow will be somewhere between A20 (like a rubber band) and A60 (like a tire), don't know exactly yet. I will have to try a couple of things and see what suits best.

I know in some cases people build collapsible molds to be able to easily unmold afterwards. But I am not sure here what type of mold I could use and thus would be the best suited.

Any suggestions would be more than welcome!

EDIT: I am working with silicone, not plastic

u/blueMarker2910 — 2 days ago

First time into miniature models

A mold we designed with a local miniature model maker, he wanted to switch from 3D printing to injection molded parts.

It's kinda a small project, but was interesting as experience

u/oldmanout — 2 days ago

I want to replicate ag-4s/ soviet bakelite

small shop here that has only worked with polyurethane resin casting. I really want to replicate Soviet bakalite magazines, and furniture. I want to start by making magazines first has anyone had experience with phenolic thermoset resin molding. All the information is classified from the Soviet so the most I can work off is that they were using a 20 to 50 ton hydraulic press. with operating temperatures of the dye at 200 to 350°F . they would apparently lay sheets of fiberglass coated, and the resin let it slightly dry to where it is pliable as a sheet lay it in the female side of the die and press it anywhere from 2000 to 4300 psi. If you have any information or tips on the process, I need a baseline to start. any tips and tricks on how to do this as cheap as possible as I am a small shop would be greatly appreciated. I would be happy with doing as little as 10 a day up to 50 a day. yes I know the manufacturing risk and toxic hazards of the process. any mathematical formulas on how to calculate and achieve the psi range of the die or any other equations would be greatly appreciated. Also, by the way, they would apparently press them for 3 to 15 minutes.

u/BeginningRise4787 — 2 days ago

Plasticising temperature steadily increasing on Engel Victory 80ton

The program has been running for months fine until now, with all temperatures stable during the production cycle. We are now getting a Temp too high on Zone 3 of 4 ( 4 being the hopper, 1-nozzle). The barrel heater in zone 3 does not even show as being on during the production cycle, but the zone 3 heats up 2-3deg on every plasticising stroke, and just keeps on heating up.

The temperature is stable when in stand-by which makes me think the sensor is ok. Material is PEEK, temps are from 350-390deg C up through each zone.

Plasticising back pressure is on 6bar, now when reduced to 0, then the material stops heating up. Is this a mechanical problem? or program parameter that has changed?

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u/baronsamedi1982 — 2 days ago

Anyone here using collapsible cores regularly?

I’m curious how other people here feel about collapsible cores in injection molds.

We usually see them used for parts with internal undercuts where a normal core can’t release the part cleanly. In some cases they save space and avoid more complex side actions, but they also seem to bring more concerns about wear, maintenance, and long-term stability.

For people who use collapsible cores often:

  • What kind of parts are you mainly using them for?
  • Do you think they are worth it compared with sliders or other solutions?
  • What problems show up most in production: wear, sticking, flash, cleaning, or something else?
  • Any design tips that make them run more reliably?

Would be interested to hear real production experience, especially on cap molds, closures, or other high-volume tools.

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u/New-Position-1919 — 2 days ago

Advice on hydraulic tank

I'm cleaning out a new press we got and found this. I'm showing 3 different spots. I've vacuumed as much as I can out. But I want to play it safe. Just looking for the best way forward

u/Traditional_Loan_177 — 6 days ago

Processing problems/ Need Book suggestions

Im a supervisor at a plastics company on the east coast, ive done some Paulson courses after I got the promotion but ive not been given any other ways to further my processing knowledge. is there any good books that can help with this?

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u/Icho-Rid — 6 days ago

Scratching on parts

Hi everyone.

I work for a small mom and pop operation that mostly makes retainer cases. Recently we have been getting these scratches on the parts.

We sent out the both cavities to get polished but the scratches still persists, mainly on the bottom cavity. I tried lowering the shot size to see if it was from overpacking, but it didn't change anything and I honestly have no idea what I am doing.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thank you

EDIT: Thank you for all the suggestions, I am working with my boss with all these suggestions and he is getting in contact with our toolmaker to see what they think. I wish I was more knowledgeable about all this, but all I really do here is set molds and box parts from the machines. I will try to go through the ones I can and update when/if we figure out the cause.

u/DC_FORCE — 8 days ago

Silicone Injection Molding (gutter; overflow well)

Hi folks. Im new to the sub and looking for advice if any can be given.

Im a young industrial designer and for the last year Ive been designing, prototyping, and producing a small silicone product for our med device start up. One thing that is always annoying is the flash. My best method right now is to go along the edges of the part with a knife, but it can be time consuming and often it can leave unwanted marks, cuts, and etc, causing for an imperfect part.

My molds are 3d printed in FDM (though SLA is also on the table with inhibition precautions). For the last few months I have been trying to create a "gutter" or an "overflow well" (or valley) along the part perimeter to stop using the knife. Unfortunately the only benefit I have added to the mold design is being able to grab the flash easier. I know the nature of FDM printing also creates inconsistency to the mating faces and in turn the flashing itself. This is where I think SLA would work much better (though imperfectly) considering its resolution.

My leading concern is how to design this gutter or valley. Ive been looking and testing myself by offsetting my cylindrical gutter at .1-.2mm away from the cavity but nothing has really stuck yet. I have wondered if I should be putting it closer, or further; maybe even adding an intentional gap right next to the cavity. Im even considering a triangular geometry with one point converging at the cavity perimeter. None of these strategies are trivial in CAD so for the sake of time Im looking for advice.

Im not really even sure what questions to ask here so Im just going to post and hope to have a discussion with someone much more familiar with the process or maybe direct me to a more appropriate sub. Thanks so much for your time and I hope this isnt too difficult of a problem to discuss on reddit.

PS. My understanding of mold terminology is limited so please bear with me.

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u/justhuman1618 — 8 days ago

Hiring | Set-Up Technician | Injection Molding / Plastics | Gainesville, GA | 3rd Shift

🚨 Hiring: Set-Up Technician (Plastics Injection Molding) – Gainesville, GA | 3rd Shift

We’re currently looking for an experienced Set-Up Technician to join a fast-paced plastics manufacturing environment in Gainesville, Georgia.

🔧 Position: Set-Up Technician / Injection Molding Technician

📍 Location: Gainesville, GA (On-site)

🕒 Shift: 3rd Shift — 10:55 PM to 7:05 AM

💼 Full-time Opportunity

What we’re looking for:
✔ Experience with plastic injection molding machines
✔ Mold setup/changeovers
✔ Troubleshooting & machine adjustments
✔ Strong mechanical aptitude
✔ Experience using calipers, micrometers, gauges, etc.
✔ Manufacturing or high-volume production background
✔ Ability to read blueprints/schematics preferred

Preferred Experience:
• 3+ years in plastics manufacturing
• Process tech / mold tech / setup tech background
• Experience with troubleshooting molding equipment

Responsibilities include:
• Setting up injection molding machines
• Installing molds & optimizing processes
• Troubleshooting downtime issues
• Monitoring production quality
• Supporting production efficiency & safety standards

This is a great opportunity for someone who enjoys hands-on manufacturing work, machine troubleshooting, and working in a strong production environment.

📩 If interested, feel free to DM me with: 📞 470-284-4134

  • Resume
  • Current location
  • Years of injection molding experience
  • Shift availability

Referrals are also welcome!

u/No_Damage124 — 7 days ago

Desktop Injection Press

Hello,

I work in an R&D lab doing injection and blow molding. I've been tasked with finding a small desktop or portable injection molder that we can use for small part applications (i was not given any specifics on this, i assume "small" in this context would be a shot size of under 5-10g). Cycle time was unspecified, but i want to steer away from manual presses due mostly to lack of pressure control. We do injection process profiling, but i dont know what kind of control to realistically expect considering most units I'm seeing utilize a plunger vs screw.

We have in-house cnc and sla moldmaking capability, and i believe this will be used as a cheaper mold alternative to trial small parts rather than ordering molds for the larger presses. ("Why dont you just print the parts in the first place??", you may be wondering. Thats a GREAT question. I just work here.)

Cost and precision will be the primary factors here (of course they'll want the best quality control for the lowest price). We have working air in place already so pneumatic vs hydraulic aren't big factors. Space and noise aren't important either since this will go in an active shop environment, though im personally leaning towards a vertical unit for a few reasons. Materials will be fairly standard, likely PP and HDPE, but a unit with higher heat capabilities will keep options open for a variety of projects.

Are there models that anyone recommends, from experience working with them in a similar application, or machines/companies to avoid? Hopefully i didn't miss any details, but since i really wasn't given any criteria on what they're after i am keeping an open mind. I appreciate any feedback.

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u/Workcarnaps — 7 days ago

Lifting up the Arburg machine

I have an Arburg 305 producing spoons (38 spoons per cycle). The box under the machine gets filled very quickly (in around 30 minutes), so I have to be there every 30 minutes. I want to be able to let the machine work alone for at least a few hours.

My idea was to get an inclined conveyor belt. I talked to someone and he said and he said it's costy and it requires maintenance, so for me (im a beginner), it's better if i lift the machine up.

I like the idea, but my concern is, does that work? Does that damage the machine? Can you give me any advice?

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u/duartn — 9 days ago

Trouble fulfilling client's demands needs help from contacts or anything

I have a small manufacturing plant for manufacturing recycled plastic ( PP) granules, mainly from the scrap from the dealers all around make it grind , wash and then mix up with colors and all . Etc

We do use the white pp waste to produce granules -

But I do have a problem making a special color from a client ,

The shade is just similar to the ink of the ball blue pen .

I tried various pigments which I used before for the coloring .

But none of them work , ordered 2-3 different *high quality * pigments too but none do the job .

can any of you guys help me with some contacts or links or anything which can help me through this .

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u/Refrigerant134a — 8 days ago